The Junkman Battles a Keyed Paint Job!

Junkman2008 · 04-23-2010, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullmonty

I just wana kidnapp him, so he can do my car on a weekly basis

After feeding me for a week, you'd let me go!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegitto-kun

epic buffing face

Wow, ZDay is actually close enough for me to drive to! The only problem is I'm due at the Corvette Plant in Bowling Green, Kentucky for a bunch of detailing clinics.

Meridian69 · 05-10-2010, 01:04 PM

Junkman,

I am trying to understand how this all works, so please forgive any ingnorance on my part. By wetsanding the paint, it removes the scratch, but it also removes the clear coat as well. When do you get to the point that you have removed too much clear coat and you are on the paint itself? By removing the clear coat, does it or can it leave the paint vunerable? After you removed the clear coat down to the scratch, do you need to add a layer of clear coat back?

Thanks in advance

labk888 · 05-10-2010, 01:32 PM

I just dived right in ... and jumped straight to a Flex; rather than a PC.

Junkman2008 · 05-10-2010, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by labk888

I just dived right in ... and jumped straight to a Flex; rather than a PC.

The Flex is a good unit. However, it is not something I would give a novice to learn on because of all the trouble you can get into. It is also NOT the unit that you want to be using on your paint all the time. If you hve properly corrected your paint and practice proper paint maintenance practices, the Flex is overkill when doing touch-up work. I have 4 different polishers that I can choose from when working on cars. By far, the PC gets the most work because it removes the least amout of clear coat. Guys who use rotary polishers all the time are simply in this for the money. They grind on your clear without considering how much clear you have to start with. I would never use a rotary on a factory paint job and I would not use a Flex as my main unit on a factory paint job. You are just asking for trouble by doing this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meridian69

Junkman,

I am trying to understand how this all works, so please forgive any ingnorance on my part. By wetsanding the paint, it removes the scratch, but it also removes the clear coat as well. When do you get to the point that you have removed too much clear coat and you are on the paint itself?

When you look at your paint thickness gauge and it says that you only have X amount of clear coat remaining. Sometimes I do it by feel, sometimes I make sure that I am measuring as I go. It depends on if it is a daily beater or a show car. It takes practice and feel, but the most important thing it takes is a paint thickness gauge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meridian69

By removing the clear coat, does it or can it leave the paint vunerable?

Yes, and that is why you don't remove all, or close to all of the clear coat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meridian69

After you removed the clear coat down to the scratch, do you need to add a layer of clear coat back?

Thanks in advance

If you remove too much clear, then yes. Again, that's why you don't remove it all or close to all of it. Your paint thickness gauge is what protects you from doing that.

Paint thickness gauges come in various degrees of expertise. Some will give you a overall reading, some will give you a reading of each individual layer. Guess which one is the best and cost more. The one for my car has to be able to take readings off fiberglass. That sucker was not cheap! It also will break down the layers on my car. That is a must when you have a car that cost around $6000-$8000 to paint right. However, you can find gauges that are only $200.

Just remember, you get what you pay for.

Junkman2008 · 05-10-2010, 01:44 PM

Hey, we got a detailing section now!

kannibul · 05-10-2010, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

I clayed the damage in order to remove all the dirt that was stuck in the touch-up paint, then I wet sanded the damage with 2500 and 3000 grit paper. I finished up by removing the wet sanding damage with Adam's Swirl & Haze Remover along with their Fine Machine Polish. No wax whatsoever. The shine you see is due to me finishing up with the Fine Machine Polish.

I watched a few of your video's today, and I think you mentioned that the fine machine polish has more cut than the swirl and haze remover?

Am I mistaken?

Junkman2008 · 05-10-2010, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kannibul

I watched a few of your video's today, and I think you mentioned that the fine machine polish has more cut than the swirl and haze remover?

Am I mistaken?

