DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

akmofo · 01-29-2013, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anifaust

It's pouring down rain here today, not so sure I want to lift her skirt and be toying around with fuses at the moment. Do you know what the approximate board clearance there right after the sloped corner in the last picture is? What you used looks like it chewed through the casing rather easily, was that just a regular drill bit? I'm thinking I may give it a go with a grinder tip.

I used a dremel cutting wheel, and drilled into it with my drill, but what really chewed it up was trying to bend the frame to get it apart. Bending the holes I cut cause them to rip, which is why it looked so chewed up. The holes by themselves came out pretty clean before the bending.

You can see in Korrupt's picture here, the board is pretty close to the bottom of the casing.

Also, notice the 6 solder points in a perfect line where the switches are. That should be your guide for where the hole needs to go.

If you do this, let us know. It would actually be a much simpler fix than ripping the whole thing apart. Let me know what size drill bit you use.

Anifaust · 01-29-2013, 04:45 PM

So I went back and re-removed the unit for further examination.

It almost seems like my piston is reverse locked. I pushed down ever so gently with a small wooden kebob stick to gain a measure for depth. There is a nice little audible click that comes from inside when I nudge that piston down approximately 1/2 inch from being flush at the top. When I release it there is another tiny audible click and it returns to the state in the picture above but never fully extends? Somethings catching it...I'm about to go re-harness it and mash the piston with my finger to see if it'll fire up! Be back soon with updates and the car in the driveway hopefully.

Afterthought just before leaving-it feels spring loaded but none of those pictures indicate anything pushing upwards? Only noticeable springs are the slide bolt that seems to "lock" it into the fully extended position like in your video??

akmofo · 01-29-2013, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anifaust

So I went back and re-removed the unit for further examination.

It almost seems like my piston is reverse locked. I pushed down ever so gently with a small wooden kebob stick to gain a measure for depth. There is a nice little audible click that comes from inside when I nudge that piston down approximately 1/2 inch from being flush at the top. When I release it there is another tiny audible click and it returns to the state in the picture above but never fully extends? Somethings catching it...I'm about to go re-harness it and mash the piston with my finger to see if it'll fire up! Be back soon with updates and the car in the driveway hopefully.

Afterthought just before leaving-it feels spring loaded but none of those pictures indicate anything pushing upwards? Only noticeable springs are the slide bolt that seems to "lock" it into the fully extended position like in your video??

I don't think the force will cause the gear to rotate enough for the bottom part of the lock to hit those switches. There is a spring in the lock thing. I'm not quite sure the purpose, but it does allow it to press in and pop back out a little. I'm not sure the purpose of it. I think you can see it in this picture.

Anifaust · 01-29-2013, 06:10 PM

VRRRROOOOMMMM

Hey Nissan, nice security...I just fixed my car and bypassed your unit with my index finger. I'll be keeping my 1107.96 for myself thank you very much!

Ok, so back on track. I need to find a permanent solution for this now. I bought a little rotary tool set and a JB weld steelstick. JB takes at least an hour to cure- I don't have any sort of vice setup to clamp the bolt down either. May have to default to cutting the case open and dialing it back manually from the side. My main goal here is to keep as much outward appearance of normality though in case I want to resell it.

Suggestions at this stage? I'll see if I can upload a video from my phone of what I did tonight too.

akmofo · 01-29-2013, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anifaust

VRRRROOOOMMMM

Hey Nissan, nice security...I just fixed my car and bypassed your unit with my index finger. I'll be keeping my 1107.96 for myself thank you very much!

Ok, so back on track. I need to find a permanent solution for this now. I bought a little rotary tool set and a JB weld steelstick. JB takes at least an hour to cure- I don't have any sort of vice setup to clamp the bolt down either. May have to default to cutting the case open and dialing it back manually from the side. My main goal here is to keep as much outward appearance of normality though in case I want to resell it.

Suggestions at this stage? I'll see if I can upload a video from my phone of what I did tonight too.

Cover the hole you cut with a Nissan sticker.

01-29-2013, 04:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
Anifaust Base Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: OKC Posts: 17 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 12	So I went back and re-removed the unit for further examination. It almost seems like my piston is reverse locked. I pushed down ever so gently with a small wooden kebob stick to gain a measure for depth. There is a nice little audible click that comes from inside when I nudge that piston down approximately 1/2 inch from being flush at the top. When I release it there is another tiny audible click and it returns to the state in the picture above but never fully extends? Somethings catching it...I'm about to go re-harness it and mash the piston with my finger to see if it'll fire up! Be back soon with updates and the car in the driveway hopefully. Afterthought just before leaving-it feels spring loaded but none of those pictures indicate anything pushing upwards? Only noticeable springs are the slide bolt that seems to "lock" it into the fully extended position like in your video?? Last edited by Anifaust; 01-29-2013 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Afterthoughts...

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01-29-2013, 06:10 PM	#4 (permalink)
Anifaust Base Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: OKC Posts: 17 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 12	VRRRROOOOMMMM Hey Nissan, nice security...I just fixed my car and bypassed your unit with my index finger. I'll be keeping my 1107.96 for myself thank you very much! Ok, so back on track. I need to find a permanent solution for this now. I bought a little rotary tool set and a JB weld steelstick. JB takes at least an hour to cure- I don't have any sort of vice setup to clamp the bolt down either. May have to default to cutting the case open and dialing it back manually from the side. My main goal here is to keep as much outward appearance of normality though in case I want to resell it. Suggestions at this stage? I'll see if I can upload a video from my phone of what I did tonight too.