There's not really any such thing as a synthetic oil filter, however you should use a quality oil filter that does not have cardboard end-caps like the stock Nissan one does - not sure about the "Nismo" filter construction. The best constructed ones that I found after looking for dissection pictures was PureOne, Mobil 1 and K&N.

Just got back from Advanced Auto where I was going to pick up a Purolator PureOne and grabbed this instead:

http://www.the370z.com/members/linpa...oil-filter.jpg

Pretty much the exact same part number except it has the S in it for Synthetic.

Odd you guys were just talking about a Synthetic Oil filter huh? Has anyone tried this thing yet?

I just did the DYI oil change with Redline, Purolator 1460, Filtermag and Magplug. I did notice a definite quieter running engine at idle.

Thanks for the DIY AK! :tiphat:

Where is the best place to get the metal oil drain plug washers?
Thanks

Most get them from their Nissan dealer, that's where I got mine, they have a pack of 10 for around 12 bucks.

:iagree:

If you don't feel like going to the dealer you can get them online here 2010 Nissan 370z ENGINE Engine parts Drain plug Any Nissan Part | Nissan Parts Catalog

but you have to pay shipping...... I just bought some here for the first time. I'll let you know how fast they get here.

Yo man you never said which size of the filtermag you used. i tried going filtermag.com and search 370z but no z was listed... ???

Please use some common sense and do some study yourself. It's pretty easy to find out what size of the filter mag to use (hint: the smallest one is fine). Also, filter mag is only a snap-on "curve" shape thing. It can fit onto different sizes of filters, and it's not car specific.

Thank for the DIY, AK :tiphat: Just got done with my first oil change on the Z (third overall) using Mobil 1 5W-30 and a Mobil 1 filter. I was going to get PureOne but Advance Auto had a deal and I got 5 qts of the oil for $25 with purchase of $8 Mobil 1 filter. Took oil sample and will be sending one to Blackstone for analysis each oil change going forward.

Biggest problem I ran into was my magnetic drain plug did not fit :mad: I think I'll get a filter mag and a different drain plug for next oil change.

:tup:

It sucks the price of the filter mag has gone up, I bought one a couple years ago for about $20 on ebay for my Z, I just recently bought one for my Honda S2000, and it was over $50 on ebay.

With respect to the picture, are all the bolts hex with a phillips slot in the head as well. I just did my first oil change and I couldn't see very well under there or move around. I ended up removing too many bolts since I thought the dimensions of the air guard was larger. Some were taken off on the underside of the front fender just ahead of the front wheel but underneath. The vast majority had the phillips slot in the head but some did not have the phillips slot. I should have kept them organized but now I can't remember where exactly each one goes. They all threaded easily in all the locations, I was careful not to cross thread. Can someone take a detailed photo of the underneath so I can see, especially the underside of the front fender. Thanks AK for the picture.

It's been a while and I don't even have my stock undertray or bolts anymore, but IIRC the 4 rear-most bolts have plain heads (no phillips slots), and the rest all have phillips heads. There could be two others on the sides too, the furthest back ones on the sides.. it's fuzzy now. They all thread equivalently, so it's not a huge deal either way, but the phillips ones go to clips, whereas the non-phillips ones thread into metal.

Hey I just bought my Z this month and noticed that the dealership had just done an oil change on it. Then I found a bunch of paperwork in the glove box from the previous owner and among it was a reciept of an oil change with synthetic oil. So my question is, does the dealership use synthetic oil and if not will that hurt my engine seals/gaskets? I was always told not to ever change types of oil once you start using them. And should I use synthetic for my next oil change or not? Thanks in advance for any answers.

I would suggest calling the dealer. I'm sure they will answer your questions.

I just purchased a used 2010 Z about a month ago, and the paperwork I found stated the dealer serviced the car, including an oil & filter change. My first thought was what kind of oil & filter they used. Rather than worrying about it, I called them to get the true answer. Without hesitation, they gave me oil type & filter type.

Good luck.....

I will be doing my first oil change this weekend and purchased a Mobil 1 jug that contains 5.28 US Qts. My question is: If I use the whole jug would I overfill my engine with oil? I know the recommended is 5.125 but I think I would have a hard time estimating that exact amount. It doesn't seem like a difference of 0.155 Qts is much but I could be wrong and don't want to damage my engine. Sorry for the newb question guys.

I have always changed the oil on my motorcycle but since its exactly 3 quarts, its a little easier (no measuring required).

Thanks,

i use the 5qt mobil1 silver cap. i just pour the whole thing in and it's perfect.

the filter sucks in a little bit of oil so should be fine.

when i drain the old oil, i let it drip a good 15-20min.

Mr. Kenchan is corrrect.

I did notice that at autozone (the one I purchased) they have the 5.28 US Qt silver cap and in walmart they have the same bottle with the same cap but is 5.1 US Qt. Where are you guys purchasing the bottle?

Sorry saw it in Kmart not walmart

walmart for me.

i recommend you buy the 5qt jug and one 1qt bottle in case you need to add later.
the engine eats oil when new. should stop eating around 10k miles.

