DIY: Door handles (disassemble, paint, reassemble & swap out)

falicfr · 11-06-2016, 11:05 AM

Looks really great!!! Orange peel hardly noticed.

OldGuyFla · 11-07-2016, 10:45 AM

Got them back together this morning. Not much to say about it.
I used #4-40 SS Button head screws (photo 1 )

I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning to start swapping them out.

OldGuyFla · 11-08-2016, 02:22 PM

I'm done swapping out the handles & I didn't have too many problems. (photos 13,14,15). If you have the windows in the up position there will be a little more room to work with. Small hands are a plus for this task! I started with the passenger side.

1 - Remove the black plastic plugs (photo #16).
2 - You have to remove 2 bolts, a 10mm socket, (photo #1). There have been many ideas on how to keep from dropping the bolts down in the door while removing. Well I have yet another. I cut small squares of painters tape just larger that the head of the bolt. (photo #2) I used a pair of hemostats to position the tape over the head of the bolt (photo #2) & used the eraser end of a wooden pencil to secure it to the head. Take a 10mm. deep socket & force it on to the head (photo #3). Now the bolt won't drop out of the socket when removed (photo #4). REMOVE THE 2 BOLTS
3 - The handle is resting on 2 guides (photo #10 yellow circles). The handle has to be raised up enough to clear the guides & pulled outward. After the handle is out of the door it will look like (photo #5).
4 - There are 2 cables connected to the handle. The first cable is a braided one much like the brake cable on a bike. It is connected in 2 places (photo # 10 orange circles). Remove this one first. That will give more flexibility to work . The second cable is a 2 wire cable connected to the button & a blue connector (photos #5&6) This cable is secured to the door in 2 places (photo #5) The green circles in (photos #5&6) is just an anchor position to keep the cable where Nissan wants it. I couldn't think of a good way to remove this, so I just grabbed it with a small pair of plyers & yanked. If anyone knows of a good way to remove this anchor please chime in. The blue connector is mounted to a black plastic base that is mounted to the door (photos #5&6 blue circle) To remove the connector from the base use a small screwdriver (photo #8) In (photo #7) the screwdriver must be inserted into the slot & pushed in as far as it will go. At that point raise up on the butt end of the handle & attempt to push the blue connector away from you (toward the front of the door). You might have to play with this a little to get it to release. Don't get discouraged, I had to do it a few times for it to release. JUST A NOTE HERE, I dropped the screwdriver into the door & had to remove the door panel to retrieve. Not all bad, now I know how to remove a door panel. After that I tied a string to the handle of the screwdriver & hung it over the outside of the door so I could pull it out if I dropped it again. Now that the connector is free from the base it has to be unplugged . A smaller screwdriver will be used. I used a jewelers screwdriver (photo #9). The screwdriver will be inserted into the slot & keep pushing until the connector can be pulled apart. THE DOORHANDLE IS REMOVED
5 - The only difference in the driver's side handle is the key mechanism. The lower hole in the door has 2 bolts that can be seen. The one is off center & a number of members have voiced their concerns about getting it out. The truth is it doesn't have to be removed. All that bolt does is hold the key mechanism to the handle (photo #12 green circle) Start by removing the same 2 bolts that were removed for the passenger side. Then remove the torx (t-30 bit) head bolt on the inside rear of the door (photo #11). This handle is only resting on 1 guide (photo #12) Lift up & out to remove. First disconnect the metal rod connected to the key mechanism (photo #12 yellow circle) Just let the rod fall down into the door, it doesn't go very far. Now repeat what was done for the passenger door.
6 - Reinstalling was very easy. Just do everything in reverse. ONE NOTE - As I was connecting the cables on the driver's side, the window rolled down by itself & had to reset the windows. (photo #17) is the procedure.

Well I think this thing is long enough. I hope that some part of this might be of help to someone.

Dan

EDIT - Just a quick update. Originally I didn't have a good way to remove the anchor point on the one cable (green circles on photos 5 & 6) Found that a small pair of right angle needle nose pliers will get behind it & remove it easily.

11-06-2016, 11:05 AM	#1 (permalink)
falicfr Base Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Baltimore, Maryland Posts: 183 Drives: 14 Sp/Tour/Nav/AT7 Rep Power: 34	Looks really great!!! Orange peel hardly noticed. OldGuyFla likes this.

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