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Scratch/Swirl Removal & Sealant

IMHO, there is little need to pay for high-end products here. No one is more particular or anal retentive than I; and I've achieved stellar results with nothing more exotic

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Old 06-26-2010, 05:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Scratch/Swirl Removal & Sealant

IMHO, there is little need to pay for high-end products here. No one is more particular or anal retentive than I; and I've achieved stellar results with nothing more exotic than "Kit Scratch Out." I've used it very successfully on my last four cars (SAAB 900SE, Honda Accord EXL Coupe, Acura TSX, and now my new 370Z Roadster). If I'm working only on a small area, I may apply it by hand; but I generally apply and remove/polish with an orbital buffer (again, no need to spend $130+ for a Porter-Cable IMO). I have a 9-inch Craftsman and a 6-inch MVP that have served me well. I think I paid something like $4.99 for my last 7 oz. bottle of "Kit Scratch Out," and perhaps $40 & $20 respectively for the two orbital buffers.

NOTE: For best results with an orbital buffer - apply & remove with separate, clean terry cloth bonnets, then buff to a final shine with a microfiber bonnet. The Kit Scratch Out formulation does include a modicum of silicone (some may object), but it works nicely for me to add some shine/protection to the polishing process.
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The fact that you're using terry bonnets alone tells me that my definition of "scratch/swirl free" and yours are very different.
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It all depends on your level of acceptance or experience. I've been in the detailing business for a long time and can honestly tell you there is a big difference between the products you accept as "stellar" and my level of acceptance. I have many types of polishes and compounds, and two types of polishers, for every condition of paint in need of repair. And you also need to consider the way paint reacts with the polish and or compound. Some paints you need to use diminishing abrasives while others require the use of non-diminishing abrasives to polish out to perfection. 99% of all my details are black and my customers want as close to perfection as possible, so the appropriate products and techniques are a must. If what you are using is acceptable to you then hey thats great, but there are fear better products and machines available that will yield much better results, as well as people like myself that know the difference. If you are truly that anal about your car, then my I suggest you spend some time doing some research at Autopia.org, a very good source of info.
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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And so it begins....
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Old 06-27-2010, 04:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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your kidding... right?
I am standing right beside Dylan on this one. And I have also done detailing for a long time, I must second there is a huge difference between what you are suggesting and may accept and what I would.
To each his own and good luck
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Scratch/Swirl Removal & Sealant

Granted - I may have overstated things a bit with use of the word "stellar," but my car delivered with myriad surface scratches/blemishes (not apparent on inspection at the dealership), and my well-tested process with the "Kit Scratch Out" removed them all beautifully without leaving any swirls (I'm very diligent & careful, so your results may vary). I won't argue against the higher-end products (no doubt some are superior), but my 40+ years of experience suggests that the law of diminishing returns applies here in a big way. The intended point of my original post was only to suggest that you need not spend a lot of money just to remove surface scratches et al. But, if the cost is of little concern to you; do whatever feels good. BTW - I grew up in an era of car enthusiasts that didn't have such things as polymers and microfiber bonnets/cloths. There was no shortage of highly-polished, scratch/swirl-free show cars in the late 60s/early 70s, so...
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I agree with the law of diminishing returns, but I believe it applies more to expensive waxes more than abrasives. Quality abrasives are not expensive, and when bought in bulk they can be cheaper than the previously mentioned. A quality polish is a lot easier to work with than the cheap stuff as well, flash points, work times etc. Scratch out is meant for removing light scratches by hand in small areas, not by machine for the whole car. Again if it works for you and you like it then it's all good.
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i have a lot of detailing gear but sometimes use off-the-shelf stuff like ScratchX. it's easy to use, and does the job. no need to use expensive polishes to do minor repairs.
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Old 06-29-2010, 01:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Not trying to continue the ''arguement", but I guess I never thought of Megs' M105/205 or D151 to be expensive. Use what works for you.
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthZ View Post
Not trying to continue the ''arguement", but I guess I never thought of Megs' M105/205 or D151 to be expensive. Use what works for you.
Thats what I think as well. You spend 40K + on a car and then try to buy the cheapest polish available .
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXTAZEE View Post
Thats what I think as well. You spend 40K + on a car and then try to buy the cheapest polish available .


I like to compare threads like these to guys who hook you up with a blind date. One guy's 5 star may be another guy's two-bagger. One guy's "expensive" may be pocket change to another.

If I knew nothing about paint correction, I would never believe a guys paint advice until I had an opportunity to see his paint work.
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Old 07-03-2010, 10:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post


I like to compare threads like these to guys who hook you up with a blind date. One guy's 5 star may be another guy's two-bagger. One guy's "expensive" may be pocket change to another.

If I knew nothing about paint correction, I would never believe a guys paint advice until I had an opportunity to see his paint work.
Thats pretty funny but very true. And your right on about the paint work. I would like to show a couple pics from some of my work. I hope these are not two-baggers to some .
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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My God, a El Camino with no rust on it?!

I love pictures like these. There's no hiding from the halogens. This is the type of picture I want to see when looking at a guy's paint who claims that it is flawless. Perfect example!

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Old 07-15-2010, 03:09 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That looks like great work! Unfortunately, to see some clear coat scratches you need to see the paint at different angles and have the light at different angles. This is why, I dont think pictures do black/darker color cars any justice. You have to see them in real life.

When I was doing some very fine scratch correction this past evening, some of the scratches I couldnt quite see unless the light was at a certain angle and I was looking at it from a certain angle. I thought about this as I was working and thought this is bordering on rediculous. The paint is near perfect and no one would see or notice whatever scratch i was trying to fix! This isnt normal, people! Should have gotten a white 370! lol
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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That looks like great work! Unfortunately, to see some clear coat scratches you need to see the paint at different angles and have the light at different angles. This is why, I dont think pictures do black/darker color cars any justice. You have to see them in real life.

When I was doing some very fine scratch correction this past evening, some of the scratches I couldnt quite see unless the light was at a certain angle and I was looking at it from a certain angle. I thought about this as I was working and thought this is bordering on rediculous. The paint is near perfect and no one would see or notice whatever scratch i was trying to fix! This isnt normal, people! Should have gotten a white 370! lol
Thats correct. I use three different light sources when correcting paint, as well as the sun for final inspection.
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