Here we go again...

fuct · 06-25-2014, 08:49 AM

how do we block comments from certain people?

quickboat · 06-29-2014, 05:29 PM

So then what is the best recommendation for the first oil change to prevent this oil burning? I have around 1400 miles now and figured I would change it at 3000mi. Is that good? Does not the factory put additives to the break in oil?

jwick · 06-29-2014, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quickboat

So then what is the best recommendation for the first oil change? I have around 1400 miles now and figured I would change it at 3000mi. Is that good? Does not the factory put additives to the break in oil?

factory doesn't put additives in. if you are past 1000 and don't plan to change now just go to synthetic at the first oil change

jrb55gh · 07-02-2014, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

For reference,

The Nissan Synthetic Ester Oil that came in the car with less than 3K miles with actually 11 months in the pan was already out of spec for viscosity. I would like to see an oil analysis of a 10k mile oil. And if I wanted to really not fork over money to the oil fat cats I would not have gotten a car that runs on PREMIUM GAS.

Based on the results of your first oil anaysis it is no wonder that Nissan recommends changing the Nissan ester oil frequently. What engine oil did you use after that first oil analysis?

Mitco39 · 07-02-2014, 09:59 AM

My 40th was consuming about a quart every 1000miles or so. I almost ran it right out just like the OP once. I threw a BP kit on it and its now sitting at about 25000miles and doesnt burn a drop anymore.

Moral of the story, burning oil go boosted. The added air in the combustion chamber helps keep the oil from pushing by the rings

.

lol. Goodluck OP with your repair. Your bound to find a good engine sooner or later.

2011 Nismo#91 · 07-03-2014, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrb55gh

Based on the results of your first oil anaysis it is no wonder that Nissan recommends changing the Nissan ester oil frequently. What engine oil did you use after that first oil analysis?

I have been using Redline 5W-30 since I bought the car. Oh and as the miles have been racking up less and less makeup oil is needed.

thompsontechs · 07-03-2014, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuct

how do we block comments from certain people?

Click on UserCP at the top left and then scroll until you see, "Edit Ignore List" Then cut and paste the username you want to ignore in there and save it. You will not see any of that persons posts

from then on.

JT

wsarver · 07-03-2014, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

My 40th was consuming about a quart every 1000miles or so. I almost ran it right out just like the OP once. I threw a BP kit on it and its now sitting at about 25000miles and doesnt burn a drop anymore.

Moral of the story, burning oil go boosted. The added air in the combustion chamber helps keep the oil from pushing by the rings

.

lol. Goodluck OP with your repair. Your bound to find a good engine sooner or later.

I like how you think good sir. If only it fit my wallet! Boost goes on the calendar when this puppy's paid off.

RonRizz · 07-07-2014, 08:29 AM

So dealer is in process of teardown, and calls to tell me my clutch disc and flywheel look pretty bad, and recommend replacement. I'm stunned. 26k??? I've driven manual cars all my life, never replaced a clutch so soon. I took a vehicle to the scrapyard from new with 175k on it, original clutch.
Am I being hosed here? $1800 without labor.

Super Werty · 07-07-2014, 08:41 AM

go look at it, post up a picture. dont rely solely on their word

2011 Nismo#91 · 07-07-2014, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonRizz

So dealer is in process of teardown, and calls to tell me my clutch disc and flywheel look pretty bad, and recommend replacement. I'm stunned. 26k??? I've driven manual cars all my life, never replaced a clutch so soon. I took a vehicle to the scrapyard from new with 175k on it, original clutch.
Am I being hosed here? $1800 without labor.

Probably, this car isn't know for having a weak clutch (besides the slave cylinder). But without seeing it first hand I can't say if it really needs to be replaced or not. Ask them this, :"if it is failing after 26k why pay to replace it out of your own pocket with the same garbage terrible clutch that will fail again in another 26k?"