Thanks Kenchan for your help. Just checked walmart website and the 5w-30 pic they show of the bottle says exactly 5 Qts.:eek2:

So confused. I'll just take your advice and let it drain for a good 20 min and pour the whole thing.

sounds good. that's wat ive been doing the last 3yrs. :tup:

The link for the drain plug is dead for me, is there anywhere to get that drain plug, I like the red color ;)

question about changing oil
 

Hi admin,
this is Rikki and I have a couple questions about changing oil. I have bought might nismo for about 3,000miles and i might have to change oil in another 3k or 4k miles so I m looking to learn how to change oil. These are what we need that u have posted to be able to change our oil. Do we have to buy all these stuff (except MOTOR OIL and OIL FILTER of course) everytime we change our oil? And what is the function of the FIlterMag Oil Filter Magnet? I know u must be very busy but if u have any chance to answer my questions that would be great.

Redline Synthetic Motor oil (5W 30)
K&N Oil filter
Magnetic drain plug Size:
FilterMag Oil Filter Magnet
Copper drain plug washer

Thanks

On the list you will need the oil (of course), the oil filter, and the copper drain plug washer. The magnetic plug and filter magnet should be reusable for as long as you own the car I would imagine.

I'm no expert on magnets, but they do get weaker over time, but it takes a VERY long time. So you shouldn't need to buy another set.

The curie temp for Neodymium (used in a filtermag) is around 600F (or higher, depending on the exact variant). If the magnet were regularly exposed to temps in excess of the curie temp, that would significantly and permanently remove its magnetism in a relatively short period of time. At lesser temperatures you can see *some* loss of magnetism temporarily, which is restored when it cools. I'm not sure how much Nd loses at typical oil temps, but probably not much.

Heat effects aside, if it's just sitting there stuck to some iron (or pulling light fragments of iron from oil), it would take a long time for it to significantly degrade. I'd guess the useful life of a FilterMag to be at least 10 years before you could tell the difference from a fresh one, could be much longer than that even.

Excellent post AK & thanks for going to al the trouble. It's exactly this type of thing that makes these Forums so helpful and invaluable.

Reminds me of a number of years ago now, when I used to frequently use an almost identical Forum when I owned by Evo5.

I changed my oil about 2 weeks ago and poured exactly 5.28 Quarts of Mobil 1 oil. I let it drain about 25 minutes before I poured the oil. Today after a 1 hour drive I let the car sit for about 2 hours and when I checked the dipstick, the oil level is on the H and can't tell but think its actually higher than that. Did I put too much oil? I thought this amount would be ok. Please help, I have noticed higher oil temperatures than before, I used to barely reach 220 and now I regularly reach that. Is it because of too much oil?

If anything, more oil should provide lower oil temp or I should say it should take longer for oil temp to rise if there are more oil. Basic chemistry. You shouldn't wait for 2 hours to check the dip stick because after 2 hours of waiting, it would defeat the purpose of running the engine prior to oil check. 10-15 minutes is more than enough.

If the line sits exactly at H mark, you should be fine. 220 F is still within the OK range. A prolonged highway drive can get this car up to 240, so I think you're good.

I've never seen mine at 240... hmmm. Hell, I dont drive my Z all that often..

I DD my Z and have never gotten up to 240 either, even with outside temperatures over 100 F. The next time I do my oil change I will be more careful and not pour the whole jug :tup:

I believe, according to the final drive ratios, the 7AT will rev at lower rpm than the 6MT while cruising in the highway. Hence you should have lower average oil temp with the 7AT.

Except when the car is in manual mode, I noticed when my car (7AT) is manual and Im using the shifter or paddles, the oil temps tend to be hotter, than compared to when im in regular drive. So I think that makes a difference, but auto to manual yeah oil temps should be lower. :driving:

The gear ration is set for either the 6MT or 7AT. Regardless the mode you're in, with 7AT, you're literally running through the same gearbox.

Ive seen that compared to running it in regular drive vs manual mode in my 7AT my oil temps go up significantly when it is in manual. I don't know why this is but I have seen temps the other day to almost 240 :eek: and never before did it do this in regular "D" mode.

Obviously I can't speak for you since I don't have the 7AT. Do you think it could be possible that you were cruising actually in the 6th gear in manual mode instead of the 7th? I would assume while cruising on the highway in auto mode, the gear would go into the overdrive 7th, correct?

No, I switched to manual mode right before I got on the interstate ramp, then I get went ahead and accelerated adn switched all the way up to 5th gear cruising around 65, from the time I got on the ramp to when I reached 65 my oil temps went from 215-220 to 235-240. My guess is high revs? I did do like 6 grand changes idk, I think thats the only thing that could explain it. Cuz the other day I was on the highway and was in 5th and accidently put it into 4th and it revved 7-8 and my oil temps shot up immediatelty. I think thats proabably what it was, because after a while of crusiing in 5th on the highway it cooled down again.

so idk. I think my assumption about the revs are right though. :icon17:

It is very weird I must say. A sudden rev-up should not bump up the oil temp that much. Sometimes on the highway I would downshift to 3 or 4 to pass some Prius cruising at 50 in the left lane, but I hardly see any increase in oil temp if it's just occasional high rpm. On the other hand, cruising at 80 mph for half hour will do. For 6MT, the engine rev at 3000 rpm in 6th at 80 mph.