Gas Pedal Delay

wstar · 08-02-2012, 07:26 PM

Well the AT's first gear comes out at a lower ratio than the MT's, even given the worse ratio in the final drive. That's probably most of it. The lockup torque convertor works great, so you don't see as much slippage loss as traditional ATs. And of course 7ATs have the torque multiplication factor going for them too when you first engage.

wstar · 08-03-2012, 10:20 AM

The only sane way to disable VVEL is to replace the heads. VVEL is an oil-pressure-driven mechanical system with an eccentric shaft, etc. The electronic servo just controls the angle between the shafts. Somehow disabling the ECU's control of it would probably be catastrophic.

Have you gone over all the basic maintenance/inspection stuff? PCV system, air filters (not clogged, not leaking air around them from a bad seal, etc?), clean the MAF sensors, reset the idle air volume, check for exhaust / intake tract leaks, etc. There are a lot of "little" things that can adversely affect engine performance.

kenny's 370z · 08-03-2012, 11:03 AM

the only thing i havnt done yet is to replace the spark plugs.

edit;on lunch today,i took the grounds back off the throttle bodies and i believe the grounds were hurting more than helping.this car is like a woman.moody as hell lol

Compdoc777 · 08-03-2012, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

The only sane way to disable VVEL is to replace the heads. VVEL is an oil-pressure-driven mechanical system with an eccentric shaft, etc. The electronic servo just controls the angle between the shafts. Somehow disabling the ECU's control of it would probably be catastrophic.

Have you gone over all the basic maintenance/inspection stuff? PCV system, air filters (not clogged, not leaking air around them from a bad seal, etc?), clean the MAF sensors, reset the idle air volume, check for exhaust / intake tract leaks, etc. There are a lot of "little" things that can adversely affect engine performance.

You can control when the VVEL kicks at what rpm. That will affect fuel efficiency, but give you more power lower in the band.

DIGItonium · 08-03-2012, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z

edit;on lunch today,i took the grounds back off the throttle bodies and i believe the grounds were hurting more than helping.this car is like a woman.moody as hell lol

Your car may have cooled down with the time taken to remove the ground connections.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Compdoc777

You can control when the VVEL kicks at what rpm. That will affect fuel efficiency, but give you more power lower in the band.

Not sure what you mean here. VVEL is always active. It's the sole mechanism for controlling throttle. The butterflies are still there, but are always open.

wstar · 08-03-2012, 05:36 PM

^ VVEL is always active, it's pretty integral to how the ECU operates this engine (VVEL != VTEC). I'm pretty sure the normal throttle butterflies *do* vary in some situations though, they're not completely static.

kenny's 370z · 08-03-2012, 09:20 PM

i took that sensor out that is connected to the vvel motor that goes in the top back side of the im.it was oily.not dripping, but oily.so when you clean the maf sensors,hit that one too.

i also found this interesting;
http://www.allanglesdesign.com/porta.../CCV_Bible.pdf

Compdoc777 · 08-04-2012, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

^ VVEL is always active, it's pretty integral to how the ECU operates this engine (VVEL != VTEC). I'm pretty sure the normal throttle butterflies *do* vary in some situations though, they're not completely static.

VVEL is not like Vtec. VVEL controls valve timing on intake and exhaust. VTec controls the valves in Honda you have a extra lobe on the cam when activated these open all the valves will open using this hotter lobe on the cam. Now i-Vtec adds the VVEL to the mix with variable valve timing to the intake and exhuast for better performance through the RPM band.

wstar · 08-03-2012, 11:18 PM

I really like that PDF, good explanations I haven't seen elsewhere. Currently my car is in his "Stage 1" config. I have a really good quality baffled can on the PCV side, and stock hose on the fresh air side. (Well, our car has two of each of those lines, and I've run my PCV lines together with a Y-adaptor for a single can).

It's tempting to go ahead and run dual cans with his stage 3 setup for the NA 370Z, and I might get around to that someday. You could use the existing fresh air paths since we already have two of them, just replace those plastic baffled things with regular hose through cans, and then cap off the PCV valves and corresponding manifold connections.

ZForce · 08-05-2012, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenny's 370z

i took that sensor out that is connected to the vvel motor that goes in the top back side of the im.it was oily.not dripping, but oily.so when you clean the maf sensors,hit that one too.

i also found this interesting;
http://www.allanglesdesign.com/porta.../CCV_Bible.pdf

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I really like that PDF, good explanations I haven't seen elsewhere. Currently my car is in his "Stage 1" config. I have a really good quality baffled can on the PCV side, and stock hose on the fresh air side. (Well, our car has two of each of those lines, and I've run my PCV lines together with a Y-adaptor for a single can).

It's tempting to go ahead and run dual cans with his stage 3 setup for the NA 370Z, and I might get around to that someday. You could use the existing fresh air paths since we already have two of them, just replace those plastic baffled things with regular hose through cans, and then cap off the PCV valves and corresponding manifold connections.

Interesting reading guys.

