Fired her up tonight for the first time. No issues. No drips, no runs, no errors. This is a Johnny bench commercial. Off to work in the morning in her. I had to drive my truck today.

****!! My front splitter frame attaches to these!

You can bend the tab some to get a socket on the bolt. Then bend it back.

Another one on a twin supercharged G37 Sedan
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http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...88cabe4a84.jpg
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iPhone

Just the one has to be modified, the other side remains in place

Just got back from my buddies shop and got it installed. Fitment was perfect and we ground down the tab a bit, like in Andy_meng1024's picture. My buddy loved the way the oil pan looked and felt, he's installed a couple of the spacers for a couple other 370Z owners and he was impressed with the overall quality.

Looking forward to the next thing you make phunk.

If anyone was wanting one of these, they are currently in stock in black anodized or raw aluminum. Blue will be back in stock sometime in the next 3-4 weeks.

Thank you for the feedback, it is appreciated!

I just did my first oil change with the new pan. It takes right at 6 qts.

i need one in black, what fittings do i need for a supercharged 2010? the site lists 2 male or 1 plug and 1 male...not sure what to get.

Call him up tomorrow.

Questions:

- What SC?
- What Oil Pan do you currently have?
- Does your pan have any taps in it now?
- Do you have any need/want to add a oil temp sensor?

Or this. Phunk is super knowledgeable and can get you sorted.

gtm 1.5
Oem I guess
Don't know
If you're saying that I'll lose oem temp sensor then yea it's a must

If you have an OEM unmodified pan then you wouldn't be losing anything. If you wanted an aftermarket oil temp gauge then you would want one port to be tapped for your temperature sender (most likely 1/8"NPT).

I have not installed the GTM SC system, but from what I understand, the Rotrex SC uses its own oil in a sealed system, and does not use the engine oil.

If that is the case, no special accommodations would need to be made, and to just select the plugs for the oil pan would be the way to go.

So one plug and one male fitting option?

If you want to add an aftermarket oil temperature sender than you need a female fitting. The sender probe is male (usually 1/8"NPT but you would need to confirm with what you buy).

It depends on exactly what you intend to connect to the oil pan. If you do not plan to add anything than what is already there, then you would use 2 plugs.

If you plan on purchasing and installing additional components that you need to put into the oil pan, then this would require a different selection and we would have to know exactly what it is you plan to connect to it so we can look up what type of connection the product uses.

You can also use the 2 plugs for now, and then whenever you add something in the future, just replace a plug with an adapter of your choice. They simply unscrew and can be changed at any time.

CJM Oil Pan
 

So it occurred to me in preparation of install that I need OEM bolts for the stock pickup tube bolts and for the pan. Currently running the Wolf spacer and don't recall if I kept the OEM bolts from the install.

Anyone know the part number and qty for the pan bolts and then the two pickup tube bolts?

You wont need the OEM hardware... the CJM pan comes with the 10 bolts for the pan in the proper length, a new pickup spacer, and longer pickup bolts to accommodate the spacer.

Of course it does. Phunk, you da man!

So what is the difference between this CJM oil pan and the GTM/Gamma baffled oil pan, which one is better and by how what margin?

The Gamma one is only $295, half the price.

The CJM pan is a race pan with trap door baffles. The GTM pan is just a large pan.

The gtm pan has the trap door flaps as an option. I have it.

I guess the the differences are the shape and way it's made. Cjm is billet gtm is cast.

CJM: American made anodized billet aluminum 6061-T6 with 4 large trap doors around a fully contained sump area.

GTM: Imported cast aluminum with 2 tiny trap doors next to a un-contained sump area.

Just the raw block of aluminum for our pan costs more than an imported cast part. I would vote that our pan is a more practical size. Personally I am not a fan of the giant wings on the GTM pan. I wouldn't want that on my car. Different strokes for different folks!

I dont think I ever posted it in this thread...

The last batch received a couple updates. I switched the oil drain plug to use this new super low profile, practically flush, -8 o-ring drain plug with internal hex.

I really like the internal hex, not just because of how low profile it is, but because most people will use an allen key for this, which will drastically reduce the torque they put on it. My gripe with the external hex was that I always feared people who are not used to aluminum oil pans are going to eventually damage the threads over-torquing with the long 19mm box-end wrenches. Thats why I made the plug a larger than stock thread to begin with.

