It's about 10 miles from my house. That's way easier than getting it redirected elsewhere or shipped back to you.

Might just give me an excuse to pull the G out of the garage and get in some spirited driving:driving:

Excellent... ENT-Z's pan already got back to me today so it looks like I can wash my hands of FedEx for good!

Looks like Fedex works about as well as anything else with the word "federal" in it. :rofl2:

:bowrofl::roflpuke2:

FYI, anytime you ship fedex with insurance for $500 or greater, it requires a signature in person. If you have it redirected to a retail location, they will hold it 3 days. their substations are 10. I recently had something sent to a retail location, called them because I was on vacation and couldn't get it until the 4th day and they said sorry, we are sending it back then. Totally ridiculous!

UPS has never been a problem for me with shipping and I have been spending about 10k per year shipping with them. Never once lost a package and only 1 or 2 late deliveries due to weather.

oil drain plug torque
 

What is the recommended oil drain and access plug torque with the sealing washers provided?

For the drain plug I would use discretion per oil change as the temperature and lubrication have a big effect on how the threads are loaded. Since you will be using these threads more often, more care is needed.

I searched for examples of what others do with aluminum oil plug threads of this size (9/16, also almost identical to M14), and I didnt find much. What I did find was pointing to 20ft-lb max. When testing on my pan (wet with oil), it felt my best procedure was going to be to start at 15ft-lb and then turn it by hand a tiny more to the sweet spot. 20ft-lb seemed like a decent "max" torque number. But it also felt like if the oil on the threads and the pan were warmer, that 20 might be enough to stress it after enough cycles.

So I would say at this time, until giving it more testing, that I would torque it to 15 wet, and then use a hand wrench to turn it a little more by feel. when dry, 20 is probably a good number, but a dry number only really works for the initial installation.

I actually drew up this bracket the other day that I was thinking of having cut... this way we could just run around loose as hell and not have to worry about stressing it or it coming out. I am probably taking a little far its just that I have had several aluminum pans on VQs over the years and I hate how the threads feel after a couple years. Thats why I already went larger than the stock threads on this.

What do you think of this bracket? It is the same idea as safety wire sort of.

As for the large side ports, you would put some oil on the orings so they spin in easily. Then, I torqued mine to 45ft-lb and that felt good to me. They probably wouldnt strip out until way beyond that.

For this oil pan is there a gasket or liquid gasket that you prefer?

Nissan uses liquid gasket on all this stuff, and I use and recommend Permatex products. Specifically the Ultra Grey for the oil pan, although many of their products would likely suffice. I have also used Hondabond which is available at any Honda dealer, and I suspect it might be relabeled Ultra Grey. Nissan probably has their own version of the product too, its just that when the Z33 came out, I had already established my relationship with Permatex and Hondabond and those products were what I kept using.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...8162956859.jpg

Here's your postcard

Nice to see it safe and sound!

Well, someone blew two tires this weekend on his own body. (Knee trouble). I didn't get the install done on Sunday. I will get it this weekend for sure. 2-1/2 days on a ladder pressure washing the house did me in.

Wuss! :icon17: Take 2 perps and drink a beer. Then go to bed. Post in the morning. :tiphat:

LOL, 3 knee surgeries and more torn cartilage in both knees. Don't help much. :) Working this week, no time until Saturday. Then, FI oil cooler and oil pan in one shebang.

I feel your pain. Torn meniscus, getting Syn-Vic injections every 3 months. Hip replaced. 2 torn tendons in the bottom of my foot. Surgery coming up for that. It's a biitch getting old. :shakes head:

Still no installs yet?

Someone send me one and I'll install it. I'll also make a DIY thread. :p

I could post pic's of my AM Perf. pan installed if that would help some of you.

Send me $1000usd and I'll get it right in the mail :tup:

I ordered 4 of these and all of them are installed. They're really good.


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Unass the pics!

Let me see if any of them are doing oil change soon. Will get a few!


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This weekend.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...7bf550704d.jpg
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:yum:

double tee's?? Lots going on down there. Info?

It's my 34row coolers in parallel, lol. One on each side and Zele front bumper for them to get cool air.


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Phunk,
Does this tab for the undertray mounting need to come all the way off?
I should have test fitted it before I put the 3 bond on it. I had to clean it off due to it trying to setup while I was trying to figure
out why it wouldn't line up.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psqf5jhddm.jpg

You can bend it out of the way, or cut it off. That's what I did with my AM Perf. pan.

I had to temporarily bend it out of the way to install my Wolf pan spacer but I was able to bend it back after install to keep the mounting point for the tray. It was the only way to get access to that pan bolt.

That in play here or does it absolutely have to be permanently moved?

It's gotta go. I will deal with it in a few. I need some more RTV, a trip to the parts store is in order.

So it actually contacts the pan? If so I would just shave the edge off of it so you can keep the mounting point.

Ouch, that is an oversight on my part. Those mounting points on my car were cut off and filed flush going back 5+ years ago (Greddy oil pan or spacers require it also). I entirely forgot they were there or I would have made mention of this to save you from finding out the hard way and having to back track. My sincere apologies on this, that's a little embarrassing to have missed.

This undertray will still be functional without that bolt, I always ran it even though I had to remove the tab on both sides.

phunk, everyone I know who has a spacer or AM Perf pan have either cut that tab off, or bent it away. ;)

For sure... I know it is inevitable! I just wish I would have caught it so I could let people know and they would come in it to it prepared to do that.

You wanted pictures, here you go...

If you have never done one of these the lower pan can be a battle to get off. You almost always will nick the sealing surface a little. Just make sure you de-burr it. You don't want any high spots.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...pskpflxfe3.jpg


I used Nissan 3 Bond. I had some from when I replaced a valve cover on my wifes car. Just put a bead all the way around and smooth it down with your finger. Don't worry about the little bit that get's in the bolt holes.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psl2rkf3h0.jpg

3 Bond Bead before I smoothed it out.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psrbpgd6gs.jpg

Notice the little bead all the way around the pan when I tightened it up. You don't need RTV oozing out.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psmoz2vkzo.jpg

Now for the finished product without that damn tab. I had to run to the parts
store, I was out of cutoff wheels and thought I was out of 3 Bond. I found some more once I bought some new stuff as usual.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psdgjvxghe.jpg

Here is the pan after the unboxing.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psaanxtvsb.jpg

Bag o parts.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psmngmtmq9.jpg

Then the fun started..... Z1 oil cooler install. Gonna finish that up tomorrow, I need to pick up some antifreeze.

In that 2nd pic from the top. You got enough rtv for 2 pans. :icon17:

Excellent!

It's not that thick. LOL I have done so many front cover jobs in my past it is not even funny. You know the 12hr ones just to replace the 2 orings that go from the front cover to the oil pump. KA24DE, VG30DE, KA24E, etc. That's why my shoulders are shot. Working over my head all day holding air ratchets. They sound like I have gravel in them.

I know those type of jobs. Take all day just to get to the piece that needs replaced. Then take another day to button it up.

:icon17: I always hated working over head. Try welding overhead for 12hr a day. :shakes head: Glad I no longer do that. :icon17: