maybe in zville everyone is sincere. miami's full of crooks and lazy people. most dealers here are huge and the service area is away from the waiting room. i dont know about there, but here most service techs are kids in high school or just graduated from making minimum wage. they're still in that high school mentality and are oblivious to how hard someone has to work to afford a $35-40k car and therefore have no respect for it.

i'll pay the ~$10 over what you pay and change it myself with the ester oil and not have to worry about someone tokyo drifting my car.

The last time a dealer touched one of my vehicles (a Toyota Tacoma) was to fix something they did after a cheap oil change and tire rotation.

They over torqued the lugs so much, they had to DRILL two of them off the next time I took it in. They damaged the wheel in the process and had to give me a new one.

No thanks...
I can change my oil in less than an hour, and I KNOW it's been done correctly.

Of course I like tinkering, so it's fun for me...

I'm about 1/2 way through my break in and decided to install a filter magnet. Like AK I had this idea when I got the car but I was having trouble finding something that looked like a good product. Thanks for pointing the way AK! I got the HP250 FilterMag:

[IMG]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Z/IMG_3580.jpg[/IMG]

I'll be installing this drain bolt by Peak Performance one the first change:

http://www.enjukuracing.com/images/p...nplug_full.jpg
Thanks for the great write up! :tiphat:

AK just curious do you plan to cut open the filter and see if any crap is stuck to it? I have an air compressor and I'm tempted to go get a cheap pneumatic cutting wheel to cut mine open and see if I got anything after break in lol.

Very nice. Congrats on your first oil change. You went with the more powerful magnet option HP model (I have SS which is one grade below).

Upon my 1st oil change, I found metal shavings on the drain bolt. I was SO TEMPTED to open up the filter but I had no tools do such thing :(. If someone can point me to the right tool and it's cheap enough, I would love to open it up.:tup:

I actually haven't changed the oil yet, waiting until 1200mi. I just added the filter magnet. What you said makes me want to see if I can swap the drain bolt really quick though too so I catch any additional shavings during the rest of the break in! I don't have any oil though to refill what will come out during a quick bolt swap so I'll have to get some on the way to work and do it tomorrow.

I've never cut a filter open either but how about something basic. You have a vice and a hack saw lol? Anyway I think ideally you would have wanted to cut it open with the magnet still attached, otherwise the particles may come loose from the can and drain with the oil. If you've already moved the magnet to a new filter they may not be there. I may get the cutting wheel. If I end up doing it I'll post pics.

I'd just wait until you actually change your oil. That, or just go ahead and change it. I put mine off until 3200 or so but many people on here get synthetic in there way early. No harm, just a little cost. I'd stay away from trying to "swap" the drain bolt. :twocents:

I haven't done my first oil change yet, I'm actually going in to the dealership to get it done tomorrow. My only concern is that the manual says to change the oil at 3,750 miles. But unfortunately with my hectic scheduling I've gone over about 1k without changing it. Should I worry, or just get it changed sooner next time like maybe on the next 2k? :(

Are you at 4750 ? if so, change your oil ASAP. Just follow the manual for the next changes. You should be okay. Though I should point out, this car takes a while to break in. Even my last oil sample showed signs of break in still.

Thanks for the advise. I went ahead and changed the oil, and the car runs very smooth. Didn't realize it takes long to break in the engine. I wonder if that goes the same for the shifter. Its a bit notchy, but either than that it runs like silk. :happydance:

Has anyone went with Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 yet? I decided to go with Amsoil myself....should be here Monday. I also ordered an Amsoil oil filter and have already got the SS250 filtermag and Titek magnetic drain bolt here, ready to go. Will be changing the oil for the first time at 3,000 miles. Ordered the Amsoil products from LiquidZ. Thanks for an easy transaction!

Any synthetic oil should be fine for the Z. Let us know how Amsoil treats you.

My cuzn is picking up Nissan Ester oil for me since he is having his car serviced at New City Nissan.

It cost $17 + or about $18/QT!!!
Damn Dealerships!!

My first oil change and shipping alone to Hawaii would be almost as much and Im doing it soon once I find a decent oil cooler...

I am about to run amsoil next change 0w 30 as well due to the crazy cold temps that kicked up here.

I would double check ur filter. Amsoil tech line specifically said they dont make a filter for the 370z. You can get a WIX filter but supposedly they are not meant to be used for extended drain intervals

I simply entered the K&N HP-1008 into Amsoil's master cross reference and it gave me the equivalent Amsoil filter #EA012. I heard the filter for the 370 was small but when I got it in, I was shocked at how small it was. So shocked I took it to the Nissan dealership to compare and the dimensions are the same. That scares me that the tech line for Amsoil couldn't do something that simple.

well that was smart on your part. i didnt think about doing that.

I checked with LiquidZ here and PM'ed him a while ago and he confirmed that they dont recommend a EAO filter. very confusing

actually just looked in the online catalog and for the G37 they have the EAO 12 listed. weird.

They don't recommend their on oil filter??? That is confusing....

Bsramzy, I apologize for the confusion. Allow me to clarify:

Amsoil requires the use of an Amsoil EAO oil filter if you are to use extended drain intervals. I strongly recommend customers to not use extended drain intervals without first having an oil analysis done to see how your engine is responding to a certain oil and how its wearing. This is where I think there was some confusion. Since I suggested not to use extended drain intervals without further testing, one might infer that I didn't recommend using an Amsoil EAO oil filter. With this in mind, I suggested using a Wix filter for the time being until you were able to conduct an oil analysis. Not to mention, at the time of your inquiry, I could not find an Amsoil EAO filter that fit the 370Z. Amsoil continuously updates their website so it is possible I could not find the filter at the time. I called Amsoil tech support to find the correct oil filter, but after about 15 minutes on the phone, the representative could not find one.

Now, after a few weeks, I was able to find a corresponding Amsoil EAO filter by cross referencing the K&N part number. This is what forum member pbpd4816 is referring to.

I hope this clarifies things. In conclusion, you can't go wrong with Amsoil's EAO filter. They make excellent oil filters.

Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any more questions and sorry for the confusion!

ok that clarifies A LOT. i will stick with the "7500 mile version" of amsoil and a wix filter until my warranty expires.

still the best DIY known to man kind lol

3rd oil change w/ a new brand filter (4th all together)
 

It was a beautiful day today. In this winter season, having a 45 degree temp is a pretty good reward for us North easterners. So, I decided to do my 3rd synthetic oil change today (4th on the car).

I used K&N (HP-1008) for the last two oil changes. This time, after looking at MODSHACK's oil cooler thread and Shrute's Journal, I have decided to give Purolator PureOne filter a try. I have heard nothing but good things about them and some of my friends approved PureOne more than the K&N. Also, as you know, the stock filter is really small. If you go to the Purolator website , they actually lists the smaller PL-14612 filter for Nissan 370Z, which is comparable to the stock size. But, many members here went with PL-14610 which is slightly bigger (Please see picture below for reference). This oil filter is a little cheaper than K&N ($6) and available at all automotive stores like Autozone/Pepboys etc.

Just like the last time, I did see some metal shavings/fragments on the magnetic drain plug. I'm sure there are metal shavings trapped by the filter magnet as well but I don't have an oil filter cutter :(. I really wish I could open up one of these filters.

Here are some pictures to share:

Here's the filter I went with. Notice, it's the PL14610 which is slightly bigger than the stock filter
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02909.jpg

Here's a comparison picture. I took this picture because, when I went to some of the other journals, this filter looked way bigger than OEM (at least twice the size) but in reality, it's not. That's why I put an iphone next to it so that you can get an actual size idea. This filter def looks like the right size for the car, not the dinky OEM filter :rolleyes:.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02920.jpg

Metal shavings on the magnetic drain bolt.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02905.jpg

Installed
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02924.jpg

I think I should seriously ask Aquafina to sponsor me! :rofl2:
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02930.jpg

Also, I picked up this oil filter wrench from Pepboys few years back for $5. Definitely something you want to keep in your garage.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02912.jpg

