Mc & csc

ZoomZ

Rusty is correct about the starting point of 110F. This would be normal for winter driving. However, you need to add time. 1 hour at least. 180F+ is the magic number. Again, 45 min- 1 hour at least in this temp. Start time when you reach 180F+.

This will open up another oil can of worms.

Just do us a favor and drive the car! Dont idle in driveway until you reach "operating temp". The worst thing garage queen owners do. Your better off not running it at all.

vtec to vvel

Very true. In terms of skill set, by no means would I call myself an expert, but I've taken out a tranny before to replace the clutch, though this was a long time ago and it took me a while when I did (back then, awesome forums like this one and youtube didn't exist ). I suppose my biggest fear is the unknown, as replacing the MC and CSC would be a first for me. The other option would be to take it to a shop, but I don't know of any reputable shops around, other than the stealership and who knows if the person working on my car would know what they're doing or if they will actually use the parts I provide.

Believe me, there is nothing more I would love than to actual be able to drive my car. Problem is the CSC/MC is on its way out and after about 15 minutes, the clutch pedal begins to feel soft and clutch fluid level dropping. I suppose I am one of the lucky ones on getting a warning before going out. It's weird because everyone else have posted this issue hit them out of nowhere and no warning. The clutch pedal never has stuck to the floor and always returns, but does have a noticeable softer feel and less pressure after about a 15-min drive, and I do have to top off the fluid every drive (no leaks on the floor, which leads me to believe it's leaking within the housing bell).

Rusty

If you are losing fluid in the reservoir. The CSC is leaking.

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FX-32

I did mine recently, two months ago, I was at the ATL airport "parked"/waiting in a non appropriate spot waiting for a friend to come off the arrivals door, and a police officer turned on the red blue lights, OK time to move I said, clutch in, First and... nope!! all of the sudden my CSC failed right there in the worst possible moment. I forced first gear and eventually it got in. I know it's risky but I was a bit scared of all that situation.

I parked as quickly as I could and checked Fluid level, it was good, but quickly it got empty after a few pumps.

So that same weekend I dropped my transmission, on four 6ton jack stands, and it took me 16 hours on Saturday, and 8 hours on Sunday. I didn't bleed it because I wanted to replace the master cylinder as well to start fresh with new parts, that took me about three more hours (I have a G37 and the master is bigger than the 370z, so it was harder to remove it, eventually it got out, and I put a 370z master. The only difference is that the G37 master has a damper to absorb vibrations and give a more luxurious feel... I noticed zero difference with my new 370z master cylinder)

If you already did it in the past, I suggest looking up for THE CARIZON videos related to transmission. I highly appreciate his videos, I wouldn't do it if it weren't for him doing such a great DIY guide.

The only part that gave me a hard time was to put the transmission back in! I lost about 6 or 7 hours, it was extremely frustrating but eventually it got in.

I purchased a Harbor freight transmission jack, the cheapest one (about $125) and that was the issue, it lacks of adjustability. It would been much easier with a better jack, I didn't want to cheap out, I just didn't know.

The transmission jack used by THE CARIZON looks pretty good, I suggest getting one like that.

Also, you could upgrade flywheel and clutch as well, pilot bushing, and maybe rear main seal (I didn't change it).

Get a decent quality torque wrench, and if your exhaust hardware is rusted, buy new bolts and nuts as well so if you need to use a grinder to remove them, you already have a good replacement.

I would say it's a pretty straightforward job, it's not really hard hard, but it's time consuming. I didn't hurry at all and wanted to take my time.

I didn't drain my transmission fluid and I didn't spill anything either, while removing the driveshaft.

vtec to vvel

I REALLY appreciate your response! Knowledge is power and any advice/tips/etc. is MUCH appreciated

Did you have help or did you do this by yourself?

FX-32

I did it 99% alone by myself, I had such a HARD time aligning it back into the engine that I called a friend and we put it back in quickly. Again, my mistake was the transmission jack, get a good one with as much adjustment as possible and you should be able to do it alone if time isn't an issue.

I went with Z1 lightweight flywheel and full face clutch kit (comes with pilot bushing and alignment tool), I'm about at 650whp and it works perfectly. Then a 370z master cylinder, and concept Z heavy duty CSC. I didn't want to go with the concept Z CSC delete that seems to be the best option, but anyways I'd like to try this one first.

If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in only one day this time, I see everything much clearer and I don't consider it a hard job now.

Good thing I decided to change everything else inside, because clutch took a lot of fluid that the CSC leaked and spilled everywhere.

vtec to vvel

Nothing but time lol my Z has been out of commission since 04/2020.

Let me know if you want additional practice on this for muscle memory and becoming an expert. I know just the car you can practice on