2014 with 20,000 miles (bought new 1 year ago). Yesterday I shifted gears and the clutch only came half way back up. I was able to pull it back up
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07-25-2016, 09:17 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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2014 with 20,000 miles (bought new 1 year ago). Yesterday I shifted gears and the clutch only came half way back up. I was able to pull it back up with my foot and made it home fine having to pull the clutch up with my foot a few times....... This morning it is driving fine and not sticking half way or all the way down.
I want to take it to the dealer but if they can't recreate the problem what is the point? It definitely is not as stiff as it was when it was new but afraid they will just replace the fluid. |
08-03-2016, 06:25 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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I think I'm now victim to this issue. I was driving home saturday night and my pedal went spongy. I was able to get it home, the pedal didn't drop to the floor and there was no actual loss in pressure, but now the pedal is grabbing much higher than normal. I dropped the car off last night at the dealer to see what they say. Anyone else have a similar issue where the pedal went spongy but still had a pedal? Just doesn't make too much sense to me as to how that could be. I just hope they don't say that it's the actual clutch.
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08-03-2016, 07:00 AM | #3 (permalink) | |
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08-03-2016, 07:00 AM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Definitely first signs of CSC failure. The dealer will either 1) Say its normal and send you on your way (because "some" of them are a-holes) and 2) They will drain the fluid and fill it up with "GTR fluid" which technically its just a Band-Aid to the problem.
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08-03-2016, 07:06 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm hoping the fact that the service advisor was my old boss at one point, that he'll go to bat for me and hook me up. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I also have an issue where there's an intermittent tapping that you can feel in the clutch pedal when sitting idle. You can feel sort of a "tap tap tap" in the pedal when you slightly depress it. I've complained about this before but I was told the clutch operation was normal and they sent me packing.
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08-03-2016, 07:41 AM | #6 (permalink) | ||
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However, the failing internal seals in the master can allow contaminants by the seals and into the sealed clutch system. These contaminants cause additional wear on the internal CSC parts which are are already prone to failure. When a master seal slips, fresh fluid is the best counter to the extra risk of failure due to the contaminants introduced. But as you can see from elhombre's post, even that doesn't necessarily help.
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08-03-2016, 12:37 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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All was good until hot summer weather arrived. 2nd time I had problems, clutch pedal spongy, slow to return, and then I had to pull pedal up with foot to get it to return. 90° plus outside temp, & I was in a traffic back-up from beach. Made it home. Checked clutch fluid level, it was good, but fluid noticeably darker in color. Note I do have aftermarket 3" dual exhaust (header back). I think a lot of heat is transferred from them. Car sat in garage 2 days. I went for drive and clutch was fine, for awhile. But after about 40+ minutes of driving, clutch problem arrouse again. If I "granny shift" car, with no high rpm, I can get by longer, but that defeats purpose of why I bought the car. I'm considering the CSC elimination kit, but not sure of fit with after market exhausts. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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08-03-2016, 02:36 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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08-03-2016, 03:19 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Some who have posted here had very good Dealerships that did not include the CSC as a wearable part. I was not so lucky. Check color of hydraulic fluid; is it showing signs of small dark/black specks in fluid? I suggest finding a reputable mechanic that will flush old fluid & replace with a better grade of heat resistant hydraulic fluid. If you are seeing specks in fluid, it could mean the plastic fittings within your CSC are breaking down. Remember, if you must replace either CMC or CSC, it's best to bite the bullet and do both at same time. Go with Heavy Duty CSC over stock, but keep in mind it's better but not perfect. As I am having problems still. I think I must go with some type of CSC elimination kit. If heat is cooking my CSC now I can just imagine if I install twin turbo the heat will be even higher. Get "AAA", because the CSC can fail at anytime without warning and leave you stranded! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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08-03-2016, 03:30 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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This ^
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08-04-2016, 08:08 AM | #11 (permalink) | |||||
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fluid gets nasty colored immediately. This is a telling sign that your master internals slipped. Especially if you have an aftermarket CSC. I don't think dirty fluid is a symptom of CSC failure as it typically fails catastrophically, leaking fluid into the transmission bell housing. Quote:
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You have the ZSpeed CSC? If so, I promise it's not your HD CSC that's having problems. It's the master. If you really want to go with one of the external slave kits, I don't think you can go wrong with either the ZSpeed or the Z1 solutions. And neither of them will interfere with an aftermarket exhaust as they are located adjacent to the driver side catalytic converter.
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08-03-2016, 06:50 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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I agree with you guys on this as well. I'm no slouch when it comes to the car game. I used to be a tech, now I'm an assistant parts manager for a toyota dealer. It's just aggravating with all of the back and forth with the dealer on this matter. I just don't want to keep getting hit with diag charges from different dealers and them saying the same thing. I have another dealer I'm going to contact in the morning and see what they say. It's almost worth just biting the bullet and spending the $1200 and buy a clutch kit, csc, cmc and flywheel and do the work myself. Lol
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