Phunk, will the options be determined upon deposit. I would like the 2 drains with plugs, and are you still planning on the pry points for removal? Would prefer this over pressing a bolt into the mating surface to release the pan.

Options can be determined at any point up until production. Yes there will be 1 or 2 pry points added.

List updated, we might make it to the 10!

This pan is so sweet. I'd be all over it if I hadn't just for the first time in almost two years cleared my parts shelf off.

Good work Charles on pushing our platform!

I'll take the 10th spot! pm sent

Hmm, maybe you can make it to 20 phunk.

i am very interested in the pan as well.. come to think about it... i actually have a brand new oem oil pan laying here in my room that i ordered a couple weeks ago if u need to borrow it... i am in chicago area

Access ports are great idea.

Most owners or enthusiasts will be on top of their oil changes and oil quality. Racers will be no problem since they will be changing their oil very often. The daily drivers could have problems with varnish and sludge if doing extended oil change intervals while using oils that are not up to it. It would be nice to be able to look in and see if the flaps are working or poke them with a rod to detect movement.

Ok I am down for this Pan. Anodize black for me.


Pm Sent

C

I am in West Chicago / Batavia. I could swing by and grab the pan from you when running a trip to the anodizer or something. Let me know!

Thanks

List updated, looks like we have made it past 10, so $695 it is!

Awesome. You guys are going to love the thing. Giving in and installing it to the car wont be easy when its such a nice desk/table-top piece.

Please anodize mine Nismo Red on the outside only but leave the inside of the groves natural including your signature mark if it can be done. I want to make sure whoever I run over knows it was a Nismo.

I think you were only partly serious, but just in case: We can only anodize them black or blue with our normal batches of parts. Any other colors will have an extra charge ($120 color setup at anodizer). Also, the entire part would be anodized as that is how the process works. To create natural areas would mean putting the part back in the CNC after anodizing and re-machining areas.

Charles just let me know where to send the deposit to.

GD... If I weren't buying a new house....

Can you anodize the pan before you put it in the CNC machine, then install it back on the CNC to cut the groves and your watermark in it? I am good with the extra $120.

I dont think we will do that, for a few reasons. By the time the part is back from anodizing, the CNC will have been setup for other parts, so it would take a few hours start to finish to do it. Also, I would have to make new fixturing the hold the pan in the CNC after anodizing as the existing fixturing would not work for that because the way it holds the pan in that position gets machined off later. Additionally there is always potential for messing up a part when setting up a new CNC operation.. in this case it would be a part that was otherwise finished and done, which means an expensive mistake. Adding to that, there is a chance of the anodizing chipping off around the edges of machining leaving a rough edge.

Charles - dumb question. This a one time batch?

Unlikely, I think there will be more - The purpose of the pre-orders is mostly so I knew how many to produce. They are somewhat significant items for inventory and I wouldnt want to sit on 20 of them for years, and I wouldnt want to make 5 to have 10 more people ask for one a week later.

I will make a few more than the presales, and depending on how long it takes to sell those few will determine if and when another batch is made, and how many.

i am by downtown/bridgeport area.. let me know a few days ahead of time so i can let u know if im available

oh and add me to the list too!!

Cool. Then I think I'll wait until later. Got some other things I need to address before I drop $700 on a oil pan when I've already got a pan spacer for additional capacity.

Couple screen shots from CAD showing the updates discussed:

The groove for pan sealant, it wont be as deep as it appears in the pics.

The 2 areas for starting a screwdriver or other pry tool for removal.

-10 AN turbo drain adapters (optional).

Feel free to comment likes or dislikes of these changes.

Another, also one shown in black to give an idea of what that would look like.

question.. i was comparing this pan vs the a.m. pan and it seems like the baffle on the a.m. sticks above the pan a inch or so..how is that compare to your baffle that is flush or a little lower then the pan itself? cause wouldnt a taller baffle trap more oil and gives it a better insurance?

Yes A.M had more aggressive baffling by going up taller and thus deeper sump area. Going more aggressive on the baffling like that can increase effectiveness as long as you know for certain its not getting in the way of oil circulation.

I designed my pan to accommodate a deeper top baffle that I might make in the future pending demand, interest, and time. If I build one, it will be available to anyone with this pan as a bolt-in part.

I wasnt sure how much I liked that all oil returning to the sump area from the rear of the engine had to make it through the baffle system. Thats why my top baffle plate doesnt even have rear coverage, I like the idea of that oil being able to roll right into the pickup area. But without some small cameras hiding in the pan to watch what is happening, its difficult to visualize all the circulation in your head. I figured that a conservative baffle system for some protection in rapid lateral changes would be a safer approach than trying to manage and control every last drop of oil in a basic wet sump system.

Looks like I know what I'm doing next winter... Oil pan upgrade, fuel system upgrade, the next thing phunk makes upgrade...

After all the modding I did this year, Mrs.Force is going to sh!t a brick when she finds out I already started this winters mod list. We don't even have the car back from SoCal yet :icon14: :bowrofl:

Nismo Red for me then. I will pay the extra coin. Shoot me a PM and let me know when/where to make my deposit.

I see a problem with your design, it looks like the oil return from the turbos (the adapters on the side) is pointing straight at the check valves, the oil stream will hit it and keep it open making ur design useless.

I could be wrong.

maybe I need 2 then???? ;)

You mean that oil would be going through the baffles in the direction we want it to? Doesnt bother me one bit.

Yes, well if ur fine with it then i guess am the only one that isnt.

Just a heads up, anodizing isnt like body paint... I can have them do red, but it probably wont look like the same red as the car! We can ask for darker or lighter colors, but they wont guarantee any color matching.

if you really want the outside nismo red with bare exposed parts, I can powdercoat it wrinkle red and then you can sand the ribs back to silver. But, noone is ever going to see it.

I knew the color would be off a bit. That's fine.

The point of the baffles is to allow oil to travel towards the pickup. Oil flow in that direction is good. If the turbo drains were pushing oil in that direction, that would be a positive as it would provide oil flow in the direction we want it, and it would create a venturi effect promoting additional oil to flow in this direction.

When you want the baffles to close when turning, g-loads will close the baffles from the weight of oil pressing on them. So it wouldnt make a difference when it matters.

Although, the reality of it is that the turbo return oil is not high velocity. It is generally pretty aerated low velocity oil and probably couldnt push the baffles open even if the car was sitting stationary.

So while I dont agree with your concern at all, your concern does make me realize an alternate consideration. Maybe I will try and baffle the return area some to increase oil residency in the turbo return oil for the sake of improved aeration disposal.

LOL, we think alike. That is what I was going to do with it and then clear over it. Bump, Bump,,,, Nismo.


If it looks real good, I may not touch it.

If you do decide you want to make it 2-tone like that by painting or powder coating and then sanding, let me know because you would want it un-anodized to start with. You wont want to have to sand through anodizing, its much harder than the aluminum and soaks into the surface as well. It would be a nightmare to sand through it!

Ah, just make it Nismo red the best you can. I dare to be different.