Is this is all you can say, then you are too self-assured about knowledge.

Installed BDL's kit yesterday. Hardest thing about the install is becoming a contortionist to maneuver both hands under the dash :icon14:

Simple install and I can rest easy that the Z will not leave me stranded

Before doing that or drawing any conclusions it would be better to get a bigger sample size if you can, you currently have an n=1 based on what you said. The beauty of the plug and play harness is it can easy be restored to factory state either by re-connecting the brown wire (as you did) or completely remove the harness. There are so many other variables here that could be in play (fuel, temp, driving conditions, the throttle pedal is close to where you are installing etc) and when measuring something subjective this is also even harder. Temporarily installing a switch would allow you to compare with and without brown wire connected much more easily and also remove some of those other variables. It will still be a subjective measurement but at least the n will be higher. With a switch you could even do a blind trial with a passenger controlling the state of the switch and scientifically put any psychosomatic theories to bed :)

This would be very easy to do and i'd be interested in the results.

You must not know what the word even means.:shakes head:

That was really said in jest but would be interesting. I've had my fair share of these experiences. When I was working on a front camera kit for the GT-R I was convinced there was something different after installing in my car. Either the throttle or the bite on the clutch appeared different. I was sure that I must have done something or disturbed something. Even though logic told me there was no logical connection I was all ready to rip everything out and go to the dealer. It was the wife that said "why don't you leave it and come and have a cup of tea" (very English). So I did and then went for a drive and when I got back everything was fine and nothing since. Still to this day I don't know if I imagined it or if it was just one of those DCT glitches but I automatically associated it with the the last thing that I had done.

Yep, double-blind is the only way to scientifically test if you want to take the human factor out of the equation. More than likely it was just the heat of the day robbing the car of power, it happens pretty often in high compression engines (engine pulls timing to prevent problems). It would be quick and easy to wire up a temporary switch with long leads to the passenger seat if you really want to test it.

:iagree: I think that guy should give this a try and see.

Some guys swear by power increases with an oil change. :stirthepot:

Some guys swear Seafoam works. :eek:

At least with a switch it would either put his mind to ease or identify a real problem if he completely nails the outcome.

Mine came in and the install took all of 5 mins, thanks again everything works without any problems. Many many more reps coming your way...

If I want to order, is it through your site and input my username or is it closed until more arrive? Let me know, looks like a good fix.

That's what i did, i don't know how many he has total but i'm sure he will be able to help you out.

Yes there were a couple of spares from the first batch so you can order via the website and just include you username and I will get it shipped out straight away.

What would be the procedure to reconnect the brown wire ? Would it be:
Engine off, ignition in ACC position which would tell the ECU to "unlock"
Reconnect brown wire
Ignition button back to OFF
Open car door to see if mechanism locks wheel
Ignition to Start to see if mechanism unlocks again

Thanks

Reconnecting the brown wire can be done at any time and the lock will sort its self out. It is only the disconnecting that has different results depending on the state the lock is in when the brown wire is disconnnected

Turning the switch off (disconnecting the brown wire) with the lock disengaged is what most people are looking for, where the lock isn’t in use and therefore can't fail
Turning the switch off (disconnecting the brown wire) with lock engaged would effectively be an additional security measure, because without knowing where the switch is (and turning on) you won't be able to start the car
Turning the switch on (reconnecting the brown wire) the lock will operate as normal, as if the harness was not installed


For example if you reconnected the brown wire while the lock should be off it would stay off and engage the next time it was supposed to.