Oil Coolers and Over cooling

cdoxp800 · 12-20-2011, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattP725

Not true... oil coolers (at least in the US) are aftermarket and there is no temp sensor anywhere inline on our cars (unless someone added one).

This should be the temp at the bottom of the block or oil rail and has nothing to do with the returning oil.

I never said it was "on" the return line from the oil cooler. I said

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdoxp800

You guys do realize that the oil Temp you see on your gauge is the Oil Temp of the oil temp returning to the Pan correct. This is the Temp coming from the return of the Oil cooler and not the Temp of the oil in the engine.

The FACTORY (OEM) sensor reads this Temp on the block on the return path to the oil pan. As seen in the attached Pic. Any more questions?

Jordo! · 12-20-2011, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdoxp800

I never said it was "on" the return line from the oil cooler. I said

The FACTORY (OEM) sensor reads this Temp on the block on the return path to the oil pan. As seen in the attached Pic. Any more questions?

So what's a likely temp differential then?

Rooskey · 12-20-2011, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdoxp800

I never said it was "on" the return line from the oil cooler. I said

The FACTORY (OEM) sensor reads this Temp on the block on the return path to the oil pan. As seen in the attached Pic. Any more questions?

Yea. Do you have an oil flow chart of the previous pick you posted. I already have a way to override the limp mode with the computer. The reason I ask is cause I have never heard of such a major problem on a car, and also have never heard of someone trashing a motor because of this situation. Unless someone proves otherwise I think this oil temp thing is nothing more than having a stupid guage on the dash. IF anyone has trashed an engine due to this please chime in. Thanks... (I know there are alot of debates on this subject and im not trying to start crap. Im just looking for facts on the situation)

ImportConvert · 12-29-2011, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rooskey

Yea. Do you have an oil flow chart of the previous pick you posted. I already have a way to override the limp mode with the computer. The reason I ask is cause I have never heard of such a major problem on a car, and also have never heard of someone trashing a motor because of this situation. Unless someone proves otherwise I think this oil temp thing is nothing more than having a stupid guage on the dash. IF anyone has trashed an engine due to this please chime in. Thanks... (I know there are alot of debates on this subject and im not trying to start crap. Im just looking for facts on the situation)

You do realize the limp mode serves a purpose, yes? It took time to program, and time means money, and no corporation spends money without profit in mind, and what profit is there to be made with a limp mode unless warranty work were avoided by having it...

phunk · 12-21-2011, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdoxp800

I never said it was "on" the return line from the oil cooler. I said

The FACTORY (OEM) sensor reads this Temp on the block on the return path to the oil pan. As seen in the attached Pic. Any more questions?

The oil temperature sensor is in the pressure channels just off the oil filter. It is measuring oil temp of the oil that is entering the pressurized lubrication passages in the engine.

The only thing I cannot answer on the VHR specifically is if it is before or after the oil filter, because I have not taken the upper pan off and followed the oil passages in the upper pan casting. If it is before the oil filter, meaning just inline after the pump, then we are not able to see the immediate effects of the oil after leaving our aftermarket coolers. If it is after the oil filter, then we are seeing the immediate effects of our added coolers. I have an extra VHR engine sitting in my garage to use for my built engine project, sometime in the next few weeks when I take it apart to begin the build I can report back the answer to this.

But regardless of all that, the oil temperature sensor is definitely in the pressure channels after the pump.

Also, engines do not really have much of a return path for oil. The only passages for it are positioned near the cylinder head studs so that the oil can leave the cylinder heads and just drip back into the open crankcase down the sides. The upper oil pan itself, does not have any oil return passages.

Refer to service manual page LU-7. There you will read it instructing you to test engine oil pressure by removing the oil temp sensor and installing the nissan oil pressure test gauge hose. This is the only evidence I have at the moment of what I am saying... but it is clear evidence.

MattP725 · 12-21-2011, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdoxp800

I never said it was "on" the return line from the oil cooler. I said

The FACTORY (OEM) sensor reads this Temp on the block on the return path to the oil pan. As seen in the attached Pic. Any more questions?

I think your wording is off... this isn't oil coming back to the pan, it is oil leaving the pan to the block.

All in all I wouldn't see this being a major issue anyhow... once the oil is at operating temperature, the oil in the pan/block/cooler are eventually going to meet some sort of equilibrium. Even without a cooler you have to beat on it pretty heavily to get an immediate and sharp climb in oil temperature and that is generally only 10-20 degrees.

cdoxp800 · 12-21-2011, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattP725

I think your wording is off... this isn't oil coming back to the pan, it is oil leaving the pan to the block.

All in all I wouldn't see this being a major issue anyhow... once the oil is at operating temperature, the oil in the pan/block/cooler are eventually going to meet some sort of equilibrium. Even without a cooler you have to beat on it pretty heavily to get an immediate and sharp climb in oil temperature and that is generally only 10-20 degrees.

Opps, correct. Been a little sick.

DLSTR · 12-29-2011, 03:02 PM

The cover in the DIY by Speafish is so easy its not even funny. I did mine in 15 mins. Do it and be done with it. My temps are 180-200 now. Im in Germany and with it cooling off before the cover was on, I was seeing 160 for the oil temps.

ZForce · 01-01-2012, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLSTR

The cover in the DIY by Spearfish is so easy its not even funny. I did mine in 15 mins. Do it and be done with it. My temps are 180-200 now. Im in Germany and with it cooling off before the cover was on, I was seeing 160 for the oil temps.

Glad the DIY link helped.

I plan on installing my 25r oil cooler in the next few weeks and will testig out the correct plate coverage for ambient temps in the mid 30's plus. Will be starting with covering 80% of the cooler and go from there. Ideal dash gauge temps will be 170-190 with actual temps being 190-210.

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12-29-2011, 03:02 PM	#8 (permalink)
DLSTR A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: Süd Germany Posts: 2,462 Drives: 21Supra 2.0/22 M240i Rep Power: 21269	The cover in the DIY by Speafish is so easy its not even funny. I did mine in 15 mins. Do it and be done with it. My temps are 180-200 now. Im in Germany and with it cooling off before the cover was on, I was seeing 160 for the oil temps.