Fountainhead · 07-07-2014, 09:43 AM

I agree, I guess it's all that power? My Pinto had 130K on it when I rebuilt the engine to combat oil puff on startup and fix the leaks on front and rear main seals staining the street/driveway where I parked. Clutch looked barely worn, and you KNOW it wasn't expensive to begin with. I only changed the thrust bearing because my old man recommended it. Little 1.9 liter couldn't hurt that clutch no matter what. I beat the s**t out of that poor car too, ran it on recycled auto zone type oil it's entire life.

I'm at a loss to recommend the next step, DevPoint deals with Nissan quite a lot, he can recommend a good next step.

RonRizz · 07-07-2014, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

go look at it, post up a picture. dont rely solely on their word

They asked.me to stop and look at it. Told me it had "hot spots" on it, and would likely need replaced in near future. Doing it now would save me on labor, since its already out.. I told them I never had it slip, or shudder, and to put it back in the car. I'll deal with it later if the need arises. (Like 60 or 70k down the road). And that could be YEARS from now. I hope.

Fountainhead · 07-07-2014, 10:01 AM

I would still go by there and look at it RonRizz. Curiousity would be killing me.

2011 Nismo#91 · 07-07-2014, 10:39 AM

I'd rather have them give you a new slave cylinder while they're in there rather then a new clutch.

06-29-2014, 05:29 PM	#32 (permalink)
quickboat Base Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: ohio Posts: 65 Drives: '14 370Z TSN M6 Rep Power: 12	So then what is the best recommendation for the first oil change to prevent this oil burning? I have around 1400 miles now and figured I would change it at 3000mi. Is that good? Does not the factory put additives to the break in oil? Last edited by quickboat; 06-29-2014 at 05:33 PM.

07-02-2014, 09:59 AM	#35 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 133	My 40th was consuming about a quart every 1000miles or so. I almost ran it right out just like the OP once. I threw a BP kit on it and its now sitting at about 25000miles and doesnt burn a drop anymore. Moral of the story, burning oil go boosted. The added air in the combustion chamber helps keep the oil from pushing by the rings . lol. Goodluck OP with your repair. Your bound to find a good engine sooner or later. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

07-07-2014, 08:29 AM	#39 (permalink)
RonRizz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Pine grove, Pa Posts: 2,136 Drives: 2 feet, 3 pedals Rep Power: 6776	So dealer is in process of teardown, and calls to tell me my clutch disc and flywheel look pretty bad, and recommend replacement. I'm stunned. 26k??? I've driven manual cars all my life, never replaced a clutch so soon. I took a vehicle to the scrapyard from new with 175k on it, original clutch. Am I being hosed here? $1800 without labor. __________________ P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

07-07-2014, 08:41 AM	#40 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 14	go look at it, post up a picture. dont rely solely on their word __________________ The Build

07-07-2014, 09:43 AM	#42 (permalink)
Fountainhead Track Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: FL Posts: 834 Drives: 2019 Civic Type R Rep Power: 15	I agree, I guess it's all that power? My Pinto had 130K on it when I rebuilt the engine to combat oil puff on startup and fix the leaks on front and rear main seals staining the street/driveway where I parked. Clutch looked barely worn, and you KNOW it wasn't expensive to begin with. I only changed the thrust bearing because my old man recommended it. Little 1.9 liter couldn't hurt that clutch no matter what. I beat the s*t out of that poor car too, ran it on recycled auto zone type oil it's entire life. I'm at a loss to recommend the next step, DevPoint deals with Nissan quite a lot, he can recommend a good next step. Last edited by Fountainhead; 07-07-2014 at 09:45 AM.*

06-25-2014, 08:49 AM	#31 (permalink)
fuct A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sugar Land Posts: 3,692 Drives: 97' Ranger :) Rep Power: 25	how do we block comments from certain people?

07-07-2014, 10:01 AM	#44 (permalink)
Fountainhead Track Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: FL Posts: 834 Drives: 2019 Civic Type R Rep Power: 15	I would still go by there and look at it RonRizz. Curiousity would be killing me.

07-07-2014, 10:39 AM	#45 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,413 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570	I'd rather have them give you a new slave cylinder while they're in there rather then a new clutch.