Steering Lock entry and immobiliser delete (no photos)

fritz

Zero wrote:
Do you know the Panasonic micro switch part number used on this lock mechanism?

Yes: "ASQ11510" on the lock. "ASQ11510J" on the plastic baggy with a new
one inside.....Maybe the "J" is an update ???.
Also on the bag was "699-0160". They turned out to be unexpectedly cheap at 3 or 4 Euros max each.
Yagoogle ASQ11510 for the Panasonic data sheets the last one of which states the suggested uses and that grease/oil are to be avoided.

There's two microswitches either one of which can leave you immobilised.

Let's know how you go!

Fritz

fritz

rhd wrote:
Some DIY pics of this would be nice.

When "on the job" I don't ..er.. stop for photos !

I can write an intruction manual and if you follow it step by step you will have no problems.

...If you do, then private message me.

Fritz

L33T Z34

Nice write up Fritz! Repped. F**7( Nissan for not initiating a RECALL for this problem.

zero

Thanks, Fritz. The switches are normally close. If you removed the switches off the circuit board, they would be normally open. this would pass-by the switches as if the switches were pressed all the time. I saw one guy was doing it and the car started without any problem.

__________________

fritz

Zero wrote
Thanks, Fritz. The switches are normally close. If you removed the switches off the circuit board, they would be normally open. this would pass-by the switches as if the switches were pressed all the time. I saw one guy was doing it and the car started without any problem.

That seems, in effect, to be unplugging the board (or the whole lock) which on my car it is a definite nogo.

The idea's of great interest ! But I think the guy you saw had something else up his sleeve : I'd love to be proved wrong.

When the steering is locked the switches are "released", yes, but
when "released" the "tit" terminal is connected to the outer "hole" terminal on each switch.

When the steering is unlocked the "tit" is pressed so its terminal is connected to the center terminal of the switch.

It is that contact: the slide of the contact which appears to cause the arcing and consequent problems. MMMThe resultant silica prevents "tit" terminal from connecting to the centre....which is the same effect as removing the switchMMM.

Un-soldering each switch is a good idea (if there's no gummt inspection) but then the centre terminal of each switch would have to be connected to the "tit" terminal----a quick, (almost invisible ?) wave of a soldering gun!

Best to buy a switch for disection to understand.
or disect your own. Always there's the faint hope that the center terminals are more b/s to fool us (me).

Switch Disection: The blue plastic covering is about a quarter milimeter (a few "thou") thick. The rest of the switch body is hard black plastic.
Slice off the blue at the "tit" end of the switch and check out the innards.

Doing anything other than what I wrote is a risk to BDM/ECUs or other electronics unless you're a really hi-tech tech (who'd be very, very, welcome!)

Please do give an up-date.

Fritz



hard plastic

fritz

This thread seems forgotten:
Also my thread in March (last year) same thing.

Precis: Stuff the electronics in an eyeglass case: Dump the heavy lock.
The eyeglass case slides neatly to the left and back.

The microswitches: (Some unhelpful sod trying for a hole-in-one said to remove them.......so my other thread died.

Hold the microswitches with a screwed plate (no tape) but they may be U/S
so:

OR slice off the tops-with-the-tits (careful!) of the microswitches (which according to the German Manufacturers (though made in the USA) are unofficially a "problem".

Be sure the "hole" connector (#2 with magnifier) is disconnected. It was very close to the center connector.

Now solder the center connector #3 to the plunger connector #1. Job done, but keep the heat away from the board so solder fast and allow to cool before soldering the next one.

Other possible fail is in the 2 micron relays. probably easy to deal with provided you understand that......

The Brown wire is Positive to lock and Negative to unlock or vise versa.

Further: the board MUST be free of grease. Grease can allow tracking: Use an appropriate circuit board cleaner....but keep it off the relays which are supposed to be sealed: "supposed".

OK fellahs...who'se the next biggie to take pot shots at an old Fritz engineer
who dislikes wars...or insults...or b/s or trolls...so comes back seldom.