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370Z Factory LSD: This thing is worse than I remembered

Without a percentage number e.g 40% lock capacity the compare discussion is use less. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential The technology of differentials and LSDs Making things worser than they are should not sell

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Old 02-08-2010, 11:52 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Without a percentage number e.g 40% lock capacity the compare discussion is use less.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

The technology of differentials and LSDs

Making things worser than they are should not sell other things better

P.S: a VLSD has normaly a curve delta wheelspin to torque % transferred to the otherside

Sources will help to compare

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Old 02-08-2010, 11:57 AM   #17 (permalink)
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^agree
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
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CARBON CLUTCH - CARBONETIC - ACROSS Official Website

no curves

CARBON CLUTCH - CARBONETIC - ACROSS Official Website

no curves

and both look like they have only motor a cycle clutch inside --- cheap and heavy
after market desinged cnc stuff... maybe not bad.. who knows
and i think the carbon clutch is only for longer duration than normal motor cycle clutch types

if you make a lot of motor cylcle power weehlies from the light line the normal clutch burns out and loose the grip...thats all
by the way all europen cars are sold with VLSD and the big brakes (PACK or not)
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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So are the OS Giken more stock feeling the Quiafe? Also does anyone know what LSDs are out there for us 7AT guys? I have no lsd now so from what I can have found out that if I want to add a LSD and change gear ratios I would need to buy a 350Z pumkin too. If I just go LSD do I still need to buy the 350Z pumkin?
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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What mtn route did you go Sharif?
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackflag View Post
But is the one in the Nismo model the same as the Nismo kit you can buy - the one with the adjustable settings?
No the Nismo aftermarket diff is a nasty race-like clutch style LSD. Pretty harsh and noisy so I don't recommend it for most people.

The OEM diff in my Nismo 370Z is the same as the other VLSD's on the 370Z. Nothing special to it.
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Like I said in my journal ages ago, the stock lsd sucks, its just awful and completely unpredictable. One of my next mods is going to be that carbonetics 1.5 since some of you folks are having good luck with it.
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:47 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I inquired about a new diff the last time my mechanic worked on the car. He said "no problem" but noted that a diff change is a real PITA. Said it's one of his least favorite things to do. Apparently it takes a lot of trial-and-error with shims to get things aligned properly.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Zsteve View Post
I always take the car to the twisties. That's why I bought it. Seriously, I'm not having any issues at all, I'm not some n00b, I'm race-trained in Formula Fords.

I have no doubt the LSDs mentioned above are much better than the viscous oem unit. But I think the oem LSD is quite adequate for street use. No mountain twisties around these parts, but lots of twisties, elevation changes and very challenging old New England roads. In fact, the most impressive thing about this car is it's predictability when exiting a corner at speed. Besides I like a little wheelspin, it's challenging and fun.
Yeah, it does add a little excitement.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:00 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCZ View Post
Like I said in my journal ages ago, the stock lsd sucks, its just awful and completely unpredictable. One of my next mods is going to be that carbonetics 1.5 since some of you folks are having good luck with it.
I would not be surprised if you dropped a full second with the LSD installed.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:40 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spearfish25 View Post
I inquired about a new diff the last time my mechanic worked on the car. He said "no problem" but noted that a diff change is a real PITA. Said it's one of his least favorite things to do. Apparently it takes a lot of trial-and-error with shims to get things aligned properly.
Hmm, that's not what I want to here. Guess I'll be taking it to my mechanic for that one rather than attempting it myself.

The unpredictable grab and release behavior in the stock viscous unit is what I can't stand. I have one long sharp corner that I take on the way to work and if you push it a little it will grab and release 3 or 4 times. Not exactly confidence inspiring.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:55 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spearfish25 View Post
I inquired about a new diff the last time my mechanic worked on the car. He said "no problem" but noted that a diff change is a real PITA. Said it's one of his least favorite things to do. Apparently it takes a lot of trial-and-error with shims to get things aligned properly.
The current aftermarket diffs are machined so precisely, that in only 1 case have we had to order different shims, especially given that everyone's OEM ring/pinion will be in low mileage/good condition. As long as he is experienced in working with rear ends, this isn't really that difficult of an install.
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:52 AM   #28 (permalink)
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come on pick up the factory manual, a tube of marking paint, match stamp the caps so you don't put the wrong one on the wrong side and do work. On a new car most fit right away or are just a little off. you just assemble, torque, check with marking paint and if it doesn't run right in the middle of the pinion take the rear end in to a shop and have them shim it if you are lazy. My vote is quaife unlimted lifetime warranty and it doesn't require clutch changes.
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:04 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
come on pick up the factory manual, a tube of marking paint, match stamp the caps so you don't put the wrong one on the wrong side and do work. On a new car most fit right away or are just a little off. you just assemble, torque, check with marking paint and if it doesn't run right in the middle of the pinion take the rear end in to a shop and have them shim it if you are lazy. My vote is quaife unlimted lifetime warranty and it doesn't require clutch changes.
Thanks! Ok I'm feeling a little more confident after finding this DIY for a 350Z Carbonetic which I imagine is identical.
http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/d...tall-pics.html

The part that isn't clear to me is how you use the marking paint to ensure center alignment. Can you explain that part in a little more detail?
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The problem with Quaife, etc. is that (I think) you have to cut up the stub shafts...that's a big selling point, to me, for the Nismo unit. It comes with new shafts.
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