Installing ARP wheel studs

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF

yeah ARP's are 25mm longer than stock. You maybe be able to squeeze in a 20mm without pulling the hub in the rear. Nice breaker bar though, I actually had to pull out the suspension arms and axle to get my straight breaker bar to work. One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

I took the pictures before I put the bungee cord on.

I forgot to include the torque specs. Thanks!

That break bar is a SnapOn flex head ratchet.

Rangerz · 02-08-2015, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

Where are you referencing the axle nut spec? FSM states 74 to 77 Ft Lbs?

FSM RAX page 8 toward the bottom.

Just did this install and torques to 77 ft lbs. Would like to know where 133 is stated.

Thanks

1st · 04-04-2013, 12:23 PM

Good work bro thanks for the knowledge.

kenchan · 04-04-2013, 01:14 PM

wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts.

LOL I only cut the one off to see. I'm using the open ended ones from Z1.

kenchan · 04-04-2013, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

LOL I only cut the one off to see. I'm using the open ended ones from Z1.

scruffydog · 04-04-2013, 05:23 PM

thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends!

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scruffydog

thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends!

I had you in mind when I was posting this.

scruffydog · 04-13-2013, 09:33 PM

Ah, so for the rear you did need to remove the big axle nut to make room around the CV drum for the 4 bolts. Hmm, I don't have an impact gun to remove the axle nut and I already removed all the OEM studs to put the car back on wheels to break the nut off.

Scratching head as to what to do.

Rusty · 04-13-2013, 09:46 PM

YEA!!! LOL It's the 32mm nut I was talking about. You can put 2 studs part way in, and use a pry bar between them to hold the flange from turning.

scruffydog · 04-14-2013, 12:27 AM

yea I may need to do that or borrow a friends air compressor for impact. But it's over 130 lb-ft so will see if it'll do the trick. Ill have to wedge some nuts on the OEM studs to give that a try tomorrow. Ill keep you updates thanks for the help!

scruffydog · 04-14-2013, 10:03 PM

Yay, I finally got it off and I do need to take the axle nut off with an impact after all. I cannot get access to the 4 wheel hub screws with a 3/8 17mm socket without pushing the CV Joint back a little (which meant I needed to remove the Axle nut). It was a piece of cake once I borrowed an air compressor from a friend. Looks like that'll be my next toy to get. Thanks for all the help.

Rusty · 04-14-2013, 10:22 PM

Hey, no problem.

The axle has to come off anyway to remove the unit bearing. With the nut off. you found out that you got a little more room to work with.

edconline · 11-26-2013, 01:26 AM

Thanks for this write up! I'll be making use of it shortly, after I drill out the 3 studs per side on the front wheels to get them off

I'm looking at the ARP studs also, but I really don't want any stud protrusion with the lugs. Do you think R40's would be deep enough that none of the stud would poke? It seems a bit ridiculous ARP doesn't make them in a shorter length.

VDC_OFF · 11-26-2013, 10:09 AM

depends on if you are using spacers or not. It may poke out a little without spacers.

04-04-2013, 12:23 PM	#3 (permalink)
1st A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: I 80 Biz U.S. 50 Posts: 1,710 Drives: Platinum Z Rep Power: 1618	Good work bro thanks for the knowledge. Rusty likes this.

04-04-2013, 01:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141523	wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts. Themitchman3 likes this.

04-04-2013, 05:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 719	thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends! __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-13-2013, 09:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 719	Ah, so for the rear you did need to remove the big axle nut to make room around the CV drum for the 4 bolts. Hmm, I don't have an impact gun to remove the axle nut and I already removed all the OEM studs to put the car back on wheels to break the nut off. Scratching head as to what to do. __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-13-2013, 09:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,581 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	YEA!!! LOL It's the 32mm nut I was talking about. You can put 2 studs part way in, and use a pry bar between them to hold the flange from turning. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

04-14-2013, 12:27 AM	#11 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 719	yea I may need to do that or borrow a friends air compressor for impact. But it's over 130 lb-ft so will see if it'll do the trick. Ill have to wedge some nuts on the OEM studs to give that a try tomorrow. Ill keep you updates thanks for the help! __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-14-2013, 10:03 PM	#12 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 719	Yay, I finally got it off and I do need to take the axle nut off with an impact after all. I cannot get access to the 4 wheel hub screws with a 3/8 17mm socket without pushing the CV Joint back a little (which meant I needed to remove the Axle nut). It was a piece of cake once I borrowed an air compressor from a friend. Looks like that'll be my next toy to get. Thanks for all the help. __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-14-2013, 10:22 PM	#13 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,581 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	Hey, no problem. The axle has to come off anyway to remove the unit bearing. With the nut off. you found out that you got a little more room to work with. scruffydog likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-26-2013, 01:26 AM	#14 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 24	Thanks for this write up! I'll be making use of it shortly, after I drill out the 3 studs per side on the front wheels to get them off I'm looking at the ARP studs also, but I really don't want any stud protrusion with the lugs. Do you think R40's would be deep enough that none of the stud would poke? It seems a bit ridiculous ARP doesn't make them in a shorter length. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

11-26-2013, 10:09 AM	#15 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 46 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 19	depends on if you are using spacers or not. It may poke out a little without spacers. __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

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