DIY: How to Bleed Your Brake Fluid Using Motive Power Bleeder 0117 (AK370Z)

JARblue · 07-11-2013, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidInIndy

Hey JARBlue...what would you think if this cheapo process was done, say every couple of months (I mean it's pretty darn easy) instead of AK's 6 month rotation? By having more frequency do you think I'd EVER have to totally bleed the brake lines???

Also, my ride is a 2010 with 19K miles...do you think I'm due for this??

Thx in advance.

Quarterly is probably marginally better than biannually, but I'm not an expert by any means. With the right tools, bleeding the brakes in the proper manner is very easy as well. No, I would never consider that a permanent solution. The dirty brake fluid that is not siphoned out just becomes dirtier and dirtier over time making your efforts less and less effective over time.

I believe Nissan recommends 2 years or 30K miles, whichever comes first, for brake fluid change interval. If it's never been done before, it sounds like you're due.

ChrisSlicks · 07-11-2013, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by future370zzz

How long would it take to exchange the brake fluid with just new brake fluid and the turkey baster? Haha I am trying to be lazy. It looks really easy, nice write up with links and photos.

It's not very effective, since the brake fluid doesn't really circulate as such. The crummy contaminated fluid hangs out in the end of the brake lines near the caliper and there is no way you are getting that stuff out without bleeding proper, whether it be manually or with a power bleeder.

DavidInIndy · 07-16-2013, 11:12 AM

OK, got it. Thx JARBlue and ChrisSlicks.

1325 · 07-17-2013, 01:26 AM

I'm going to piggy-back off AK's tutorial for the base brakes. The only contribution I have is that the front bleeder screws are 10mm and the rears are 5/16 (8mm). Used Valvoline Synthetic. Thanks AK for your write-up.

AK370Z · 03-14-2014, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1325

I'm going to piggy-back off AK's tutorial for the base brakes. The only contribution I have is that the front bleeder screws are 10mm and the rears are 5/16 (8mm). Used Valvoline Synthetic. Thanks AK for your write-up.

Is your car NON AKEBONO (non sports pack)? because for sports pack Akebono, it's 10mm for front and rear bleeder bolts.

JARblue · 07-01-2013, 08:17 AM

I just did this the other week during front rotor and pad replacement. The only thing I'll add here that I didn't see is that the bleeder valves are supposed to be torqued to 70 ft-lbs in-lbs.

Also, I borrowed a friend's power bleeder and the hose attached to the main reservoir busted on me when I was just about to start the last corner. It sprayed me in the face (that's what she said) and got on my fender paint as well - I had to scramble to get a towel and some cleaner to wipe it off quickly. Just a friendly reminder to check the condition of your equipment

NS370Z · 07-02-2013, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I just did this the other week during front rotor and pad replacement. The only thing I'll add here that I didn't see is that the bleeder valves are supposed to be torqued to 70 ft-lbs.

Also, I borrowed a friend's power bleeder and the hose attached to the main reservoir busted on me when I was just about to start the last corner. It sprayed me in the face (that's what she said) and got on my fender paint as well - I had to scramble to get a towel and some cleaner to wipe it off quickly. Just a friendly reminder to check the condition of your equipment

Damn, those are tight bleeder valves. Did you mean 70 in-lbs?

JARblue · 07-02-2013, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NS370Z

Damn, those are tight bleeder valves. Did you mean 70 in-lbs?

Yes.

NS370Z · 07-02-2013, 07:00 PM

A quick conversion gives 7.9 N*m approx = 70 inch*pounds or 5.8 foot pounds.

ChrisSlicks · 07-02-2013, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NS370Z

A quick conversion gives 7.9 N*m approx = 70 inch*pounds or 5.8 foot pounds.

Yes it is 70 inch pounds per the manual (the wrench icon is black indicating inch-pounds not white for foot-pounds).

