DIY: of complete FOG LAMP install

LunaZ · 04-18-2010, 08:00 PM

OK, I'm now part of the rear fog light club!

After fighting with the dummy light, I was finally able to get to to removing some interior panels and running wires.
My hookup was simple since all I wanted the light to do was go on and off. Using the wiring harness with relay and switch available from The Z Store, I ran my wiring through a grommet on the passenger side where I spliced the hot wire the driver side license plate light wiring as demonstrated earlier in the thread. Then, I ran the wires and plug for the fog lamp between the aluminum bumper and styrofoam behind the rear fascia. I facilitated this route by popping off the rear tow hook plate and cutting out a channel in the styrofoam so the plug could slide down easily. This keeps everything neat and safe from the heat of the exhaust.
By the way, when I popped off the plate covering the tow hook mounting point, there wasn't a hole to screw the tow hook into. Weird.

simota1 · 04-18-2010, 09:48 PM

looks great

G35guy84 · 05-06-2010, 11:23 AM

I've got the rear fog light ready to install, but I first took it to Radio Shack and the Nissan service dept. and neither place knew what gauge wire to use to splice the fog wire to the license plate wire. Does anyone here know what gauge to use?

simota1 · 05-06-2010, 04:19 PM

16 gauge or 14 gauge is good... i think 14 gauge would be a lil over kill though

SigPapa226 · 05-06-2010, 06:46 PM

Courtesy of West Marine

Even the experts have to check occasionally on the correct gauge of wire for a given marine DC load. The simplest method we've found uses the charts below. Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes.
• Select either the 10% or 3% voltage drop chart, based on the type of load you are running.
• Next, find the current consumption of the load on the vertical axis of the chart.
• Find the length of the circuit on the horizontal axis of the chart, noting that the length is the "round trip" distance from the panel or battery to the load and back.
• The color of the graph at the intersection denotes the gauge of wire to use.

We've included copper wire specifications which comply with the AWG standards at the bottom. Of particular interest is the equation: Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot

This simple equation allows you to calculate the voltage drop for a circuit of any length and any current flow, if you know the resistance of the wire. Finally, note that the amp capacity of the wire curtails using very short lengths of wire for large current flows, as show by the "flat tops" of the 10% chart areas.

wire graph.jpg

Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes.

These simple, proprietary graphs assume:
• 105ºC insulation rating: All Ancor wire uses 105ºC insulation rating. Lower temperature insulation cannot handle as much current (the flat tops on the 10% graph would be lower than shown)
• AWG wire sizes: Not SAE All Ancor wire uses AWG wire sizes. SAE wire sizes are 6%-12% smaller, carry proportionally less current, and have greater resistance
• Wires are not run in engine spaces: Maximum current is 15% less in engine spaces, which are assumed to be 20¼C hotter than nonengine spaces (50¼C vs. 30¼C).
• Conductors are not bundled: If three conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 30%. If 4-6 conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 40%. If 7-24 conductors are bundled, reduce amperage by 50%.
AWG Wire Specs

jadeb0x · 06-08-2010, 06:59 PM

thanks for the info and diagrams, it made my install a lot easier. i installed mine as a 4th brake light with parking light feature, no flash. i did use male/female connectors so that if i wanted to add a flasher later it wouldn't be so hard to do.

anyhow, my extra tip... i used the tan 7443 harness end from the original Lexus IS300/Altezza brake light to obtain the low/high intensity (sourced from a junkyard). i had to shave the circumference of the harness down, and took out 2 of the locking prongs. it eventually sat snug and even locked into place within the light.

for wiring, i used the diagram that was previously provided here and of course i skipped over the flasher. hook up as follows:

nissan red wire - lexus green wire
nissan green wire - lexus green/white wire
nissan black wire - lexus white/black wire

as for the bolts, i didn't have any problem removing mine, just a little TLC with the removal. good luck with your installs and thanks again!

jadeb0x · 12-27-2010, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jadeb0x

thanks for the info and diagrams, it made my install a lot easier. i installed mine as a 4th brake light with parking light feature, no flash. i did use male/female connectors so that if i wanted to add a flasher later it wouldn't be so hard to do.

anyhow, my extra tip... i used the tan 7443 harness end from the original Lexus IS300/Altezza brake light to obtain the low/high intensity (sourced from a junkyard). i had to shave the circumference of the harness down, and took out 2 of the locking prongs. it eventually sat snug and even locked into place within the light.

for wiring, i used the diagram that was previously provided here and of course i skipped over the flasher. hook up as follows:

nissan red wire - lexus green wire
nissan green wire - lexus green/white wire
nissan black wire - lexus white/black wire

as for the bolts, i didn't have any problem removing mine, just a little TLC with the removal. good luck with your installs and thanks again!

here's what i did to achieve that "brighter when brakes applied" look

LMBmikeZ · 12-27-2010, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simota1

i believe you would need a dual filament bulb and a plug that would match it and wire the brighter filment to when you hit the brakes it will light up.... did that make sense?

yep

that's exactly what I am thinking! I am just wondering if it has been done yet and tested so I can just do it quick with out coming up with my own solution!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jadeb0x

here's what i did to achieve that "brighter when brakes applied" look

Thanks jadeb0x! sweet that looks like it should work thanks man!!!

