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My SES light came on on my 370Z Roadster over the weekend. Only had 1,090 miles on it. Bought it back in January of this year. Took it to the
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: California
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Drives: 2010 370Z Roadster
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My SES light came on on my 370Z Roadster over the weekend. Only had 1,090 miles on it. Bought it back in January of this year. Took it to the dealership this morning and, apparently, a small evap leak was discovered. So, now just waiting to see what's happening. Luckily, still under warranty but....still sucks.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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Cause of problem...and I am quoting the invoice..."Found evap code P0456. Evap small leak. Pinpoint test found vent control valve sticking cause of concern. Replace control valve and rechk operation- okay at this time".
Again, glad it is still under warrant. Repairs were completed in the morning and have the car back already. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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this is the exact answer I was looking for ![]() vent control valve... is that the same as the solenoid? I figured, I'll just order the part and just install it without the ceremonial diagnostics. ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) |
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wtf? how could a brand new car like that have issues already? I'm modded to the hilt and only SES I got was because my HFC's were tripping my 02's, stuffed some steel wool in those bitches and havent got the light since.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Guys,
I got the P0456 bug and its getting annoying. Dealer insists its the gas cap, but going to bring it in anyway. Can you guys talk about what you/dealer finally did to fix? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Graybullet, My issue was the gas cap. It took a lot of toying around, but we discovered that despite my twisting the hell out of the cap to tighten it the damn thing would just pop right off. On the other hand, the technician would tighten it simply and it would seal and stay on properly. It was all a matter of luck. I think the cap has two sets of threads so it could start to engage either at 0 degrees or 180 degrees. One way was just fine. One way was bad. That may not be it exactly but I proved to the dealership's satisfaction that there was a flakey issue with the cap that prevented it from sealing properly every time. They replaced the cap and it has never been an issue since then. Insist on a new cap and I bet your issue goes away.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Mine threw a "service engine soon" light after some car audio electronics work done on it, and this is what I did to clear it:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON (DO NOT depress clutch while you're doing this) and wait 3 seconds. Repeat #2 procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds: 2. Fully depress then release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 seconds. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it down for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). Turn ignition switch to OFF position Turn ignition switch to ON position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. Rep me if this works for you as it did for me. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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You can depress the accelerator pedal to erase codes and reset ECM ANYTIME during the codes being flashed out. So, this is much more than just a way to reset the ECM and SES light. This is a tricky thing to do and that 7 seconds is VERY difficult to time exactly right. Need a stopwach for sure with this because it is a VERY EXACT process with timing it. Usually takes me 3 or 4 tries to get it right. Turn ignition off for ~10 seconds between tries. NOW...for the next trick. At the END of the 7 seconds, you floor the gas pedal and it SHOULD start flashing codes after 10 seconds if you've done it correctly. If you keep the acc pedal to the floor after it starts flashing and just keep it there for about 10 seconds after it starts flashing, the SES light will stop flashing and light up solid. IF you start the car within 3 seconds, that is the idle-air volume relearn. Any kind of intake mods will require you to do this. To do this, the engine must be at operating temp, ALL accessories OFF, steering wheel pointed straight ahead, vehicle in neutral and no fault codes stored. Just let the engine idle for 2 or 3 minutes then race the engine a few times and verify that it falls smoothly back to a normal idle speed. DONE. Late, Trav |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Ok, I just installed HFCs and cat back exhaust. I did disconnect the negative battery terminal because the directions stated to. Now I have a Service Engine Soon light when the car is running. I tried the above meathod to clear the SES light with no luck. Will removing the negative battery terminal for a minute or two clear the code like the gas pedal meathod? If so, how long should I keep the negative terminal disconnected for before I reconnect it? Thanks!
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#13 (permalink) |
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Usually, that just clears the light temporarily. If it's an actual mechanical issue type code, then it'll just pop back up after 50 miles or so.
It's best to actually get the code read, so you know what the issue is before resetting it off the bat. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Guess they didnt resolve this in the '10s. I have 1800 miles on my car and the SES light came on. Evap leak.
They said gas cap and sent me on my way, it came back on 2 hours later. Now I have to drop it off on Tuesday and get a loaner cause they said the smoke test can't be done until the engine is cold. Not happy. |
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