Questions Regarding Changing Front End Links

40 to 332 · 09-20-2021, 08:40 PM

About to install a set of new SPL front end links. The car is unladen and on ramps. A couple of questions:

1. When you remove the bolt on the existing end link that runs through the tranverse link and lower part of the shock absorber, do you need to support the tranverse link with a jack ... or can you just knock the bolt out without fear of anything shifting or collapsing and then simply install the new end link bolt?

2. The instructions indicate that the nut that fastens the bolt should be torqued to 50 ft/lbs (... with a warning not to over-torque). However, I recall reading some posts awhile ago in which some people were suggesting that the bolts needed to be torqued more than indicated in the instructions. I'm not sure whether this still applies since the instructions that came with the new end links are dated 2018. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Rusty · 09-20-2021, 10:05 PM

The best way to remove and install the front SPL end links. Is to remove the tires. Disconnect the links on each end of the sway bar first. Now you have to watch out when removing the bottom bolt on the coilover. The lower arm may spring on you. That bolt hold the coilover to the lower arm. So it has pressure on it. Once you get the bolt out. Install the new link in the lower arm. Don't connect the sway bar just yet. After getting both sides on and tires on. Drive the car back and forth to get the hanging camber out of it. Once that is done. Now drive the car back up on the ramps. Start on one side. Adjust the link about mid distances in it's travel. Then install that end. Now for the other end. You want to adjust it to where the bolt is easy to go into the sway bar. If you have to use force to get it in. You are putting preload into the chassis. If you know what you're doing. This is one of the ways to tune a chassis.

40 to 332 · 09-21-2021, 08:37 AM

Any advice on preventing the lower arm from springing out when removing the bolt? Should I support the arm with a jack?

Rusty · 09-21-2021, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40 to 332

Any advice on preventing the lower arm from springing out when removing the bolt? Should I support the arm with a jack?

With all the weight off the the front end. Depending on how the lower arms was installed at the factory. I had one pop down, and the other stay put. On another Z. Had one move up and had to push it down. The other side moved down.

40 to 332 · 09-21-2021, 03:24 PM

Thanks Rusty. In terms of the torque specs, the instructions that came with the endlinks indicate that the nuts should be torqued to 50 ft/lbs. The instructions on the SPL website indicate that the nuts used to fasten the bolt that extends through the control arm should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs ... and the nuts used to fasten the bolt that extends through the sway bar should be torqued to 74 ft/lbs. I guess I'll follow the instructions from the website since 50 ft/lbs seems a little light. Any thoughts?

40 to 332 · 09-21-2021, 03:29 PM

Well, I stand corrected. I contacted SPL directly and they said to torque the nuts to 50 ft/lbs.

40 to 332 · 09-23-2021, 02:55 PM

Well, I now stand corrected twice. I re-contacted SPL to confirm the torque specs. They are now saying to torque the nut that fastens to the bolt that extends through the control arm to 74 ft/lbs, and to torque the nut the fastens to the bolt that connects the endlink to the sway bar to 50 ft/lbs. Trust this helps!

09-20-2021, 08:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
40 to 332 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA Posts: 439 Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport Rep Power: 138	Questions Regarding Changing Front End Links About to install a set of new SPL front end links. The car is unladen and on ramps. A couple of questions: 1. When you remove the bolt on the existing end link that runs through the tranverse link and lower part of the shock absorber, do you need to support the tranverse link with a jack ... or can you just knock the bolt out without fear of anything shifting or collapsing and then simply install the new end link bolt? 2. The instructions indicate that the nut that fastens the bolt should be torqued to 50 ft/lbs (... with a warning not to over-torque). However, I recall reading some posts awhile ago in which some people were suggesting that the bolts needed to be torqued more than indicated in the instructions. I'm not sure whether this still applies since the instructions that came with the new end links are dated 2018. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

09-20-2021, 10:05 PM	#2 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,851 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	The best way to remove and install the front SPL end links. Is to remove the tires. Disconnect the links on each end of the sway bar first. Now you have to watch out when removing the bottom bolt on the coilover. The lower arm may spring on you. That bolt hold the coilover to the lower arm. So it has pressure on it. Once you get the bolt out. Install the new link in the lower arm. Don't connect the sway bar just yet. After getting both sides on and tires on. Drive the car back and forth to get the hanging camber out of it. Once that is done. Now drive the car back up on the ramps. Start on one side. Adjust the link about mid distances in it's travel. Then install that end. Now for the other end. You want to adjust it to where the bolt is easy to go into the sway bar. If you have to use force to get it in. You are putting preload into the chassis. If you know what you're doing. This is one of the ways to tune a chassis. Averying likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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09-21-2021, 08:37 AM	#3 (permalink)
40 to 332 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA Posts: 439 Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport Rep Power: 138	Any advice on preventing the lower arm from springing out when removing the bolt? Should I support the arm with a jack?

09-21-2021, 03:24 PM	#5 (permalink)
40 to 332 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA Posts: 439 Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport Rep Power: 138	Thanks Rusty. In terms of the torque specs, the instructions that came with the endlinks indicate that the nuts should be torqued to 50 ft/lbs. The instructions on the SPL website indicate that the nuts used to fasten the bolt that extends through the control arm should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs ... and the nuts used to fasten the bolt that extends through the sway bar should be torqued to 74 ft/lbs. I guess I'll follow the instructions from the website since 50 ft/lbs seems a little light. Any thoughts?

09-21-2021, 03:29 PM	#6 (permalink)
40 to 332 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA Posts: 439 Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport Rep Power: 138	Well, I stand corrected. I contacted SPL directly and they said to torque the nuts to 50 ft/lbs.

09-23-2021, 02:55 PM	#7 (permalink)
40 to 332 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA Posts: 439 Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport Rep Power: 138	Well, I now stand corrected twice. I re-contacted SPL to confirm the torque specs. They are now saying to torque the nut that fastens to the bolt that extends through the control arm to 74 ft/lbs, and to torque the nut the fastens to the bolt that connects the endlink to the sway bar to 50 ft/lbs. Trust this helps!