At 70 foot-pounds you would probably snap the bleeders right off (12x over spec).

37Z · 07-02-2013, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NS370Z

Damn, those are tight bleeder valves. Did you mean 70 in-lbs?

An option is to install speed bleeders. Some good & bad issues though!

NS370Z · 07-02-2013, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37Z

An option is to install speed bleeders. Some good & bad issues though!

I researched these briefly a few weeks ago. Looked at Russell Speed Bleeders but I couldn't find a part number for the Z.

kenchan · 03-14-2014, 09:13 AM

yah and dont forget you got 2 valves per caliper on the akebono's

2011_6Spd · 04-08-2014, 10:46 PM

Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY. I ordered my stuff the other night and can't wait to flush my brakes myself.

Jason · 03-23-2015, 06:32 AM

Thanks for this awesome DIY. I bled my brakes yesterday and I thinkeverything went smoothly. Prior to bleeding, I installed new rotors and pads. After bleeding the brakes, I was able to push the brake pedal all the way to the ground before it started to feel firm. It's firm now and the car stops great.

My question is, would pumping the brakes before I started bleeding them have resulted in better pedal feel? In other words, did that initial pump of the brake pedal that went to the floor cause air to be introduced into the system? Should I re-bleed my brakes?

07-16-2013, 11:12 AM	#3 (permalink)
DavidInIndy Base Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Fishers, Indiana Posts: 99 Drives: 10 Touring Roadster Rep Power: 13	OK, got it. Thx JARBlue and ChrisSlicks. __________________ My favorite part of the day: being late for work. 2010 Z Touring Roadster \| 7AT \| Monterey Blue

07-01-2013, 08:17 AM	#6 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	I just did this the other week during front rotor and pad replacement. The only thing I'll add here that I didn't see is that the bleeder valves are supposed to be torqued to 70 ft-lbs in-lbs. Also, I borrowed a friend's power bleeder and the hose attached to the main reservoir busted on me when I was just about to start the last corner. It sprayed me in the face (that's what she said) and got on my fender paint as well - I had to scramble to get a towel and some cleaner to wipe it off quickly. Just a friendly reminder to check the condition of your equipment __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 07-02-2013 at 09:13 PM.

03-14-2014, 09:13 AM	#13 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	yah and dont forget you got 2 valves per caliper on the akebono's BeemaaZ likes this.

04-08-2014, 10:46 PM	#14 (permalink)
2011_6Spd Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Orlando, FL Age: 44 Posts: 124 Drives: 2011 370z 6spd sport Rep Power: 15	Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY. I ordered my stuff the other night and can't wait to flush my brakes myself. __________________ 2011 Brilliant Silver 6spd w/sport pkg 2008 Silver CBR600RR

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07-17-2013, 01:26 AM	#4 (permalink)
1325 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 287 Drives: 10 370Z BLK 6M Rep Power: 15	I'm going to piggy-back off AK's tutorial for the base brakes. The only contribution I have is that the front bleeder screws are 10mm and the rears are 5/16 (8mm). Used Valvoline Synthetic. Thanks AK for your write-up.

07-02-2013, 07:00 PM	#9 (permalink)
NS370Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Milky Way Posts: 249 Drives: Red Corvette C7 Rep Power: 14	A quick conversion gives 7.9 Nm approx = 70 inchpounds or 5.8 foot pounds.

03-23-2015, 06:32 AM	#15 (permalink)
Jason Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 309 Drives: Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 17	Thanks for this awesome DIY. I bled my brakes yesterday and I thinkeverything went smoothly. Prior to bleeding, I installed new rotors and pads. After bleeding the brakes, I was able to push the brake pedal all the way to the ground before it started to feel firm. It's firm now and the car stops great. My question is, would pumping the brakes before I started bleeding them have resulted in better pedal feel? In other words, did that initial pump of the brake pedal that went to the floor cause air to be introduced into the system? Should I re-bleed my brakes?