Caring is sharing.

Only if you are daring! :ughdance:

I'm out of caring for today fellas...

Huh? So do you say the same thing to the people that change brake pads, exhuast, CAI, K&N filters, chips, coil overs, LED lights, rims etc etc? I don't get what the problem with taking a few screws out of a glovebox is..? :confused:

CAF1792 is too thick and probably too long! Look inside the motor housing and you will see a vent door. I believe this needs to swing open. Caf1792 based on my visual, will prevent the door from swinging and may break the motor/linkage.

Careful! Hopefully I am wrong on this.

Been working a lot and I am holding off on the installation.

i agree it is too thick, but there is a guide slot inside and it's below the vent door, the only thing it affects is the spacers on the filter door, thats y i mentioned to cut 4 groove into it so the door can be closed

anyone do before and after dyno on this cabin filter?

If you have the AC on, is it considered a cold air intake?
:icon17:

Did anyone ever get a 2010 part number?

Nope, but I put the STP filter in mine and fresh air is so nice :)

Ok, ok I will grab one this weekend. :tiphat:

2 tools that will help is a long shaft screw driver and a telescoping magnet tool. there are 2 screws that are kinda far back in yonder.

Just got my filter in the mail. I cheaped out and ordered one on eBay for $7.00. It's a Prime Guard. It says it's compatible with a Fram CF10132, Champ CAF1776 and a Purolator C35479. I hope it's the right one. Guess I'll find out soon enough!

Cabin air filter replacement installations are an extra $100-150 + the part ($30) when included with the "B" service on 3rd generation Acura TLs (via acurazine.com)

Instead, I spent half an hour researching the DIY pix, and 10 minutes doing the actual install. Used a Bosch activated-charcoal filter that cost $18, though I could have gone cheaper with a paper one for $10.

The process is the same as described in this thread for the Z. You simply need to drop the glove box door, which involves unscrewing a few screws and popping the plastic a little. Pull out the old filter and put in the new. Then bolt her back up!

Both Honda/Acura and Nissan rely on most owners' desire not to break something in the dash, which is why they're able to get away with the $150+ for a "professional" install.

Now, from my experience with 3rd and 4th generation TLs, and the 09 370Z: Do you actually need a cabin air filter? Or ... do you need to replace it every 25K?

In most parts of the country, the answer is "no!" If you live in dusty areas and your windows are up all the time with the a/c blasting, then it might be a good idea. (Think: AZ) But in the middle climates, it's essentially a useless add-on. Plenty of dirt and dust will come into the car through the doors and windows anyways.

Yes, a cabin air filter will collect dust (and possibly leaves) if installed. If it's not there, the dust will blow through the duct system into the car. If a leaf manages to get in, it will sound like a baseball card-in-the-bike-spokes as it rubs against the fan blower blades, until it breaks up.

But the amount of air that gets sucked in from the top of your hood for the a/c system is a lot less than you take in through your two engine air filters. If those filters aren't reeking filthy at 10,000 miles, you are better off not worrying about cabin air.

I have terrible seasonal allergies, and the pollen count has been ridiculous. Yes, air does come in through other passages, but it’s nice to be able to close the windows, turn on the ac and switch it to recycle. In a few minutes I can feel the difference.

absolutely! :tup: this was my case too. there's this one village that i drive through that has some kind of vegitation that aggrivates my eyes... i just close the window and run a/c. im back to normal within minutes. :p

So worth the $10 and the 15 minutes!!

anyone know if Nissan has the part number for the 2010 filter and if they sell replacement ones yet? I want to get one for my 2009 and that way i know it will fit perfectly

The STP filter listed in this thread fit mine perfectly!

All the ones listed earlier in this thread fit perfectly...

STP: CAF1766
Purolator: C35479
WIX: 24883
Fram: CF10157


This is a Lexus/Toyota equivalent P/N Toyota 87139-32010 (Same HVAC air handler used by Nissan)

alright cool!! well I guess i know what i'm doing this weekend

you only need like 15min, not a whole weekend. ;)

haha i know... i just have to go home to do it. My tools are there and I'm in college right now.

Just buy a screw driver. :tup:

think all you need is a screew driver.

helps if you have a long screw driver... and a telescoping magnet tool. but not needed.

thanks guys, but I need to go home anyways and do the wash/wax process too. There is no where to actually wash my car here unless i pay someone or take it to a drive through one...and i wont do that. 3 day weekend so might as well get some work done on the car.

Is there any consensus on which one of these filters are the best, or are they pretty much identical?

The STP I bought had a funny smell for a few hours and I switched over to a charcoal filter - either Wix 24905 or Napa 4905.

Thanks man! Damn I didn't know about this thread until I started to smell awful air coming from the vent .

I'm doing this project now, the Napa 4905 only fills about half the slot, is that right? It seems like a tight fit closing up the filter box as the little plastic face that clips on has four little feet that hit the filter as I'm trying to close it.

DIY Guide?

You need to hold it up as you close the door......>

http://images50.fotki.com/v1523/phot...MG_2286-vi.jpg

Okay I'm all done. I'm mildly retarded so it took about an hour. The issues I had were that the Napa filter (made in china) had all four corners that were not flush so it was nearly impossible to close the filter door. I simply trimmed the corners with some sharp scissors and and then it closed fine. Once I looked in there with a flashlight it was obvious that the filter is held above the fan with those little feet in the front and back.

The only other issue I has was reattaching the little cable that puts tension on the glove box door. All done now with no broken parts!

Yeah I finally figured that once I looked in there with a flashlight. :tup:

So for those with a 2010 model this is exactly the same procedure?

Yes, but the 2010 already has the filter installed from the factory..

Anyone have trouble with the recirculate/fresh air motor after this mod? Mine is clicking in recirculation mode, curious to see if I screwed up something during the install

I did the install in my garage while it was raining. I'll fire it up tomorrow and make sure there aren't any issues. I'd assume that your filter is not in the housing correctly and when the internals try and move the filter is in the way.

Anyone here used the OEM filter for the 2010?

And how much are they? I'd bet they are at least $40.