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What is your oil pressure after oil cooler install?

Yea this nissan dealer is amazing, also I have stock engine so no reason my powertrain warranty wouldn't be good.

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Old 07-26-2013, 11:32 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Yea this nissan dealer is amazing, also I have stock engine so no reason my powertrain warranty wouldn't be good.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:59 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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So my oil pressure is now higher than it was before, at 80C and idle, it sits at 30-33 psi. This is with a Fram oil filter and Mobil 1 5w30. This leads me to believe there may have been a small leak ever since I put the oil pressure gauge in and it just recently got bigger. Another good reason to let your engine and oil heat up before driving and let the oil heat ALL the way up before driving it hard.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:14 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Im 10psi at idle.
Around 30-35psi cruising at temp.
Around 60psi at 70mph in 6th
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Oil is 5w40 rotella T6 and filter is puralator gold
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:27 PM   #36 (permalink)
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This reading ALL depends on where in the oil system you put your sensors.

My pressure on the oil cooler return line is:

20 stopped idle 30-40 traffic idle 100running hard

Local shops confirmed thats about normal..
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:04 PM   #37 (permalink)
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should i get the aem 100 psi or 150 psi oil pressure gauge? still debating.. i read some goes over 100psi and some doesnt with the 370z...
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:07 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I have Defi gauges. And it really helps out when you use proprely formed sentences and stuff. I am surprised that we haven't seen leet speak on the forum yet. This place is starting to look like Facebook.

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Old 05-03-2014, 04:43 PM   #39 (permalink)
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i haven't seen a rear timing chain cover before but if my guess is right, the noise was probably your CVTC (variable valve timing) actuator or solenoid due to insufficient oil pressure. The change in engine response and behaviour is a direct result. It's a metallic ticking noise and it's pretty much as you described - litle valves rattling.

Would running 0w40 have contributed to blowing the gasket since it's a bit thicker when at operating temp? Thicker oil can create higher pressure. But a lot of folks are running 0w40 and 5w40 with no issue.... I'm running 5w40 and it's restored my CVTC functionality at 4k+ rpm. I might need new solenoids in the future. Prior to this oil change, i was using genuine Nissan full synthetic 5w30 oil.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:59 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Mine is about 25 psi at idle with 5w40 and it uses far less oil than 5w30.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:12 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roplusbee View Post
I have Defi gauges. And it really helps out when you use proprely formed sentences and stuff. I am surprised that we haven't seen leet speak on the forum yet. This place is starting to look like Facebook.

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Old 06-04-2014, 03:34 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I'll refrain from posting in "l33t speek" on this 1.

oil: Amsoil 5W-30
oil filter: Napa gold / Wix 57356XP
oil cooler: Nissan Motorsports
gauge: Defi-Link meter BF oil pressure
sensor location: where the oil switch use to screw into the "oil pan upper"

My oil idiot switch is gone. I never bothered teeing to the pressure sensor. Disconnecting the oil idiot switch doesn't cause the red oil pressure idiot light to come on. Once my oil is up to 80°C I have the following readings:

idle: 150 kPa
cruise: ~580 kPa (My gearing keeps me @ ~3,100 RPM or >)
WOT: 640 kPa
cold start: 690 kPa
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:14 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I'm around 25-30 PSI at idle and between 80-100 when running (usually on the higher end if running fast).
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:47 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Can an oil pressure sensor be placed in a oil pan tap?
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:53 PM   #45 (permalink)
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nah it wouldnt work there. there's hardly any pressure there otherwise your dipstick would shoot out all the time.

You need to tee off the oil pressure switch port or somewhere after the oil pump
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