DIY: 2009 - 2010 Steering Wheel Lock Fix w/ Pics!

Hi-Step'n370Z

Thank you for the clarification on the harness replacement. Now I know that no matter the fix that's chosen, the lock has to remain in-line.

Re: theft coverage; of course running it by the insurance company is the thing to do. I just added it to possibly help those who didn't think about it, and just did the disable procedure. If they did know that a claim may be denied because of the disable, but chose to do it anyway, then they knew the possible risk.

Have you seen the harness by-pass from Car Kit? It looks like the way to go. Simple to do, and simple to revert back should one want to someday. On their web page, they have a great video showing the whole, very simple, procedure. I'd be interested in hearing how you feel about the harness.

Here's the web address:
Steering Lock Harness - Car Kit Company[/B]]Steering Lock Harness - Car Kit Company

SouthArk370Z

I have only seen pictures of the bypass but based on the feedback on this site it is a well-built product, that, as you say, is simple to install and uninstall.

Which is better, bypass or fuse, is a toss up, IMNSHO. The IPDM (where the fuse is) is not the easiest thing to get to but it's not that difficult and it's not like you will be removing/inserting the fuse often (probably only once). The main advantage that I see to the fuse method is cost - $0 vs $50.

Either method will accomplish exactly the same thing - cutting power to the ESCL motor - so go with whichever one you prefer.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

Hi-Step'n370Z

After reading what seemed like a million posts, I've decided to buy the harness by-pass cable from Car Kit.

But I do have a question; is there a difference between cutting the brown wire, which essentially is what the by-pass cable does, and pulling the fuse?

I ask this because of one of the posts I read that reported problems that resulted after pulling the fuse.

It said, in at least one reported case, that with pulling the fuse, the passenger air bag, and or, the child safety seat may not work properly.

And also that there was a slight delay from when the start button was pushed, and the engine actually cranked over, but stated that it doesn't happen all the time, and the delay is short.

So, is there a difference in the circuit flow / operation between cutting the brown wire, and pulling the fuse?

I'd appreciate some clarity on this from someone who's more tech savvy regarding this issue than I am. Thanks.

SouthArk370Z

Electrically, no.

As far as I know (and I've been keeping up with ESCL posts), that is the only report and I'm inclined to believe that it was not related to the ESCL fuse. They may have knocked some wire(s) loose while pulling the fuse, but the fuse powers only the ESCL motor.

While a few people (myself included) have reported a slight delay on occasion when starting, there is no evidence to prove that it is related to pulling the fuse. Even if pulling the fuse is causing the delay, I consider it a non-issue - it happens infrequently and is only for a second or two.

No. The cut is in a different physical location, but electrically, it is the same.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

Hi-Step'n370Z

Thanks for all the detail, SouthArk370Z.

My next step is to disable the lock and be done with it.

If the RevD - or any other replacement lock - was so great, why did Nissan discontinue the lock altogether in 2012? Because they couldn't get it manufactured correctly.

Even though I have the RevD, which is supposed to be "the fix", I don't trust it. There were obviously manufacturing problems that just couldn't be corrected, so they eliminated the lock altogether, which makes it wise, in my opinion, to not trust any of them any longer than you need to.

Cut the wire, pull the fuse, or buy and install the by-pass harness, but disable that lock.

Bye the way, I've been on this Forum since it's beginning and I don't understand how it took all these years for me to notice the lock problem. I'm just glad I did, and appreciate the Forum for providing it's usual great information. (and in this case, it's patients, while helping me navigate through an old and worn topic)

This Forum's been a great asset to the 370Z enthusiast. I'd like to give a shout-out to it's founder, AK370Z, for all his hard work and dedication in getting the Forum up and running back in "09.

On a lighter note; I also want to add that Michelin Super Sports do burn-out's way better than the Bridgestone's!

Thanks again to all!