Calvin · 08-10-2010, 02:34 PM

quick question,
in order to remove the taillights, i have to remove the panels to get to the inner bolt right?

simota1 · 08-10-2010, 04:41 PM

yup

ZeeCar · 09-03-2010, 09:15 PM

For any of the 2010 guys with the dummy harness already in the rear from the factory this picture shows which wire (beige) to splice to make "hot". The ground from the harness is functional. I just spliced my install into the mint green wire on the taillight harness (will make it function as a 4th brake light). BTW this is on the passenger side.

simota1 · 09-03-2010, 10:22 PM

good info bro!!!!

ProfessorDave · 11-22-2010, 06:22 PM

OK, so I've read through this thread twice. There is so much great information. The problem is I have elementary electronic skills, and am looking for advice about a very specific application.

I recently ordered the EVO-R flashing fog light. It comes with two hot leads: one to make the light blink, the other to make the fog come on solid. I want to make the light blink when in reverse (pretty sure I know how to do that). I want to make the solid option switched.

So, my question is, do I need the fog light harness and switch for the solid option? Or is there a simpler solution (e.g, switch wired into access. power under center console, connected to fuse to hot lead)?

I have done some car wiring and can run and connect any kind of line or low voltage home wiring. But I'm confused about how to solve this, and would rather not spend the $ on the Z store harness if I don't have to.

Thanks!

ProfessorDave · 11-25-2010, 08:33 PM

(sorry for the double post)
OK, so I've refined my idea a bit. I've ordered the "synchronizer switch" which is the S-mode console switch to the upper right of the shifter (I do not have the sport package, so all I have there now is the blank). I plan to wire this switch to the EVO-R LED rear foglight. I will probably use the yellow accessory wire that runs in the bundle through the center console.

I need someone to tell me if I have this right: I will tap into the yellow wire, and run this first to an inline fuse (how much? 1 amp? 2 amps?), then to the switch. From the switch I will run a line back to the hot lead of the foglight.

Sound right?

ChrisSlicks · 11-25-2010, 09:19 PM

You can't use the S-mode switch because it is not latching, it is a momentary switch. Without a logic circuit you will need a latching switch.

04-18-2010, 08:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
LunaZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Vagabond Posts: 6,704 Drives: Project: a white one Rep Power: 514	OK, I'm now part of the rear fog light club! After fighting with the dummy light, I was finally able to get to to removing some interior panels and running wires. My hookup was simple since all I wanted the light to do was go on and off. Using the wiring harness with relay and switch available from The Z Store, I ran my wiring through a grommet on the passenger side where I spliced the hot wire the driver side license plate light wiring as demonstrated earlier in the thread. Then, I ran the wires and plug for the fog lamp between the aluminum bumper and styrofoam behind the rear fascia. I facilitated this route by popping off the rear tow hook plate and cutting out a channel in the styrofoam so the plug could slide down easily. This keeps everything neat and safe from the heat of the exhaust. By the way, when I popped off the plate covering the tow hook mounting point, there wasn't a hole to screw the tow hook into. Weird. __________________ 2009 370Z Sport/Touring/Navigation \| see my journal for mods facebook: Be my friend... or not.

04-18-2010, 09:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 407	looks great __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

05-06-2010, 11:23 AM	#3 (permalink)
G35guy84 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 305 Drives: '09 370Z 7AT Sprt PW Rep Power: 17	I've got the rear fog light ready to install, but I first took it to Radio Shack and the Nissan service dept. and neither place knew what gauge wire to use to splice the fog wire to the license plate wire. Does anyone here know what gauge to use? __________________ '09 Nissan 370Z Base 7AT - Sport Package - Pearl White \| Performance Mods: Stillen G3 CAI \| F.I. HFC \| F.I. TDX CBE w/ 18" resonators \| Megan Racing coilover kit \| Ichiba rear camber kit \| 20mm front / 25mm rear H&R spacers \| Aesthetic Mods: White interior/license plate LEDs \| 6000K bulbs \| 20% tint

05-06-2010, 04:19 PM	#4 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 407	16 gauge or 14 gauge is good... i think 14 gauge would be a lil over kill though __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