I also machined away some material around the flange, giving it a step, for a minor weight reduction. Pretty much negligible but I saw no harm in the CNC spending another minute or two on each pan to put this step on there... its not like im standing there waiting for each part to finish when the cycle time is so long anyway.

http://host.cj-motorsports.com/products/vhroilpan1.jpg

I need to place an order for a another one since my last one went with the totaled car around it. I will get it done eventually. The end of year crunch has been brutal and I still have more work to go.

So if I am not going to be tracking my car, well maybe a few times a year at max, and it is only a daily street car, do I need this CJM race pan?

Would the GTM pan be more practical for me?

I might go out on a limb and say that it sounds like you might not need any pan at all to be honest.

The CJM pan will put a dent in your wallet, no doubt about it. The GTM pan is practically free and I dont see any harm in having it. But the reasons I wouldnt put it on my personal car is because I dont like the big wings... I like race-car style serviceability and being able to reach my hands in everywhere I can. For a turbo car, that pan blocks off valuable hand/arm reach access to turbo system pipe couplers etc. Blocks the oil filter and oil cooler line access too. I also dont like their baffles that much, the flappers look really small and then the top is blocked off for some reason, so now oil returning from the block has to take the long way around to get to the sump area. My CJM pan does the opposite and even has vertical guides to try and influence returning oil to go directly to the sump area.

Too much oil capacity will make it take forever for oil temps to reach operating temp, which would drive me crazy because I will only baby my cars until the oil reaches full operating temp.

If a customers Z was here at my shop and they wanted oil system upgrades but didnt want to flex the cash for the CJM pan, I would use a Z1 oil pan spacer kit and a real nice oil cooler kit. The oil cooler kit will add the cooling ability you need, and the extra capacity you want without going overboard. The stock oil pan spaced down and with the oil pickup spaced down to match, will help reduce oil starvation because deepening the sump and pickup you have greatly increased the ability to keep the oil pickup submerged already... and then again the spacer adds some more displacement without going overboard. IMHO, this combo would be the best budget oil system upgrade path.

Can I get the new drain plug?

The threads and port style are different. The new plug I found is a -8 with o-ring seal rather than a -6 with washer. We would need the pan back here to retrofit it, which would involve building up a bead of weld around the existing oil plug port, and then re-machining that area of the pan.

I do have -6 plug of the exact same style now too, but I would still need the pan here to ream the o-ring contour into the pan since the existing port would not accept an oring.

Alright, so if I did get the CJM pan, am I going overkill?

Like i said my Z will only be a DD street car and occasional tracking at most, but I am shooting for 450-500 whp on a Stage 2 SC kit and I might be using the AAM R Line oil cooler, or a similar style oil to water cooler by PWR (racing company in Australia) with a 42mm core which apparantly cools like a beast.

Would that be overkill? I do have the cash for it all, but I just don't want it wasted if I am overkilling for my application.

I dont think I would consider it overkill. I think it has somewhat to do with your own taste and preferences! Do you like the finer things? haha! Our pan is pretty nice. If you have an appreciation for that pre-installation fondle-factor, this pan takes that trophy hands-down. IMHO the function and displacement of it just right, which would say its not overkill. But if you ask me, "will my engine blow up without it?". My reply would be... probably not.

Ok thank you sir for your information. I guess I could go with the CJM sump, it is only a few hundred dollars more than the Gamma. I just hope I don't overcool the engine from the extra oil and cooling etc.

My drive to work is everyday is about 25 minutes in the morning, and it normally takes the oil about 8 minutes of driving to warm up to 80-90 degC.

Have a feeling with the sump and the oil to water cooler and CSF rad, it might take the whole 25 mins to warm up lol

I don't think you have anything to worry about. I have the CJM pan and a 34-row cooler and my oil temperature still comes up within 5-10 minutes on the street (and immediately on track).

Similar time for me. I haven't installed my pan yet but I'm running the Wolf pan spacer, oil cooler and CSF. I have more oil capacity now than I will with the CJM pan so there shouldn't be any issues.

I ran a oil pan spacer with a 34 row oil cooler. The switched out the oil pan spacer for a AM Perf. oil pan. Which is like phuck's pan. I have no issues with oil temp taking too long to come up with either set-up. ;)

:rofl2:

Ooooop's. :icon17:

I'm building a FFR coupe with a coyote motor and am going to put my oil cooler BEHIND the radiator!! That will help bring oil temp up a bit quicker but I'm told will still provide effective cooling. I don't know if we have room in the Z for that but it's an idea...