SPL rear titanium mid links, springs???

DEpointfive0 · 02-12-2016, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Well since I DIDNT f*^k the guy who clames I did who I sold my links to cause they were perfect on my car, maybe yours are 350z's? Even though I doubt that's an issue because I gave away my oem buckets to a 350z guy and he has no issue. So idk

Whathuh?

And SPL said they're the same and that I have the newest revision

OldFart · 02-21-2016, 03:25 PM

Really late to this one, but I called them on the same issue about the spring alignment. They said it was normal when car was jacked up, when car is down on ground it looks ok from what I can see. I'm running a 6" spring and my adjuster is in the middle, have plenty of room to go either way. Total bitch adjusting them though - the spring binds on tbe inside of the adjuster.

When the weather gets nice I have to play with my droop, any major bump I hit it sounds like I am slamming up against something with the suspension, but not seeing anything amiss.

Here is a picture of mine with the car on the ground.

2SIC4U · 04-05-2017, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldFart

Really late to this one, but I called them on the same issue about the spring alignment. They said it was normal when car was jacked up, when car is down on ground it looks ok from what I can see. I'm running a 6" spring and my adjuster is in the middle, have plenty of room to go either way. Total bitch adjusting them though - the spring binds on tbe inside of the adjuster.

When the weather gets nice I have to play with my droop, any major bump I hit it sounds like I am slamming up against something with the suspension, but not seeing anything amiss.

Here is a picture of mine with the car on the ground.

It sounds like you are slamming because your spring is moving in the midlink cup, you need to install helper springs to prevent this from happening. See my other post with what part you need or call KW directly and they will provide you with what spring you need.

Spooler · 02-21-2016, 09:22 PM

I was looking at these but man they seem to be a pain to get right.

OldFart · 02-21-2016, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

I was looking at these but man they seem to be a pain to get right.

There is some trial and error. I just backed the car up on race ramps and have enough room to make adjustments without removing anything. Take it out for a spin and measure. It is a nice setup.

Spooler · 02-21-2016, 10:04 PM

Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

OldFart · 02-21-2016, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

For a daily driver, probably not, except for the adjustibility - and the chubby ya might get when under the car. What you have listed in your post is almost my exact setup. I can never leave well enough alone, hense my reasoning for doing it.

gomer_110 · 02-21-2016, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

Addressed a couple of pages back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110

Suspension geometry doesn't change from stock. The advantages are that you can use more readily available 2.5" ID springs, adjust ride height (could help handling), and can adjust camber and toe with a more robust adjustment than just toe bolts.

OldFart · 02-21-2016, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

For a daily driver, probably not, except for the adjustibility - and the chubby ya might get when under the car. What you have listed in your post is almost my exact setup. I can never leave well enough alone, hense my reasoning for doing it.

This was prior to putting the mid links on.

clkio · 04-20-2016, 07:52 PM

Bringing this back. Anybody has more info on this? I bought the mid links and I am running coil overs but I need the 2.5 springs to get them to fit. However, I am still not too sure about height (whether to go with 6 or 7") and what spring rate? Thank you

clkio · 04-21-2016, 06:51 AM

I found tein springs at my buddy's shop that were 7" long and 2.5 in diameter. They fit perfect however I don't know what the spring rate is on them. I will contact SPL and neomotorsports (coilover manufacturer) and see what I can come up with

OptionZero · 07-27-2016, 05:11 PM

Bumping this thread. I too am experiencing the popping noise when going on ramps

Setup:
Aragosta coilovers w/ pillowball mounts
SPL arms in back: midlink, camber, traction arms
6 inch Swift spring.

Reading the responses above, it appears that adjusting the rear coilover height/length to keep pre-load on teh spring may solve the issue. The Aragosta rears are adjustable, so i'll be playing with that.

DEpointfive0 · 07-27-2016, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Bumping this thread. I too am experiencing the popping noise when going on ramps

Setup:
Aragosta coilovers w/ pillowball mounts
SPL arms in back: midlink, camber, traction arms
6 inch Swift spring.

Reading the responses above, it appears that adjusting the rear coilover height/length to keep pre-load on teh spring may solve the issue. The Aragosta rears are adjustable, so i'll be playing with that.

There is no rear preload...

You need to fix your droop most likely

2SIC4U · 03-10-2017, 11:09 AM

2010 370Z touring roadster w/sports pkg, convertible

Hotchkis 370z front sway bar
SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms
SPL PRO Front End Links Spherical
SPL Eccentric lockout kit

KW Variant 3 Coil-overs (don't have adjustable shock heights)
SPL TITANIUM Rear Mid Links (when set in middle it allows for another 3/4 inch drop)
SPL TITANIUM Rear Camber Arms

Swift Springs 65mm 7inch 9k (I need to go to a 6inch or 5 inch?)
Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008 (was told by KW this is needed to avoid the POPing issue so many appear to have with the midlinks, this is caused when the spring is not under load, the spring will shift, move, and is dangerous, the helper spring stays flat until it is needed but does add 2" of height.