05-06-2010, 06:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
SigPapa226 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 205 Drives: 300 ZXTT, 370 ZR Rep Power: 17	Courtesy of West Marine Even the experts have to check occasionally on the correct gauge of wire for a given marine DC load. The simplest method we've found uses the charts below. Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes. • Select either the 10% or 3% voltage drop chart, based on the type of load you are running. • Next, find the current consumption of the load on the vertical axis of the chart. • Find the length of the circuit on the horizontal axis of the chart, noting that the length is the "round trip" distance from the panel or battery to the load and back. • The color of the graph at the intersection denotes the gauge of wire to use. We've included copper wire specifications which comply with the AWG standards at the bottom. Of particular interest is the equation: Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot This simple equation allows you to calculate the voltage drop for a circuit of any length and any current flow, if you know the resistance of the wire. Finally, note that the amp capacity of the wire curtails using very short lengths of wire for large current flows, as show by the "flat tops" of the 10% chart areas. wire graph.jpg Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes. These simple, proprietary graphs assume: • 105ºC insulation rating: All Ancor wire uses 105ºC insulation rating. Lower temperature insulation cannot handle as much current (the flat tops on the 10% graph would be lower than shown) • AWG wire sizes: Not SAE All Ancor wire uses AWG wire sizes. SAE wire sizes are 6%-12% smaller, carry proportionally less current, and have greater resistance • Wires are not run in engine spaces: Maximum current is 15% less in engine spaces, which are assumed to be 20¼C hotter than nonengine spaces (50¼C vs. 30¼C). • Conductors are not bundled: If three conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 30%. If 4-6 conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 40%. If 7-24 conductors are bundled, reduce amperage by 50%. AWG Wire Specs __________________ Black 300ZX TT Stock + Megan CBE; Black Cherry 370Z Roadster, 6MT, Touring, Sport, Nav., 3-way Fog Light (Running, brake & flashing backup), Triple Tone Air Horns. Last edited by SigPapa226; 05-06-2010 at 06:54 PM.

06-08-2010, 06:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
jadeb0x Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 136 Drives: 09 370Z PW M6 Rep Power: 17	thanks for the info and diagrams, it made my install a lot easier. i installed mine as a 4th brake light with parking light feature, no flash. i did use male/female connectors so that if i wanted to add a flasher later it wouldn't be so hard to do. anyhow, my extra tip... i used the tan 7443 harness end from the original Lexus IS300/Altezza brake light to obtain the low/high intensity (sourced from a junkyard). i had to shave the circumference of the harness down, and took out 2 of the locking prongs. it eventually sat snug and even locked into place within the light. for wiring, i used the diagram that was previously provided here and of course i skipped over the flasher. hook up as follows: nissan red wire - lexus green wire nissan green wire - lexus green/white wire nissan black wire - lexus white/black wire as for the bolts, i didn't have any problem removing mine, just a little TLC with the removal. good luck with your installs and thanks again!

08-10-2010, 02:34 PM	#9 (permalink)
Calvin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Age: 35 Posts: 1,418 Drives: 4GS, R8v10 Rep Power: 19	quick question, in order to remove the taillights, i have to remove the panels to get to the inner bolt right? __________________ BUILD THREAD SPONSORED BY: SPEEDELEMENT

08-10-2010, 04:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 407	yup __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

09-03-2010, 09:15 PM	#11 (permalink)
ZeeCar Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Federal Way, WA Posts: 26 Drives: 2010 370z PW 6MT Rep Power: 16	For any of the 2010 guys with the dummy harness already in the rear from the factory this picture shows which wire (beige) to splice to make "hot". The ground from the harness is functional. I just spliced my install into the mint green wire on the taillight harness (will make it function as a 4th brake light). BTW this is on the passenger side. __________________ 2010 370z PW 6MT She's Still a Virgin

09-03-2010, 10:22 PM	#12 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 407	good info bro!!!! __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

11-22-2010, 06:22 PM	#13 (permalink)
ProfessorDave A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Scranton, PA Posts: 1,580 Drives: In the fairway Rep Power: 20	OK, so I've read through this thread twice. There is so much great information. The problem is I have elementary electronic skills, and am looking for advice about a very specific application. I recently ordered the EVO-R flashing fog light. It comes with two hot leads: one to make the light blink, the other to make the fog come on solid. I want to make the light blink when in reverse (pretty sure I know how to do that). I want to make the solid option switched. So, my question is, do I need the fog light harness and switch for the solid option? Or is there a simpler solution (e.g, switch wired into access. power under center console, connected to fuse to hot lead)? I have done some car wiring and can run and connect any kind of line or low voltage home wiring. But I'm confused about how to solve this, and would rather not spend the $ on the Z store harness if I don't have to. Thanks! __________________ Rain, snow, sleet, hail: 2009 Mazda 3 sGT HB Everything else: 2009 370z, PW Touring 6MT

11-25-2010, 08:33 PM	#14 (permalink)
ProfessorDave A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Scranton, PA Posts: 1,580 Drives: In the fairway Rep Power: 20	(sorry for the double post) OK, so I've refined my idea a bit. I've ordered the "synchronizer switch" which is the S-mode console switch to the upper right of the shifter (I do not have the sport package, so all I have there now is the blank). I plan to wire this switch to the EVO-R LED rear foglight. I will probably use the yellow accessory wire that runs in the bundle through the center console. I need someone to tell me if I have this right: I will tap into the yellow wire, and run this first to an inline fuse (how much? 1 amp? 2 amps?), then to the switch. From the switch I will run a line back to the hot lead of the foglight. Sound right? __________________ Rain, snow, sleet, hail: 2009 Mazda 3 sGT HB Everything else: 2009 370z, PW Touring 6MT

11-25-2010, 09:19 PM	#15 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 655	You can't use the S-mode switch because it is not latching, it is a momentary switch. Without a logic circuit you will need a latching switch. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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