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Door/Hatch buttons stopped working after removing door panel

I want to post the solution in case this happens to somebody else. I replaced my door speakers and added sound deadening to the doors, so I had to remove

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Old 10-12-2017, 10:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Door/Hatch buttons stopped working after removing door panel

I want to post the solution in case this happens to somebody else.

I replaced my door speakers and added sound deadening to the doors, so I had to remove the door panels. After I put everything back together I found out I did not have to reset the window position sensors so it was a pretty uneventful procedure, or so I thought.

I tried opening the rear hatch a few days later by pressing the release button (the one above the license plate on the right side) and nothing happened, so I pressed the key fob unlock button, then pressed the release button and this time it worked. Thought it was a fluke and carried on.

Next day it was the same, hatch won't open when the doors were locked. I pressed the unlock button (the one above the license plate on the left side), heard a beep, then pressed release and the hatch popped open. I found this annoying but still was not worried.

Later I decided to test the keyless entry and surprise, the doors didn't unlock by pressing the button (key fob in hand); went to the hatch, pressed the release button and nothing; that's is when I heard a loud cha-ching sound coming from my wallet.

Bear in mind I have a 2014 Base Sport bone stock --except for the new speakers-- with less than 25,000 miles, and I do baby the car to death. Before freaking out it occurred to me that maybe unplugging the door's harness from the panel could be related to this malfunction and a reset of some sort would be required. Also thought the aluminum in the sound deadening material I used could be interfering with the keyless operation but then I read the antennas are located around the rear side window, so this didn't seem to be a problem.

Searched for an answer and found a similar issue on this site, but the thread was from 2011 and already closed without resolution.

So long story short, it's fixed. How it got fixed is still a little bit of a mystery but I'm going to try to describe what I did.

I changed the fob's batteries, nothing; fob was working fine from very far away but just in case it wouldn't hurt.

So went back to the hatch; pressed release, nothing; pressed unlock, heard a beep, pressed release, hatch opened. Closed hatch, locked the car with my remote, pressed the release button again, nothing.

Went to the passenger side door, pressed the unlock button, nothing; went to the hatch and pressed the release, nothing; went to the drivers door and pressed the unlock button, nothing; went back to the hatch and pressed the unlock button and I could have sworn I heard 2 beeps (but it could have been 1). pressed the release button and this time the hatch opened. Locked the doors with my remote and went to the passenger side door, pressed the unlock button and it worked, then went to the drivers side and tested the unlock button, it worked too. The keyless entry was enabled again.

So somehow I managed to disable keyless entry when removed the door panels, and was able to reset it by pressing a combination of external lock/unlock buttons; I don't know if the order matters but I saved myself from going to the dealership.

If this accidentally happens to you, try to emulate my lucky discovery before driving to the dealership. I have not tested the second key fob yet so I'm not sure if I'll have to repeat it or not.

If there is a more accurate way to reset or re-enable the keyless entry system please share.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Wow!

I have the same year/options! and about to add some sound deadening.

Thanks for posting!

Can you please comment as to the effectiveness of the sound deadening? I'm debating whether I should tackle the doors first, or the area directly behind the seats and then rear hatch area.

My thought process: $200 in sound deadening is still cheaper than $20,000 for the bmw/audi coupes!
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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... I'm debating whether I should tackle the doors first, or the area directly behind the seats and then rear hatch area. ...
For most cars, the wheel wells make the most noise. I'd start there. YMMV

I did the rear area from the back to just in front of the wheel wells. Damped most of the annoying noise.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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For most cars, the wheel wells make the most noise. I'd start there. YMMV

I did the rear area from the back to just in front of the wheel wells. Damped most of the annoying noise.
Perfect! Will see what I can tackle this afternoon!
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quieter yes, a little bit; quiet, nope. Rear wheel wells will be next, I'll finish it when the car is in storage during the winter.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quieter yes, a little bit; quiet, nope. Rear wheel wells will be next, I'll finish it when the car is in storage during the winter.
I ordered 15 sq' of the GT MAT quadro pro...

Just finished the rear trunk area, with a focus on the back panel and especially the shock towers:



Debating if I should do the doors next, or if I should do that small area directly behind the seats where people add aftermarket amps?

ALSO: Has anyone noticed the areas you can barely fit your hands into between the shock towers and the fenders? I'm wondering if there's some type of expanding foam sound deadener that could go in there, would it be worth it, and would it smell up the car forever? VS. Buying that toxic smelly stuff and taking the wheels off and painting outside in the wheel well areas?
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