Car Wont Start, Throttle Body Codes

Mitco39

Hey Guys,

I have been doing some work on my car and upon going to fire it up it would not start and just sputter and die. This is what I did on the car (I drove it into the garage just fine with no issues).

- Took off the oil pan to get a bung welded to it for a oil temp sensor
- Installed a spacer plate to add a fuel gauge to the car
- Ran a new Wideband 02 cable down to the bung on my turbo kit (the old one melted on the exhaust late last fall)
- Installed oil temp sensor


None of the work I did on the engine was anywhere near the throttle bodies yet when I went to start the car it would sputter and die, or not catch at all. Uprev is pulling 2 codes;

P2119 Electric Throttle Actuator
P2135 Throttle Position Sensor

I had a similar issue when I installed my injectors and I just forgot to plug in one of the plugs on the VB, however this time this is not the case. These two particular codes point towards bank 1 (passenger VB).

I have visually checked over every connection incase something came loose. I find it weird that these two particular codes point towards two different circuits in the throttle body. Ive looked through the FSM and tried a relearn just to see if that would solve it, with no luck.

Ive logged the voltages in the TB in uprev and there is a clear difference between bank 1 and bank 2.

Just looking for any suggestions that you guys may have, I could understand an issue like this if I had everything apart but I did not touch much at all on the car and I drove it into the garage with absolutely no issues.

Its a weird one.

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SouthArk370Z

I haven't the foggiest idea what could be wrong (other than a bad TB) but kudos for doing your homework. I hope someone else will be able to help you out soon.

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Wonka2581

Sub'd Good luck

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Mitco39

So I took the Bank one TB and plugged it into the Bank 2 plug. Now Bank 2 is throwing the same code as bank 1 was, so by process of elimination id say TB2 is toast.

So its looking like it was just a crazy coincidence that the TB crapped the bed at the same time I decided to do some small jobs on the car. Going to call Nissan in the morning and see how much one of these are going to cost me.

Ill update the thread with the outcome. Hopefully they have one in stock and I can finish doing all this work to the car.

Thanks guys!

Mitch

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2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

1slow370

well you cant do that because throttle one and two are wired differently so if you swap them of course they will throw codes you can only use a left on a left and a right on a right

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Mitco39

Yeah your right I see that now looking through the FSM.

Reguardless TB1 at 0TPS was reading on uprev 1.3 and 0.7 Volts. TB2 at 0TPS was running 0.7 and 0.7.

TB2's numbers stayed identical throughout the sweep of the TB (I manually moved the TB) Whereas TB1's did not, they did however come closer together at wide open.

Not sure what exatly Uprev is logging as it says in the FSM that one throttle position potentiometer goes from 0-5volts during the opening of the TB, and the other goes from 5-0 volts. Either way there are differences between the two that IMO should not be there.

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2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

1slow370

could be a wire issue though you could have a corroded terminial or wire that has affected it or it could just be blown, might want to check the harness before you buy a new throttle cause once you buy it you cant return it even if it isn't the problem. nissan is a bitch with electrical returns once you open the bag its yours

also


nissan electronics

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Jordo!

Possible loss of fuel pressure at rail? I would expect misfire codes, but other than a damaged wire or loose connector that's the only thing that leaps to mind.

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Mitco39

I forgot to mention one crucial thing that I thought about during my sleep last night.

I am in the process of switching over from my EVC5 to EVC6, I switched out the body of the boost controller (the one under the hood) to the EVC and hooked it up. I was going to move the car and finish gutting everything inside the car and switching out the displays.

It turns out that the if EVC6 motor plugged into the EVC5 (again I knew there would be an error but I knew I was just moving it around the shop so I got the engine bay good to go to fire it up and move it) it will short out the TPS sensor.

I plugged back in the EVC5 and it fired right up. I totally forgot to even mention it last night. So if anyone ever has the same issue remember that the boost controllers can easily ground out the circuit.

Thanks for your help guys, sorry I forgot to even mention this, I am sure you guys could have solved it last night for me.

Mitch

__________________
2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html