Interior Plastic/Door Scratch Question - HELP!

JARblue

Heat gun method is probably your best option, but it is also the best possibility to cause unrepairable damage. It is best left to an experienced hand

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ChaseZ

No argument there.

I had a thought though that there must be some sort of textured plastic coating one can get, I know SEM makes a lot of those kind of products. Gale must use something like then when finishing the A pillar gauge pods.

Not that I'm suggesting we are spray a coating on our plastic bits of course.

Jayhovah

Gale uses SEM Texture black paint.

For my gauge pod I used Rustoleum texture black... very similar look.

For the OP though - the texture is more of a leather-look texture so he would have to sand and paint the whole section for it to look right... then paint the other side to match.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
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ltullos

Here's your source for interior plastic graining pads. I bought a set to try to repair some damage on on the driver's door window ledge. I got it too hot and just created more damage and ended up replacing the full door shell for about $480. It would have driven me nuts otherwise.

need4speed255

Someone posted on the forum a while back about repairing these scratches with heat. I think it was sometime last year. I believe it was the center console area that they repaired and in the photos provided it looked like a success. I would start with a hair dryer before using a heat gun.

Search on the forum and you should find it. You may find something on Youtube as well.

Kenwoodturbo

+1 for heat gun. The one I have is adjustable heat setting and a small tip nozzle. Basically as stated above start low and bring heat up. It's hard to describe without pics, but essentially when scratched it will look "white" where scratch is when temp is just hot enough the white section will start to sort of gloss back over to black.

I did this on a friends 370z and it worked fine.. I've done the same on many other cars. They all came out great when I started low and gently raised temps. The ones I have messed up in the past "there were a few due to learning curve" were due to me jacking the heat up and flashing the area around the fix. Those ended up requiring dye/paint afterwards to match properly due to discoloring around the area repaired.