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Massive coolant leak/geyser out of nowhere after fixing misfire??

So I created a thread yesterday about a random misfire event, that I traced to being a coil pack. During the goose chase, I undid the strut brace, stock intake

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Old 01-24-2021, 03:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Massive coolant leak/geyser out of nowhere after fixing misfire??

So I created a thread yesterday about a random misfire event, that I traced to being a coil pack. During the goose chase, I undid the strut brace, stock intake tubes, throttle bodies, and MAFs in order to clean them and also replace all the spark plugs.

I was putting everything back together, while the engine was warming up without issues. I was tightening the strut brace bolts when all of a sudden, I see this small geyser of coolant shooting out of the back of the engine block. I turned the engine off, and I could see all of the coolant burning but not exactly sure where it was coming from. I don't think I undid or crunched any lines while taking things apart/putting things together. I didn't even go anywhere near the back of the engine.

I turned the engine on again, and checked that coolant temp wasn't overheating, to see if I could find the leak. It seems like somewhere on the lower/back side of the block.

I attached some vids/pics....

Engine off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFpBTwX9mDA

Engine on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Rhd0NxcDQs





Any ideas? I really need to get this fixed so I can drive 850 miles back home....

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Old 01-24-2021, 04:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The heater hose bleed valve splice have been known to leak. That's is where the green cap is in the video. The very back of the motor. You have a couple of connections there. The hoses for the throttle bodies for one.
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
The heater hose bleed valve splice have been known to leak. That's is where the green cap is in the video. The very back of the motor. You have a couple of connections there. The hoses for the throttle bodies for one.
I think the heater connector is completely gone, like you said. It's just replacing this part, filling coolant back up, and try to bleed air bubble by leaving engine/heater on with reservoir cap removed?

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...417-jk20a.html

Wonder if the Z1 aluminum replacement worth it for almost 30 buckss

http://www.z1motorsports.com%2Fz1-pr...Crhj7RMSYewmss
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the Z1 part. That's where my aftermarket water temp gauge sensor goes to.
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Old 01-25-2021, 12:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I have the Z1 part. That's where my aftermarket water temp gauge sensor goes to.
They don't have the one with bleeder screw in stock until Feb...I think I'll just get the stock plastic part so I can fix it for now.

You burp the cooling system by leaving the radiator cap off and letting engine warm up with heaters on, correct?
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Old 01-25-2021, 12:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can do it that way. It will take a while.
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Old 01-25-2021, 05:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You can do it that way. It will take a while.
Any tips on getting the spring clamps off the hoses and broken pieces out of the hoses?

Those spring clamps do not wanna budge...hard to fit a vice grip in that small open space. My hands scraped up trying to get those clamps off to get the broken pieces out.
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSON View Post
Any tips on getting the spring clamps off the hoses and broken pieces out of the hoses?

Those spring clamps do not wanna budge...hard to fit a vice grip in that small open space. My hands scraped up trying to get those clamps off to get the broken pieces out.
Remove the cross bar and the throttle body for more room.
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Old 01-25-2021, 08:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Remove the cross bar and the throttle body for more room.
Tried but still not enough room. Also probably doesn't help I'm limited on tools and my vice grip is prob the wrong size. Might grab one of these tomorrow...busted up my arm trying to get to them already.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...235%7CL4*13430
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Old 01-25-2021, 09:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You should try installing LTH's.
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Old 01-26-2021, 02:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Pro tip, that tool doesn't clamp hard enough. Just use giant channel locks. I can't believe they used such tight clamps.

Also, I had to squeeze and break the old plastic tube to get them out. Hope no fragments went back down the hoses...
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You should try installing LTH's.
So... I assumed it's the leaked coolant on the header/block that's smoking.... How long is that supposed to last? Bleeding coolant and it's smoking after 5 min still. No leak and Temps seem fine.
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Old 01-26-2021, 05:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So... I assumed it's the leaked coolant on the header/block that's smoking.... How long is that supposed to last? Bleeding coolant and it's smoking after 5 min still. No leak and Temps seem fine.
The anti-freeze has to burn off the exhaust. Because it sprayed everywhere. You will have drips for a while. You could take a water hose and spray down the motor. The water will help remove the anti-freeze.
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