CJM Oil Pan

Mike

FYI, anytime you ship fedex with insurance for $500 or greater, it requires a signature in person. If you have it redirected to a retail location, they will hold it 3 days. their substations are 10. I recently had something sent to a retail location, called them because I was on vacation and couldn't get it until the 4th day and they said sorry, we are sending it back then. Totally ridiculous!

UPS has never been a problem for me with shipping and I have been spending about 10k per year shipping with them. Never once lost a package and only 1 or 2 late deliveries due to weather.

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NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

jrb55gh

What is the recommended oil drain and access plug torque with the sealing washers provided?

phunk

For the drain plug I would use discretion per oil change as the temperature and lubrication have a big effect on how the threads are loaded. Since you will be using these threads more often, more care is needed.

I searched for examples of what others do with aluminum oil plug threads of this size (9/16, also almost identical to M14), and I didnt find much. What I did find was pointing to 20ft-lb max. When testing on my pan (wet with oil), it felt my best procedure was going to be to start at 15ft-lb and then turn it by hand a tiny more to the sweet spot. 20ft-lb seemed like a decent "max" torque number. But it also felt like if the oil on the threads and the pan were warmer, that 20 might be enough to stress it after enough cycles.

So I would say at this time, until giving it more testing, that I would torque it to 15 wet, and then use a hand wrench to turn it a little more by feel. when dry, 20 is probably a good number, but a dry number only really works for the initial installation.

I actually drew up this bracket the other day that I was thinking of having cut... this way we could just run around loose as hell and not have to worry about stressing it or it coming out. I am probably taking a little far its just that I have had several aluminum pans on VQs over the years and I hate how the threads feel after a couple years. Thats why I already went larger than the stock threads on this.

What do you think of this bracket? It is the same idea as safety wire sort of.

As for the large side ports, you would put some oil on the orings so they spin in easily. Then, I torqued mine to 45ft-lb and that felt good to me. They probably wouldnt strip out until way beyond that.

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KngScottieV

For this oil pan is there a gasket or liquid gasket that you prefer?

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2013 Nissan 370z Magma Red Base w/Sport package 6speed. AAM intakes (S-line for now, still needs tuned), Berk HFC's, ARK DT-S cat-back, CJM baffled oil pan, and FI 34 row oil cooler.

phunk

Nissan uses liquid gasket on all this stuff, and I use and recommend Permatex products. Specifically the Ultra Grey for the oil pan, although many of their products would likely suffice. I have also used Hondabond which is available at any Honda dealer, and I suspect it might be relabeled Ultra Grey. Nissan probably has their own version of the product too, its just that when the Z33 came out, I had already established my relationship with Permatex and Hondabond and those products were what I kept using.

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