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Originally Posted by Rusty The left and center are the OEM stub out of my diff. The shiny one on the right is the one I got from Z1. The
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#1 (permalink) |
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Hey rusty, just wondered if you could clear something up for me. I noticed in your pic of the three stub axles ,that the one you bought from z1 for your OS Giken diff is short like your Oem LH stub axle but the Z1 axle is tapered and yours is flat ! I thought if fitting an OS Giken diff to a VLSD equipped 370z you just needed to buy another LH short stub axle so you’d end up with 2 short non tapered axles for a VLSD equipped 370z but seeing your pic has me confused.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Rusty, those pics you posted show threaded holes for the axles. This is one of those variances I have posted about. The pic that Jarblue post is a none threaded one that you have to bolt through. The bolt through axles are also what you need for the DSS pro level axles. There are so many variables it is hard to keep track.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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![]() Really. Important things are the axle bolt hole style and the stub axle snap ring location is the same as the short oem.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 04-05-2020 at 12:24 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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The taper really doesn't matter - I was kidding in my post about the wrong part.I've talked to a couple of guys that used the bolt-thru stub axle that I linked with their threaded axles. Said there was no problems using it, although I didn't get any specifics like whether they had to clean out the threaded holes or what.
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