That's was how I felt when I made those videos. However, that's the problem when you just watch the videos, but don't read the actual thread where the videos are actually posted. Check out the thread here and read the associated text with that video. It explains everything.

labk888 · 05-10-2010, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

The Flex is a good unit. However, it is not something I would give a novice to learn on because of all the trouble you can get into. It is also NOT the unit that you want to be using on your paint all the time. If you hve properly corrected your paint and practice proper paint maintenance practices, the Flex is overkill when doing touch-up work. I have 4 different polishers that I can choose from when working on cars. By far, the PC gets the most work because it removes the least amount of clear coat. Guys who use rotary polishers all the time are simply in this for the money. They grind on your clear without considering how much clear you have to start with. I would never use a rotary on a factory paint job and I would not use a Flex as my main unit on a factory paint job. You are just asking for trouble by doing this.

I respect your opinion and I like the PC but I think the Flex is a better overall unit for me. Both units are random orbital buffers so both are fairly safe. I plan on using the Flex for other things besides just car detailing. If someone is just looking for a device to detail cars then the PC may be a more cost effective unit.

The top reasons why I chose the Flex are.

1) Powerful yet still a random orbital buffer
2) Variable speed trigger
3) Lock-on button locks the trigger
4) 40% more power than PC
5) Made in Germany.

P.S. Keep up the good work with your youtube feed. I've been watching your videos for a while now.

SoCal 370Z · 05-11-2010, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by labk888

I respect your opinion and I like the PC but I think the Flex is a better overall unit for me. Both units are random orbital buffers so both are fairly safe. I plan on using the Flex for other things besides just car detailing. If someone is just looking for a device to detail cars then the PC may be a more cost effective unit.

The top reasons why I chose the Flex are.

1) Powerful yet still a random orbital buffer
2) Variable speed trigger
3) Lock-on button locks the trigger
4) 40% more power than PC
5) Made in Germany.

My Flex is my favorite. Simply has all the finesse, and all the real power, when needed. The PC is good, but the Flex is great.

Junkman2008 · 05-11-2010, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by labk888

I respect your opinion and I like the PC but I think the Flex is a better overall unit for me. Both units are random orbital buffers so both are fairly safe. I plan on using the Flex for other things besides just car detailing. If someone is just looking for a device to detail cars then the PC may be a more cost effective unit.

The top reasons why I chose the Flex are.

1) Powerful yet still a random orbital buffer
2) Variable speed trigger
3) Lock-on button locks the trigger
4) 40% more power than PC
5) Made in Germany.

P.S. Keep up the good work with your youtube feed. I've been watching your videos for a while now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z

My Flex is my favorite. Simply has all the finesse, and all the real power, when needed. The PC is good, but the Flex is great.

I understand why you both feel that way but the forced rotation of the Flex is why I don't recommend it to a novice. Maybe after you get good with the PC, yes. As a novice, no way.

kannibul · 05-11-2010, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

That's was how I felt when I made those videos. However, that's the problem when you just watch the videos, but don't read the actual thread where the videos are actually posted. Check out the thread here and read the associated text with that video. It explains everything.

Thanks for the link.

05-10-2010, 01:32 PM	#18 (permalink)
labk888 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Big D Posts: 233 Drives: '10 370Z PW 6MT T&S Rep Power: 532	I just dived right in ... and jumped straight to a Flex; rather than a PC. __________________ LABK 10' 370Z/PW/6MT/Touring Sport/Illum. Kicks/Ventureshield Ultra/F1 Pinnacle 15% Tint/PLX KIWI

05-10-2010, 01:44 PM	#20 (permalink)
Junkman2008 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 1,048 Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Rep Power: 10259	Hey, we got a detailing section now! __________________ "Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

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05-10-2010, 01:04 PM	#17 (permalink)
Meridian69 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 31 Drives: 09 370z Plat/Per 6M Rep Power: 15	Junkman, I am trying to understand how this all works, so please forgive any ingnorance on my part. By wetsanding the paint, it removes the scratch, but it also removes the clear coat as well. When do you get to the point that you have removed too much clear coat and you are on the paint itself? By removing the clear coat, does it or can it leave the paint vunerable? After you removed the clear coat down to the scratch, do you need to add a layer of clear coat back? Thanks in advance