Crossed 14,000 miles this week! :driving:
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC02934.jpg



Thank you sir! :tiphat:

nice one AK. just did my 2nd change today at 7606 miles. the first switch to Synthetic was at about 3250. added a cooler though :tup:

unfortunately i didn't think ahead and order the Purolator "XL" filter or the Red Line oil. just went with M1 in both cases. definitely easier to drop the splash guard once you know what's going on. I've taken it off 4 times so far, and only 2 oil changes lol.

next time i'll remember to order my stuff ahead of time so i can be cool like you :tiphat:

:icon18::icon18::icon18::tup::tup:

Couldn't resist... ;)

http://www.the370z.com/members/schru...-messin-ak.jpg

:koolaidwall:

:bowrofl: :rofl2: :tup:

At first I was like Wtf?

Then saw it was a gag, :bowrofl::roflpuke2::bowrofl:
Nice Ak!

oil change
 

Thanks Ak for the thorough info on how to change the oil myself, and an indication of the products you used. I used to do the oil changes myself, but have had the dealer do them for many years. With my new 2010 370Z Roadster, things have changed. I don't want just anyone doing anything to my Z, especially driving it without my being there with them. I don't even want them to wash it. So, the oil change's will be done by myself, as well as anything else I can handle responsibly.

Hey guys, wanted to give an update on my first oil change with Amsoil SS0W-30. First off, getting the filter off was a mutha. The motor runs a bit quieter now but the main thing I wanted to let people know is to NOT order the Ea012 Amsoil oil filter. The threads are different i.e. it will not work on this motor. I cross referenced a K&N HP-1008 on Amsoils website and it gave me the Ea012 filter part number. I'm not sure if I got a defective one or what but it would not line up correctly and I wasn't about to force it on. The Ea012 is the same size as stock but a no go. I had to go up to the parts store and get a K&N HP-1008 and it went on smoothly. Just wanted to let you guys know in the case you wanted to go with an Amsoil filter. I'm not knocking them because Amsoil does not list a filter for our car. I'm the F*** up in this deal. I thought for some reason I out smarted the system by simply cross referencing the filter numbers. Anyways, sorry, I digress!!! Thanks for the diy. Very helpful. I only took the 4 10mm bolts off the tray underneath the car and pulled the flap back. Worked perfectly. AND I only jacked the drivers side of the car up and placed a small jack stand underneath for safety. Worked great and actually leaned the car correct way and I feel like most of the old oil came out.

You're welcome. It takes about 30 minutes and you feel good doing it yourself so why take it to the dealer. Good luck with the change.

Thank you for keeping us informed. If you DO find another amsoil filter that fits, please let us know. HP-1008 isn't bad. I used it for last two changes. I highlighted your post so that people can be informed.


Many members were asking me where I buy my Redline oil from. There's a guy on ebay that sells them at reasonable price. Here's the link

eBay Store ? More Than Tires: Search results for.

Also another thing, PLEASE recycle your used oil properly. You can take it to any Pepboys or auto shop and they will take your used oil without any hesitation or questions asked. Pepboys usually have me put my name and how many gallons I'm giving them on a piece of paper. It's THE LAW! They can be fined by the government if they refuse to take your oil. If you really don't want to fill out any paper, you can EVEN drop it off in front of a shop (Pepboys) when they are closed!

Please be considerate to our environment and dispose your used oil accordingly.

Thanks :tiphat:

Pardon me but:

1. Where do i buy the KN oil filter? magnetic drain bolt? and the filter magnet?

how much are they?

Ak, added links for everything you need in the first page...:tiphat:

Sorry this may look long winded, but it's the vehicle data from Amsoil's website.


You may have received a defective oil filter. (UPDATED EDIT ….. You may be onto something here…..…as I am researching Amsoil’s website, there may be differences in the oil filter recommended for the G37 and for the 370Z. The WIX filter part number is different – see below)

I have ran two sets of Amsoil EaO12 oil filters on two different 370Z’s and found no fitment issues at all, nor leaks. Amsoil’s website has this oil filter EaO12 cross referenced for the OEM Infiniti G37 which is the same engine as the 370Z. At the time (back in March 2009) they did not even list ANY oil filters for the 370Z, it was to new of a model.

