Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures

bLKchry370z

I just got off the phone with the dealer and they're trying to tell me that it's my clutch and that nothing is covered under my warranties. Understandable since it's a wearable item, but it's obnoxious since I've had it in for this same concern and was told that my clutch operation is totally normal. I think a call to Nissan corporate is going to be in the cards for this guy. I'm beyond pissed!!

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Current Cars:2014 370z, 1988 Suzuki Samurai (mint)
Past Cars: 2006 IS250, 2007 Scion TC (boosted), 2003 Civic SI EP3 and the list goes on...

KoolKarmaJoe

It's not your clutch! It's a design flaw with the CSC, which will eventually cause your CMC to also fail.
Some who have posted here had very good Dealerships that did not include the CSC as a wearable part. I was not so lucky.
Check color of hydraulic fluid; is it showing signs of small dark/black specks in fluid?
I suggest finding a reputable mechanic that will flush old fluid & replace with a better grade of heat resistant hydraulic fluid. If you are seeing specks in fluid, it could mean the plastic fittings within your CSC are breaking down.
Remember, if you must replace either CMC or CSC, it's best to bite the bullet and do both at same time. Go with Heavy Duty CSC over stock, but keep in mind it's better but not perfect. As I am having problems still.
I think I must go with some type of CSC elimination kit. If heat is cooking my CSC now I can just imagine if I install twin turbo the heat will be even higher.

Get "AAA", because the CSC can fail at anytime without warning and leave you stranded!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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"Joe"
AAM True 3" Duals / Whiteline Bars & Rear Links / Tanabe Sustec Pro / Mishimoto Oil Cooler / Michelin Pilot SS
ACT HD Pressure Plate / ACT Performance Disc / ACT Streetlite Flywheel / ZSpeed HD CSC on GTR Fluid.

MagmaRed370z

This ^

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Sold: 2014 Magnetic Black Base.
Current: 2014 Magma Red 370z Sport | ARK Grip Exhaust | 25mm HR Spacers | GTR Button | DRL Mod

JARblue

This happens vice versa as well. The internals in the CMC aren't high quality either and sometimes fluid gets past the seals and introduces contaminants into the system. These contaminants can cause the CSC to fail. The master must have an o-ring seal or something that gets loose and then seats back into place because you can lose pressure and then have it return. In this scenario, you can typically return pressure to the master by pumping the pedal hard and fast for 20+ stokes. You'll probably have to use your hand to do this.

When the internal master seals fail and let contaminants into the system, the
fluid gets nasty colored immediately. This is a telling sign that your master internals slipped. Especially if you have an aftermarket CSC. I don't think dirty fluid is a symptom of CSC failure as it typically fails catastrophically, leaking fluid into the transmission bell housing.

All Nissan dealerships consider the CSC a wearable part. Anyone whose dealer covered the work either had warranty coverage or the dealership performed the service out of "good will". They have what they call "good will coverage" for customers that spend lots of money on service at the dealership already. If you DIY or just never use the dealer for service, then you're incredibly unlikely to have the good will coverage approved. I went over this matter with 3 different Nissan dealerships

Actually, that's probably the master. But a flush with higher temp fluid is definitely a good idea

Definitely replace the master if you do the slave. But in this case, I would start with the master. The OEM parts are about the same cost but the master is far less labor and the more likely culprit in that case.

You have the ZSpeed CSC? If so, I promise it's not your HD CSC that's having problems. It's the master. If you really want to go with one of the external slave kits, I don't think you can go wrong with either the ZSpeed or the Z1 solutions. And neither of them will interfere with an aftermarket exhaust as they are located adjacent to the driver side catalytic converter.

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