:happydance: Thank you for all your hard work my good man, reps to you...:tiphat:

Received and installed mine today! Quick and easy

I can't wait for mine....:excited:

same here. thanks for the research and development of this product. :tup:

I just got the kit in the mail and it only took a few minutes to install

Thank You for taking the time to make this option possible :tup:

Got mine today and installed in minutes, works as designed. One note, the tab to remove OEM plug is on top, I fiddled a little trying to remove plug until I found it. I can relax now and not worry about getting stranded.

Hi,

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty well spent!

The harness or cut the wire: the best solution by far.

On another "for real" thread, there's regrets about the harness 50 USD.

I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, can cost a fortune.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at the heart of your electrical systems.

Further you can change nothing without much work and interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Fritz

Why don't you read the wiring diagram Fritz and get back with us on the other thread.

I would love to hear your explanation of when fuse 48 is removed the damage it will do.

Tic doc clocks ticking.:rolleyes:

Please explain how installing the harness as you did is any different from pulling a fuse. Both cut power to the source. A dealer may also have a hugh problem installing a harness in such a manner.

I guess we all should stop modding period.

Ordered and paid. Thanks for developing this item. Owners with this harness seem pleased. Looking forward to it. :driving:

I've resisted posting too much on any of these threads because I didn't want to be seen as biased. Despite what some people may think I made very little to nothing on this and really only created it when existing customers of my other kits asked if I could help. If there is no further interest in the harness I will simply just stop offering them so please don't see this as favoring one solution over another.

Anyway, to answer the question that a couple of people have asked; I did point out in the other thread what the difference was. Fritz's solution is to cut the power to the steering lock unit, my harness does exactly the same but doesn't require the harness itself to be cut. Removing the fuse is different in that it cuts the power further upstream and the one difference that I could see (doesn't mean there aren't others) is that:

• When you pull the fuse the relay isn't activated anymore (that may not matter)
• The feed from the relay goes to 1) The CPU (see blue arrow below) and 2) the Steering lock

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...4327pm-BDL.png

So the difference is:

• When cutting the wire (whether actually or via harness) it simply removes power from the steering lock
• When pulling the fuse it stops power going to the relay, the CPU and the steering lock.

I have my theories of what the feed to the CPU is but they are just that, theories. I suspect that the feed to the CPU is to confirm that the relay activated and the power is going to the steering lock. When cutting the wire the CPU will still get that signal but the steering lock doesn't get the power. I know it is has been confirmed that the "pull the fuse" method doesn't throw a CEL but has anyone connected a Consult III/IV and seen if it gives any errors? I would expect the CPU to log the fact that it issued the command to activate the relay (wire above the blue arrow) but it doesn't get the feed (blue arrow) to confirm it was energized. I'm speaking from experience of what I would do if I was writing the CPU code but that doesn't mean Nissan did the same.

Again I really don't mind what solution people use, I'm just pointing out the differences as people have asked. The harness is certainly the most expensive in terms of parts at $50, but then of course it would be because we are adding something not taking something away. I do believe the harness has more pros than the other solutions and probably the only con is the cost and that was kept as cheap as possible.

Thanks again for your all your hard work sir. :tiphat:

Well said. Very understandable.

I will vouch for the quality of BDL99's harness. If you bought something like this at an auto parts store, it would cost you double, at Nissan probably triple. I am happy with my purchase.

I read about the fuse pull solution after I ordered the harness. I contemplated pulling the fuse while I waited, but decided to wait for two reasons. One is I wanted to wait to see if there were any side effects on the fuse pull (there is, a delay from start button push until crank for some) and the fuse box is not one that has easy access like under the dash or top of the engine bay.

So if you have not made a move to disable the steering lock, you can pull the steering lock fuse which currently seems to cause a slight delay in engine start or buy the harness. One is free and the other cost you 50 bucks. I would maybe wait some to see if there is more info on the fuse pull delay, especially if your car is still in warranty.

I would say the harness install would be easier having reviewed both instructions and having done the harness install. Tugging up and out on the battery compartment fusebox attached to the main wiring harness worried me a little but would not have prevented me from doing it if that was the only solution.

If you have the troubled older steering lock, ya got to do one of the two or you are sitting on a time bomb ready to go off at the worse time and location and it will cost you over 500 bucks plus wrecker.

I'd be happy to remove the hole steering lock if I could. I know it can be done somehow. But...........