I currently have the 7 inch spring, the 9k is perfect, stock is 7-8k, I have a convertible and wanted a slightly stiffer ride.

My issue is with the helper spring at 7 inch, my car is like a 4x4. With just the 7 inch spring the car is stock height with the midlink where spl states it should be. That said, do I go with a 5 inch spring to allow for the helper spring, or go with a 6 inch spring? It looks like so many have the popping noise issue and everyone is all over the place with their setups. Suggestions?

OptionZero · 03-10-2017, 01:28 PM

Actually the solution is simple, get thrust washers from Swift. Super cheap, they go between the spring and the mount and allow smooth rotation. Conpletely solved any popping

02-21-2016, 03:25 PM	#2 (permalink)
OldFart Track Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Carlisle, PA Age: 62 Posts: 682 Drives: 2011 Wannabe Nismo Rep Power: 961	Really late to this one, but I called them on the same issue about the spring alignment. They said it was normal when car was jacked up, when car is down on ground it looks ok from what I can see. I'm running a 6" spring and my adjuster is in the middle, have plenty of room to go either way. Total bitch adjusting them though - the spring binds on tbe inside of the adjuster. When the weather gets nice I have to play with my droop, any major bump I hit it sounds like I am slamming up against something with the suspension, but not seeing anything amiss. Here is a picture of mine with the car on the ground. Last edited by OldFart; 02-21-2016 at 03:40 PM.

02-21-2016, 09:22 PM	#4 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,149 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	I was looking at these but man they seem to be a pain to get right. Hotrodz likes this.

03-10-2017, 01:28 PM	#15 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,270 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214101	Actually the solution is simple, get thrust washers from Swift. Super cheap, they go between the spring and the mount and allow smooth rotation. Conpletely solved any popping __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

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02-21-2016, 10:04 PM	#6 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,149 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

04-20-2016, 07:52 PM	#10 (permalink)
clkio Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Cambridge ON Posts: 265 Drives: 09 370z M6 Rep Power: 12	Bringing this back. Anybody has more info on this? I bought the mid links and I am running coil overs but I need the 2.5 springs to get them to fit. However, I am still not too sure about height (whether to go with 6 or 7") and what spring rate? Thank you

04-21-2016, 06:51 AM	#11 (permalink)
clkio Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Cambridge ON Posts: 265 Drives: 09 370z M6 Rep Power: 12	I found tein springs at my buddy's shop that were 7" long and 2.5 in diameter. They fit perfect however I don't know what the spring rate is on them. I will contact SPL and neomotorsports (coilover manufacturer) and see what I can come up with

07-27-2016, 05:11 PM	#12 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,270 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214101	Bumping this thread. I too am experiencing the popping noise when going on ramps Setup: Aragosta coilovers w/ pillowball mounts SPL arms in back: midlink, camber, traction arms 6 inch Swift spring. Reading the responses above, it appears that adjusting the rear coilover height/length to keep pre-load on teh spring may solve the issue. The Aragosta rears are adjustable, so i'll be playing with that.

03-10-2017, 11:09 AM	#14 (permalink)
2SIC4U Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Germantown, MD Age: 46 Posts: 33 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370Z R Rep Power: 27	2010 370Z touring roadster w/sports pkg, convertible Hotchkis 370z front sway bar SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms SPL PRO Front End Links Spherical SPL Eccentric lockout kit KW Variant 3 Coil-overs (don't have adjustable shock heights) SPL TITANIUM Rear Mid Links (when set in middle it allows for another 3/4 inch drop) SPL TITANIUM Rear Camber Arms Swift Springs 65mm 7inch 9k (I need to go to a 6inch or 5 inch?) Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008 (was told by KW this is needed to avoid the POPing issue so many appear to have with the midlinks, this is caused when the spring is not under load, the spring will shift, move, and is dangerous, the helper spring stays flat until it is needed but does add 2" of height. I currently have the 7 inch spring, the 9k is perfect, stock is 7-8k, I have a convertible and wanted a slightly stiffer ride. My issue is with the helper spring at 7 inch, my car is like a 4x4. With just the 7 inch spring the car is stock height with the midlink where spl states it should be. That said, do I go with a 5 inch spring to allow for the helper spring, or go with a 6 inch spring? It looks like so many have the popping noise issue and everyone is all over the place with their setups. Suggestions?