DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

axio

Thanks for the pics! Finally we see what the inside looks like. I have a few questions.

1) the tabs in pictures 1 and 2, you're basically just grinding the metal off? Could you use an angle grinder with a grinding wheel to get this done, or would you advise on a standard Dremel cutting wheel?

2) in the second to last pic, you have the two posts held down by the metal piece. What is the purpose of this and are there any side effects, such as no longer having the ability to lock the wheel?

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GTM Stg II SC w/ Aquamist methanol injection, GTM oil cooler, Berk HFC, Stillen CBE, BC ER coilovers, Hotchkis sways, TWM short shifter, Clutch spring mod, CarboTech XP8s

KORRUPT

1) For the tabs I simply used a dremel with a drill bit, you feel when the bit get through and then you stop. There is a bit of space behind the tabs so that you wont go into the main case.

2) When you try to start the car the motor turns the plastic gear which then moves a shaft up to connect the two tabs so that you can start the car. This metal plate bypasses that faulty mechanism.

From what I was told if you repair it this way the key light will be on and you wont have a lock on the wheel BUT you will be able to get the car started at least and that's all I was after.

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AFE / HPS / STILLEN CBE / AMS SS

AWX Z34

Beats paying 5 - 6 bills