DIY: Stillen header installation

CBRich · 05-10-2009, 04:00 PM

Just glancing through and had a thought. In the event that you change both the headers AND the cats is it possible unbolt at the block and back of the cats and pull the whole assembly out that way? Or is it just too tight?

semtex · 05-10-2009, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z

Just one question: Was your mechanic able to use a torque wrench on every header bolt to the heads during installation? Thanks.

I honestly can't remember if he even used one. I remember him using an air ratchet, and I think he may have just set the torque with the air ratchet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

Just glancing through and had a thought. In the event that you change both the headers AND the cats is it possible unbolt at the block and back of the cats and pull the whole assembly out that way? Or is it just too tight?

That shouldn't be a problem. The space isn't not too tight to do that.

wstar · 05-10-2009, 05:30 PM

I would be surprised if he used a torque wrench or an air ratchet on the header bolts. That would be a pretty magical feat. There's a few on the top that are pretty easy to reach, but the bottom rear two on both sides are a huge pita to even get a regular combination wrench onto.

The worst one on the whole thing is the center bottom bolt on the driver's side. You really want a good 14mm gearwrench sort of thing for that. You'll just barely be able to get it in there, and barely be able to reach it with your fingertips, and then you get to tighten it 1 click at a time. Oh yeah, and then you have to try to torque that bolt down hard somehow, with only a few fingers able to reach the barely-moving wrench. We (I had a couple friends helping) probably spent over an hour just on tightening that one damn bolt (we didn't have a gearwrench, so we used a plain 12-pt box-end wrench. Turn it one 'point', and then readjust again....

)

Z2nv · 12-18-2010, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

I honestly can't remember if he even used one. I remember him using an air ratchet, and I think he may have just set the torque with the air ratchet.

That shouldn't be a problem. The space isn't not too tight to do that.

u cant set torque on a air rachet, inless its an electric one from canadain tire haahha.. well atleast everyone ive owned u cant, theres settings like 1-2-3-4 but its not accurate, inless he knows what torque each setting is. but i highly doubt that.

05-10-2009, 05:30 PM	#3 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I would be surprised if he used a torque wrench or an air ratchet on the header bolts. That would be a pretty magical feat. There's a few on the top that are pretty easy to reach, but the bottom rear two on both sides are a huge pita to even get a regular combination wrench onto. The worst one on the whole thing is the center bottom bolt on the driver's side. You really want a good 14mm gearwrench sort of thing for that. You'll just barely be able to get it in there, and barely be able to reach it with your fingertips, and then you get to tighten it 1 click at a time. Oh yeah, and then you have to try to torque that bolt down hard somehow, with only a few fingers able to reach the barely-moving wrench. We (I had a couple friends helping) probably spent over an hour just on tightening that one damn bolt (we didn't have a gearwrench, so we used a plain 12-pt box-end wrench. Turn it one 'point', and then readjust again.... ) __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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05-10-2009, 04:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 544	Just glancing through and had a thought. In the event that you change both the headers AND the cats is it possible unbolt at the block and back of the cats and pull the whole assembly out that way? Or is it just too tight?