Which aftermarket oil catch can do you recommend, and is there a DYI out there? The link above is good.

Is cleaning the MAF sensors also on the list of things to do to keep the car running healthy?

wstar · 08-04-2012, 03:03 AM

It could be that it lives in the flow of oil and is always oily

wstar · 08-04-2012, 09:22 AM

I think maybe you misread me, I said VVEL != VTEC

. Also VVEL doesn't control the exhaust valves, just the intake ones.

ZForce · 08-05-2012, 12:12 PM

Found it thanks wstar

DIY - Oil Catch Can (w/ M370 + Batt Reloc)

Edit....drats...:quote from DYI "This DIY is only completely applicable for cars with the M370 Intake Manifold and a relocated battery".

wstar · 08-05-2012, 02:15 PM

Well the M370 changes the hose routing, since you need to use a T-adapter even without a can for the M370. The same basic principles apply to the stock manifold, but if you want to do the stock one as a single-can setup you'd want to cap off one of the manifold inlets.

ZForce · 08-05-2012, 07:44 PM

Thanks wstar

Rep'd

08-02-2012, 07:26 PM	#1 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	Well the AT's first gear comes out at a lower ratio than the MT's, even given the worse ratio in the final drive. That's probably most of it. The lockup torque convertor works great, so you don't see as much slippage loss as traditional ATs. And of course 7ATs have the torque multiplication factor going for them too when you first engage. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-03-2012, 10:20 AM	#2 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	The only sane way to disable VVEL is to replace the heads. VVEL is an oil-pressure-driven mechanical system with an eccentric shaft, etc. The electronic servo just controls the angle between the shafts. Somehow disabling the ECU's control of it would probably be catastrophic. Have you gone over all the basic maintenance/inspection stuff? PCV system, air filters (not clogged, not leaking air around them from a bad seal, etc?), clean the MAF sensors, reset the idle air volume, check for exhaust / intake tract leaks, etc. There are a lot of "little" things that can adversely affect engine performance. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 08-03-2012 at 10:22 AM.

08-03-2012, 11:03 AM	#3 (permalink)
kenny's 370z Base Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: TN Age: 60 Posts: 243 Drives: 2012 frontier sv v6 Rep Power: 15	the only thing i havnt done yet is to replace the spark plugs. edit;on lunch today,i took the grounds back off the throttle bodies and i believe the grounds were hurting more than helping.this car is like a woman.moody as hell lol Last edited by kenny's 370z; 08-03-2012 at 12:47 PM.

08-03-2012, 05:36 PM	#6 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	^ VVEL is always active, it's pretty integral to how the ECU operates this engine (VVEL != VTEC). I'm pretty sure the normal throttle butterflies do vary in some situations though, they're not completely static. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-03-2012, 09:20 PM	#7 (permalink)
kenny's 370z Base Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: TN Age: 60 Posts: 243 Drives: 2012 frontier sv v6 Rep Power: 15	i took that sensor out that is connected to the vvel motor that goes in the top back side of the im.it was oily.not dripping, but oily.so when you clean the maf sensors,hit that one too. i also found this interesting; http://www.allanglesdesign.com/porta.../CCV_Bible.pdf Last edited by kenny's 370z; 08-03-2012 at 09:52 PM.

08-03-2012, 11:18 PM	#9 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	I really like that PDF, good explanations I haven't seen elsewhere. Currently my car is in his "Stage 1" config. I have a really good quality baffled can on the PCV side, and stock hose on the fresh air side. (Well, our car has two of each of those lines, and I've run my PCV lines together with a Y-adaptor for a single can). It's tempting to go ahead and run dual cans with his stage 3 setup for the NA 370Z, and I might get around to that someday. You could use the existing fresh air paths since we already have two of them, just replace those plastic baffled things with regular hose through cans, and then cap off the PCV valves and corresponding manifold connections. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-04-2012, 03:03 AM	#11 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	It could be that it lives in the flow of oil and is always oily __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-04-2012, 09:22 AM	#12 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	I think maybe you misread me, I said VVEL != VTEC . Also VVEL doesn't control the exhaust valves, just the intake ones. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-05-2012, 12:12 PM	#13 (permalink)
ZForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,359 Drives: 09 370Z Tour + Sport Rep Power: 23	Found it thanks wstar DIY - Oil Catch Can (w/ M370 + Batt Reloc) Edit....drats...:quote from DYI "This DIY is only completely applicable for cars with the M370 Intake Manifold and a relocated battery". Last edited by ZForce; 08-05-2012 at 12:16 PM.

08-05-2012, 02:15 PM	#14 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	Well the M370 changes the hose routing, since you need to use a T-adapter even without a can for the M370. The same basic principles apply to the stock manifold, but if you want to do the stock one as a single-can setup you'd want to cap off one of the manifold inlets. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-05-2012, 07:44 PM	#15 (permalink)
ZForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,359 Drives: 09 370Z Tour + Sport Rep Power: 23	Thanks wstar Rep'd Last edited by ZForce; 08-05-2012 at 07:47 PM.

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