I would still hold off on the Amsoil oil filter until I have tested a theory and proved if it is Amsoil’s oil filter. The theory behind the Amsoil is that the oil filter MIGHT be overloading at higher RPM's and restricting flow in longer drains (5k miles). In lay-man terms the filter might be restricting flow which is not good for metal wear and increasing fuel dilution in addition there are some traces of soot. This became apparent on my second used oil analysis (UOA) along with consultation with a triboligist. I have swapped out the Amsoil oil filter and currently running Purolator PureOne oil filters and will test with a UOA after 5k miles. There is a current Amsoil TSB out for Toyota and GM cars on the EaO filters and not sure nor have seen any issues with Nissan or Inifiniti but I am not taking any chances.

Amsoil makes great EaO filters for extended drains and my first used oil analysis (UOA) proved that my oil could handle it and the filter was doing its job. But after the second drain (same oil brand/type and oil filter brand/type) the used oil analysis indicated metal wear had spiked up 75% and the fuel dilution number increased along with soot. Hence the theory to swap out ASAP the Amsoil EaO12 oil filter to see if it is the culprit. The difference I see just in the part numbers indicate that possibly the EaO12 is not suited for the 370Z. I still need to confirm this.


There should probably be a new thread started on used oil analysis as this post is off topic from the DYI oil change.


From Amsoil website under MY AMSOIL GARAGE

Note: They recommend WIX oil filter….Interesting… there is no EaO12 listed.
I cannot find any specs on these three oil filters for comparison i.e. Threads and Relief Valve P.S.I.

SKIP TO THE SECTIONS IN RED

Some specs have been edited out to shorten the post.


2009 NISSAN/DATSUN 370Z 3.7L 6-cyl Engine Code VQ37VHR

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:

Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)
All TEMPS......5W-30

FILTERS:

Oil Filter WIX 51358 Oil Filter


CAPACITIES:

Engine, with filter..........5.2 quarts [1]





Now for Infiniti G37




2009 INFINITI G37 3.7L 6-cyl Engine Code VQ37VHR

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:

Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)

FILTERS:

Oil Filter Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter (EAO12)

Oil Filter WIX 51365 Oil Filter
Air Filter [1]
Fuel Filter

[1] Takes 2



CAPACITIES:

Engine, with filter..........5.2 quarts [1]

Thanks for the good info ZForce! One thing I noticed when I purchased the K&N HP-1008 and that it had a spring that you can see in the bottom of the filter. The Amsoil did not.... What is the spring? I'm stupid when it comes to these things.

AK
Did you ever have Ester Oil in your Z ??? If so, when you changed to Red Line did you engine noise change? My local dealer told me that the main reason to stay with Ester is engine nosie reduction.

As always, many thanks for all of your wonderful pictures, some of us learn by looking vs reading...:tup::tup::tup:

Redline is an ester based oil I believe.....

You are correct sir.

You're welcome. As you know, the nissan fills their engine with regular oil from the factory. So, going from regular to Redline, I thought car was much quieter. Who knows, it could be just my imagination. Though, few other members noticed the same thing ..

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...hange-can.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...il-change.html

Thanks for the kind words!

Reg: The spring on K&N's oil filter?

I really do not know and going off the cuff here. Looking at the diagram on K&N website: K&N Oil Filters - Oil Filters for Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, ATV's, Boats, and more! I can only imagine the spring is placing pressure on the filter which seats up against the anti drainback valve and it’s here where the spring comes into play by keeping a constant tight seal between the filter and anti drainback valve.

K&N’s definition of their anti drainback valve.
Anti-drainback valve (where applicable) eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown

Thanks For the Diy AK! I just changed over to Red Line and it indeed is more quiet at idle, I went ahead and also installed the FilterMag and the Drain Plug Mag.