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DIY: Transmission Oil Change

I added an extra ~100mL to the gearbox and the oil dribbled out. Perhaps there was some volume of oil trapped in the mechanism of the pump, and the oil

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Old 05-14-2013, 06:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I added an extra ~100mL to the gearbox and the oil dribbled out. Perhaps there was some volume of oil trapped in the mechanism of the pump, and the oil which cannot be picked up off the very bottom of the container.

I used an STM Tom Thumb pump:
http://www.onestoplubeshop.com.au/im...s/CA%20586.jpg

You guys in USA might have something similar. Minimal mess except when the nozzle end comes off the holder.

As for the diff, i couldnt get a torque wrench underneath to torque up the filler. I didnt jack the car up to do the diff so i just used a ratchet and made it snug. No leaks so far
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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For the guys that have done this job. Is there enough clearance in there to perhaps use a small funnel with a small clear hose attached at the bottom of the funnel? All I need is to be able to have the funnel just slightly higher than the fill hole. I can even angle the funnel a bit.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No room for the funnel in the sedan. Assume the 370z is identical. What you can do is run a length of hose from the filler hole on the side of the trans to the side of the car. Insert the hose into the funnel or funnel into the hose. Raise it a foot or two higher than the fill hole and pour. It'll be a slow process, but should work.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsolo View Post
No room for the funnel in the sedan. Assume the 370z is identical. What you can do is run a length of hose from the filler hole on the side of the trans to the side of the car. Insert the hose into the funnel or funnel into the hose. Raise it a foot or two higher than the fill hole and pour. It'll be a slow process, but should work.

Yeah, the funnel I have has a clear hose maybe 1/2" - 5/8 " inside diameter so it would flow Ok. I was thinking one of those dollar store clear turkey basters or large diameter syringe. I just don't seem to have any luck with those pumps. I also thought of using one of those pumps you hook up to a drill, might work on a low speed. Thanks for your input.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used a motive brake bleeder bottle. Bought it at jegs without any reservoir fittings. Went to menards and got a 1/4" npt to barbed fitting, and a length of hose. It takes about 5 min to transfer 1 qt of fluid. Leave practically no mess, doesn't fall apart on your half way through the first use either. Total was ~$50 for the bottle, fitting and hose.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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the turkey baster or large syringe would take a long time due to the viscosity of the oil.

even with the pump i used, it took a few minutes of hard pumping (the spring in the plunger has a lot of resistance because the pump is design to pump fluid out and draw fluid in from the bottle simultaneously each time the plunger is pressed down or rises up)

Funnel & hose can get messy if you accidentally drop the contraption whilst pouring. You'll need a mate underneath to tell you when to stop as well.

in summary, get the pump you will love yourself for it when you do the diff as there's no room for a funnel and hose job there
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I used a manual transfer pump: the kind you can pick up at the auto parts store that screws onto the bottle in place of the original bottle cap. Worked great. The only tricky bit is that the refill hole is a tube that goes in for an inch+ (for the overflow level check), and you need to find a plastic/rubber tube that slips into there nearly perfectly (and then adapt that to your pump tube. I don't remember which size worked for me, I just went to the hardware store and bought small lengths of several small diameters.
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Old 07-12-2013, 09:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Here are some pictures I took, hope I can help.

Tools used:



Car on Stand (Didn't need to take off the wheels.):



Loosen Fill Plug (FIRST!):



Loosen Drain Plug:



The pump I used (Walmart):



Start filling until overflow (start to overflow after 2.75 quarts)



Use new gaskets/rings (small price to pay to prevent leaking)


Last edited by YamahaR6; 07-12-2013 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yamaha, how did that pump work out? Any leaks from the unit itself during use?
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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drain plug should be loosened 2nd.
1st should be the filler - just in case someone superdooper glued the filler plug on for example.

but i guess you're exempt because you have a back up car
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
drain plug should be loosened 2nd.
1st should be the filler - just in case someone superdooper glued the filler plug on for example.

but i guess you're exempt because you have a back up car
Sorry, mistake...

Will fix it.

Thanks
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1325 View Post
Yamaha, how did that pump work out? Any leaks from the unit itself during use?
Mine was fine, no issues.
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for the pics as well. I believe I bought the exact same pump from Walmart. I have four of those same OEM washers and I'm going to do the transmission and differential at the same time. They were fairly pricey but I don't want to take any chances.
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yamaha, ... what are those black caps that fit over your jack stands? They look like they could be helpful. Did you fabricate them yourself or purchase them?

To the group ... I recall many years ago reading something about synthetic transmission fluid not be compatible with the seals in the tyranny (???). Presumably this was just rumour ... or improvements have been made in the fluids and/or seals. Can someone please confirm? I'm thinking of switching to synthetic in the new couple of weeks. Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:03 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40 to 332 View Post
To the group ... I recall many years ago reading something about synthetic transmission fluid not be compatible with the seals in the tyranny (???). Presumably this was just rumour ... or improvements have been made in the fluids and/or seals. Can someone please confirm? I'm thinking of switching to synthetic in the new couple of weeks. Thanks!
Synthetic is okay, but no GL5 for the transmission as it is bad for the synchros, use GL4 instead. You can use GL5 in the rear end.
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