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DIY: Weight reduction/Fix hatch not opening issue

Btw...good write up to the OP.

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Old 11-06-2012, 07:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Btw...good write up to the OP.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZForce View Post
Btw...good write up to the OP.
Thanks, this is my first write after looking at tens of other DIYs... First one being to change the start button, and I didn't understand it for the life of me... A local cycy89 showed me pics of his install and told me to look at his DIY with a lot of pictures and it made it infinitely better



Edit: this was my 1000th post! Lol

Last edited by DEpointfive0; 11-07-2012 at 01:38 AM. Reason: 1000th post!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
LOL!!! I've gone well past 100MPH without the weight there.
And for sure going to the dealer is easier, but this is a nice two for one. Useless weight

If you have the panel tool you can take the weight out in maybe 5 min. If I were to use a credit card instead of panel tool maybe a tid bit longer
I was kidding regarding the hatch flying off.

Wonder why the weight is there in the first place?


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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
Thanks, this is my first write after looking at tens of other DIYs... First one being to change the start button, and I didn't understand it for the life of me... A local cycy89 showed me pics of his install and told me to look at his DIY with a lot of pictures and it made it infinitely better



Edit: this was my 1000th post! Lol
Congrats and very good first write up of DIY. That's one more than me.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I was kidding regarding the hatch flying off.

Wonder why the weight is there in the first place?
Lol, I know you were joking

And the only thing I can assume is it was designed for petit women in Japan.

I close my hatch by pulling down on the hatch lock loop thing and it doesn't feel any harder to close the hatch without the weight
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Great DIY - clear explanation and good pics. Repped.

I am still a bit confused about the removal of the panel. This would probably be obvious if I were performing the procedure, but I'm not quite sure if you stick both arms in there, one on each side, and pop the whole thing off at once or one side at a time. Maybe I'm just being dense - everything else was explained very well.

I've broken way too many clips and other interior panel attachments to feel comfortable doing this myself, so I just sent a link to this thread with a request for estimate to my favorite body shop. I've spent over $20K there in the last year and figure they ought to do it pretty cheap.
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Great DIY - clear explanation and good pics. Repped.

I am still a bit confused about the removal of the panel. This would probably be obvious if I were performing the procedure, but I'm not quite sure if you stick both arms in there, one on each side, and pop the whole thing off at once or one side at a time. Maybe I'm just being dense - everything else was explained very well.

I've broken way too many clips and other interior panel attachments to feel comfortable doing this myself, so I just sent a link to this thread with a request for estimate to my favorite body shop. I've spent over $20K there in the last year and figure they ought to do it pretty cheap.
LOL, thanks for the rep, if you have a panel tool, it's REALLY easy and quite hard to break a clip.
If you want a better walk through, give me a call or shoot me a text (310)893-4207
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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LOL, thanks for the rep, if you have a panel tool, it's REALLY easy and quite hard to break a clip.
If you want a better walk through, give me a call or shoot me a text (310)893-4207
I appreciate the offer, but when the body shop does it so inexpensively*, why get my fumble fingers into the mix?


*for $50 they R&Red all the panels from the seats back so I could install sound damping. I'm guessing they'll want $25-50 (whatever their minimum is) for this job.
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It looks like a mass damper to eliminate some resonance, rattle or vibration. Maybe from the exhaust at certain engine speeds of from road input.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It looks like a mass damper to eliminate some resonance, rattle or vibration. Maybe from the exhaust at certain engine speeds of from road input.
I've been told that it's to help petit women on Japan to close the hatch. Why it's rubberized and overly complicated, not a clue
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It may serve more than one purpose. Since the hatch is light-weight Aluminum, the weight may give the hatch some extra inertia to make the latch when closing. It can give the consumer the impression of higher quality (hatch doesn't feel as flimsy and has a bigger "thunk" when it closes). Personally, I like Enough's anti-NVH theory.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enough View Post
It looks like a mass damper to eliminate some resonance, rattle or vibration. Maybe from the exhaust at certain engine speeds of from road input.
Good thread- this is almost certainly the function of this part rather than making the hatch easier to close. If that was their aim, why not simply make the gas struts less strong.

Lots of oems use mass dampers for NVH reasons, limiting vibration or resonance.
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Good thread- this is almost certainly the function of this part rather than making the hatch easier to close. If that was their aim, why not simply make the gas struts less strong.

Lots of oems use mass dampers for NVH reasons, limiting vibration or resonance.
Maybe, but some have it, some don't, and it makes literally díck difference on NVH
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Just removed the weight. Every little bit counts! Thanks DE.
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