DIY: Brake rotor replacement (front)

coolvans1988

Ahhhhhhh soo thats the newer thing on the rotors for the 370z.

I previously had a 350z and getting the rotors was a big pain in the a$$ w/ out a breaker bar or enough space. Glad to know its easier to do rotors and spacers.

nabenson

Thanks for the write-up. I read through it before I started and it took me less than an hour from the time I started pulling out tools until I was done putting them up.

+1 rep

cavemancan

Ok so question: Let's say you have a bit of rust. What tool or tools do you all recommend to remove the rust and make sure the rotor will not wear uneven?

__________________
Mazda Rx8 MT Titanium - SOLD!
2009 370Z T-Sport MT Black - Takeda Intake, Swift springs, Rear Camber kit, SS B Lines, FI Exhaust, Z Speed CMAK Flywheel/Clutch Kit, Stillen Brake Cooling.

ChrisSlicks

If it is rust on the edge just leave it. Rust on the hub face, just leave it and apply a very thin smear of grease to prevent it rusting to the hub. Rust on the braking surface will be gone with a few minutes of driving.

__________________
Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

cavemancan

I mean rust on the Hub face and studs. I got brand new DBA 2 piece 5000 series rotors for the front and 1 piece 4000 series for the rear. They recommend sanding down or using a wire brush to promote even wear on the rotor. They even go as far as to recommend use of a Dial indicator to see if there is any run-out of the rotors once installed. If there is it is recommended to rotate the rotor 1 lug at a time until you get the lowest run out.

__________________
Mazda Rx8 MT Titanium - SOLD!
2009 370Z T-Sport MT Black - Takeda Intake, Swift springs, Rear Camber kit, SS B Lines, FI Exhaust, Z Speed CMAK Flywheel/Clutch Kit, Stillen Brake Cooling.

Ni9TFiVE

So by removing the two 22mm bolts and this one 12mm bolt I should be able to move the caliper without breaking the brake line?

Attached Images

image.jpeg (209.8 KB, 72 views)

370z1

Hey Ni9TFiVE,
I am posting per your request my friend. Yes you are correct you don't have to touch the break line. I replaced my factory rotors with slotted cross drilled rotors and added longer stud bolts for the addition of spacers on both front and rear plus changed break pads all without ever touching the break line. It is a little difficult because the caliper needs to be removed and rested on something so you don't stress the break line. You may want to consider steel braided break lines while you are in there but if not it's ok just to leave the factory lines as is.

Hope this helps, contact me if you have any questions, I will send you my phone number via private message.

Good luck!

370z1
James

LennyK

GREAT INFO - THANKS

__________________

nabenson

Yes, the replacement is very straightforward. It's really as easy as it seems. Remove the bracket holding the brake line to the suspension (shown in your picture). Remove the caliper (I usually just stuck a bucket or block tall enough to sit it on). Sometimes you do have to smack the rotor a couple of times with a rubber mallet to break it free. It will come right off and you put the new one on and reverse the process.

Once the wheel is off it shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes to do the swap. Also, if you ever need to replace your wheel studs this is the same process. Once the rotor is removed you take a hammer and hit the outside end of the stud (the threaded portion that the lug nut screws on to). Smack it a few times and it pops out. You then insert the new stud from the back of the hub, and use one of those wheel stud tools (it's a cheap little thing you can get at any auto parts tool) to use a lug nut to pull ("press") the stud into place.