KillerBee's been runnin on 2.5.... wtf?

wstar · 02-27-2012, 04:36 PM

Most of everything you and Mossy are talking about is just standard oil myths, don't sweat it. M1 EP is a very good synthetic, and any good synthetic is probably *better* for the car than the dino/ester mix in Nissan Ester oil. You can switch brands anytime you want. If you want to be anal about it, you can do a very short change interval when you first switch.

Personally, I run Motul 300V, and some others use Redline's Synthetic, both of which are also good synthetics and happen to contain significant ester content. I suspect the 300V formulation is a really ideal oil for our engine, but it comes with caveats: on top of being pricey per quart to begin with, it doesn't deal well with long change intervals and/or high humidity, making it even more expensive to use it properly (it's more hygroscopic than competitors, meaning it will suck humidity out of the air and ruin itself via acidification over time faster than competitors). It's totally not worth the $$ in general, especially on a street-mostly car, but I use it anyways.

02-27-2012, 04:36 PM	#14 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	Most of everything you and Mossy are talking about is just standard oil myths, don't sweat it. M1 EP is a very good synthetic, and any good synthetic is probably better for the car than the dino/ester mix in Nissan Ester oil. You can switch brands anytime you want. If you want to be anal about it, you can do a very short change interval when you first switch. Personally, I run Motul 300V, and some others use Redline's Synthetic, both of which are also good synthetics and happen to contain significant ester content. I suspect the 300V formulation is a really ideal oil for our engine, but it comes with caveats: on top of being pricey per quart to begin with, it doesn't deal well with long change intervals and/or high humidity, making it even more expensive to use it properly (it's more hygroscopic than competitors, meaning it will suck humidity out of the air and ruin itself via acidification over time faster than competitors). It's totally not worth the $$ in general, especially on a street-mostly car, but I use it anyways. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 02-27-2012 at 04:38 PM. Reason: grammar-os