Looking for info on talented VHR builders.

oldskoolchuk

So, I've done a thorough search here and I haven't seen a thread discussing the various talented builders across the country for our VHR. Now, I'm looking at purchasing a built longblock for my 13 nismo and so far I've only talked to Mazworks, they quoted me 15k and I have to send them a virgin complete longblock core. This, with shipping and motor swap costs will push me over 20k after it's finally installed and all said and done.

My question is are there any manufacturers who make billet blocks who will build the motor into a longblock for me instead of using a stock block? And I'm almost scared to ask what that costs... but I want a proper race motor for what I do to this mf'er on a daily basis.

Also, if I'm going to use a stock block as a core, are there any builders that can come in with quality work like Mazworks at a better price? Dynosty seems to come in at 15.5k (something I read in another thread here), and I could be wrong, but I think I may have seen someone flaming dynosty in the boosted vq facebook group for doing him dirty in some way.

Thanks in advance guys.

redondoaveb

Read this
Billet VQ37HR block.

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
750whp/700ft.lbs

Spooler

Sure, we can have a billet VQ37vhr block made by Mazworx. We need 5 people to get it done at a cost of 10k a piece just for the block.

Spooler

The real question you should be asking is when do you need one? It will need to be 1200whp or more for you to need it. At that level you will also need aluminum rods to keep the crank from breaking. That means way more maintenance and less use before rod replacements will be needed. As a Street car this is really not practical.

Spooler

I forgot to add. To get to this level a standalone will be a must. That is another 10k for a Motec setup.

Spooler

The only other folks to talk to would be SOHO. I think theirs starts around 18k.

JARblue

That group is full of the pops 'n' bangs crowd that worship Admin Tuning to the detriment of their engine lifespan. You don't need to be paying attention to anything they have to say

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Tractionless

For any of the costs herein I'd lean toward an stock LS swap that will last forever and never have to wait for forced induction to spool.

FWIW lost all hope in Dynosty after finding out they don't calibrate their E85 % gauges with the sending units they source from others and admitted it to me. Mine always read 8% low when using Sunoco E85R in pails and comparing with 2 different test tube testers. Dynosty blamed the difference on the scale sticker on each of the NEW test tubes being off but their gauge never read the minimum Sunoco guarantees and is known to be accurate.

If they can't get that right, they touch no motor of mine. Can only imagine their box of excuses when their build goes awry. Good luck!

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SteveVQ

You probably never heard of 'em but DRZA Auto is amazing. Derek builds stuff like this:
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/202...-turbo-engine/

This is who currently services my Z when needed and who will be handling my build.

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'13 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT 328whp (Sold)

Spooler

No disrespect to the guy but if he hasn't built a +1000whp Z he has no idea what will be needed. You can decompress it down to 9:1 and they will still lift the heads and cause destruction.

FL 4Motion

Ls ftw. Seeing what spooler et al keep going thru with big booost builds, I think the ls route is def the easier way to go for reliable big power. I get the wanting to keep it Nissan/JDM tho too.

(I’d still ls swap tho).

oldskoolchuk

This is excellent info, thank you! I'm looking at the 800-900whp level... anything beyond that isn't really necessary for my intents and purposes. I was thinking a billet block would be wise, as in, if you're going to do it, do it right the 1st time. Sort of relieved that a stock block will hold down what I want to make.


I'm already above stock LS power and wouldn't want to downgrade. If I were to go LS I'd also be looking to boost that. I'd rather stick with the VHR. Plus, I kinda find LS swaps kind of tacky.




With all this said, there aren't any other reputable builders but SOHO, Mazworks, and Dynosty?

FL 4Motion

Imo, $20k otd for a fully built to the hilt motor ain’t too bad. At this level you really gotta pay to play.

But, proper race motor and daily driver don’t belong in the same sentence. Isn’t it only around $7500 for a stock long block? Why not just slap a FI tt kit on it and run 500-600 whp relatively reliably and if or when you lose a motor, only be looking at around $7500 plus install instead. Your car will be helashiosly quick and it won’t be ******** the bed constantly or having little issues all the time. Race cars are high maintenance bitches.

oldskoolchuk

That's where I'm at now. The builders and owner who had the build done initially decided to delete the passenger side pcv to make room for turbo piping, they were running it on pump gas at around 425whp. Since I've got it I've switched to e85, and as soon as we noticed the lack of a pcv on that side we fixed it... which took me machining up an elbow fitting at work by reverse engineering the pcv valve dimensions and then making a hose barb that threads into that to get a low enough profile fitting that would fit under the pipes. The problem is the damage is already done, and now that there's a pcv (feeding to the intake) I'm blowing big blue smoke at idle. So the answer is clear, swap another motor in for the time being and enjoy my 600, and build the one that's in it for more power and hopefully also reliability. The goal is to beat the CTS-Vs and the boosted mustangs with Coyotes and 10 speeds in the local late night racing scene... and so here I am looking for wisdom and advice.