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It's not just intake temp its also humidity so you may want to factor that in. I don't think you'll need an all out IC, an oil cooler with a
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A True Z Fanatic
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It's not just intake temp its also humidity so you may want to factor that in. I don't think you'll need an all out IC, an oil cooler with a spacer should suffice. Heat soak is a problem on all cars but from my results my dyno #'s actually went up on each run with a 5 min cool down between the 2nd and 3rd run.
Guys, I'm serious on this DYNO IN 5TH you shouldn't hit the speed limiter trust me on this, I'll scan the dyno graph when I go home later this week.
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A True Z Fanatic
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I don't know why you wouldn't, its the most accurate, you always shoot for that 1:1 on a dyno
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A True Z Fanatic
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what I meant was an oil cooler with a thermostat plate will be more useful than an IC in N/A applications.
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2009 Carbon Fiber/Red 370z aka Trish: Sports Package, Meisterschaft full catback, Fast Intentions Longtube Headers, Injen Long Tube Intakes, UpRev Tune: Sold ![]() 2008 Lotus Exige S Club Racer aka Bella, always leaves me smiling |
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Most times/places I've dynoed do 3rd or 4th. You don't need to run the car to 150mph on the dyno to get an accurate number. Did a shop tell you that you need to run the car in 5th or something?
You can calibrate the dyno for each gear before doing the runs. Its really easy... |
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just throwing this out there for Zsteve an intercooler on an NA car is totally useless and don't even try it unless you use charge cooling on it such as a co2 bar or ice in the case of a water to air and even then it is going to be me much more trouble than its worth. It can only lower your intake temps down to ambient at best and for refference a stillen gen 3 intake does that already as temps through it are only about 6 degrees above ambient sitting at idle with no air moving into the bumper (worst case).
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