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clutch sticking

2010 370z convertible clutch pedal stuck happen right after the warranty ended. happen first time when car was run in lower gear (4TH) without realizing it; and reach temperature just

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Old 06-11-2022, 11:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default clutch sticking

2010 370z convertible clutch pedal stuck happen right after the warranty ended. happen first time when car was run in lower gear (4TH) without realizing it; and reach temperature just under limp mode. once car cooled down and a few toe pull up, the clutch pedal came back to normal. it happen again just yesterday under the same conditions. if this is an overheating problem; i might don't need to change or look into slave cylinder. i might just need the car engine cooled. here in Florida with temp in the high 90's; just going 70-90 mile open diving sends the temp in the 210-240 range, and has been since i owned the car brand new. 1.get better transmission fluid, 2.16-19 row oil cooler with therm. plate. and 3.change the oil sooner then specs allow. am hoping the transmission fluid gets to hot and causes clutch pedal to stick in those condition. WHAT YA'LL THINK?
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Old 06-11-2022, 06:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It's the CSC failing. Known issue for the Z34 and can be fixed by swapping to the ZSpeed CMAK; I'd also recommend replacing your master cylinder at the same time.
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Old 06-11-2022, 10:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Bleed the clutch fuild using DOT4 brake fluid. Motul RBF600 works well. That may buy you some time but a CSC replacement is in your future. As far as an oil cooler, Get a 34row for Florida.
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Old 06-12-2022, 06:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures
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Old 06-08-2023, 12:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Clutch pedal sticking

I had the clutch replaced about 4k miles ago. The pedal started hanging up just above the point of engagement, I would have to pull it up with my toe. It turned out that the master cylinder had come loose from the fire wall and was moving every time I depressed the clutch. When the master was re-attached to the fire wall the problem went away.
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Old 06-08-2023, 03:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dimsdale View Post
I had the clutch replaced about 4k miles ago. The pedal started hanging up just above the point of engagement, I would have to pull it up with my toe. It turned out that the master cylinder had come loose from the fire wall and was moving every time I depressed the clutch. When the master was re-attached to the fire wall the problem went away.

Sounds like a bad review for a sloppy shop


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Old 06-08-2023, 03:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lachap55 View Post
2010 370z convertible clutch pedal stuck happen right after the warranty ended. happen first time when car was run in lower gear (4TH) without realizing it; and reach temperature just under limp mode. once car cooled down and a few toe pull up, the clutch pedal came back to normal. it happen again just yesterday under the same conditions. if this is an overheating problem; i might don't need to change or look into slave cylinder. i might just need the car engine cooled. here in Florida with temp in the high 90's; just going 70-90 mile open diving sends the temp in the 210-240 range, and has been since i owned the car brand new. 1.get better transmission fluid, 2.16-19 row oil cooler with therm. plate. and 3.change the oil sooner then specs allow. am hoping the transmission fluid gets to hot and causes clutch pedal to stick in those condition. WHAT YA'LL THINK?
The items you listed have nothing to do with each other.

The CSC/CMC issue is a common issue that goes back to the 2007 350Z's. The oil and tranny fluid temps have nothing to do with the clutch pedal going down and not coming up, at least not in the context you are thinking.
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Old 06-08-2023, 03:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dimsdale View Post
I had the clutch replaced about 4k miles ago. The pedal started hanging up just above the point of engagement, I would have to pull it up with my toe. It turned out that the master cylinder had come loose from the fire wall and was moving every time I depressed the clutch. When the master was re-attached to the fire wall the problem went away.
If you changed the clutch but kept the OEM CSC, you are basically having to do double work. Depending on whether the CSC leaks clutch fluid inside the tranny housing and whether the fluid gets onto the clutch, you may also be looking at replacing the clutch again.
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