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Quick Review: Eibach Springs and Stillen Anti-Rollbars

I was looking to change the handling characteristics of my Z. I didn't really like the understeer-biased balance of the car. I had the parts installed last Friday (6/21) and

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Old 06-23-2013, 07:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Quick Review: Eibach Springs and Stillen Anti-Rollbars

I was looking to change the handling characteristics of my Z. I didn't really like the understeer-biased balance of the car. I had the parts installed last Friday (6/21) and I am pleased with the results so far. It's an excellent upgrade for a daily driver.
  • The car turns in corners much better; the steering feeling is direct and predictable.
  • The rear is incredibly stable on uneven surfaces and quick direction changes
  • Many members on the forum mentioned the Eibach kit has improved ride quality. This is true.
  • The drop is a bit more than an inch, however, it is not excessive in my opinion. I am able to get over sleeping-policemen with no issue.

I will continue to test the kit more extensively in the future. Please let me know if you have any questions regarding the driving dynamics!

Warning: Large Photos!

After:








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Old 06-23-2013, 08:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hmmm I've been debating springs. Stock is said to be 7.5kg and 8.1kg (stock height). Nismo's are 8.6kg and 9.3kg (raise non nismo's 1/4"). These are 8.6kg and 9.5kg (lower 0.9" and 0.8") which make them just like the nismo's but not as hard or as low as the swifts. Keep us updated. Wish I could feel the ride!

What alignment specs did you go with?
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Hmmm I've been debating springs. Stock is said to be 7.5kg and 8.1kg (stock height). Nismo's are 8.6kg and 9.3kg (raise non nismo's 1/4"). These are 8.6kg and 9.5kg (lower 0.9" and 0.8") which make them just like the nismo's but not as hard or as low as the swifts. Keep us updated. Wish I could feel the ride!

What alignment specs did you go with?
I did extensive research myself on this forum, and I think these are best fit for road use (even with poorly maintenaced streets). However, if I were going to use this at the track somewhat regularly, I would have definitely gone with a fully adjustable coil-over set.

Keep in mind that my handling descriptions are with the Stillen bars. I forgot to mention I had them set at position 4 and 2 (more of an oversteer bias. There's a great post here about the bar settings).

Also, it's funny you mention alignment settings. Here you go:

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Old 06-23-2013, 10:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by abm89 View Post
I did extensive research myself on this forum, and I think these are best fit for road use (even with poorly maintenaced streets). However, if I were going to use this at the track somewhat regularly, I would have definitely gone with a fully adjustable coil-over set.

Keep in mind that my handling descriptions are with the Stillen bars. I forgot to mention I had them set at position 4 and 2 (more of an oversteer bias. There's a great post here about the bar settings).

Also, it's funny you mention alignment settings. Here you go:
Why are the fronts camber off? Is there not a lot of adjustment with the stock suspension?
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Why are the fronts camber off? Is there not a lot of adjustment with the stock suspension?
Based off of what I researched, the fronts should have moderate adjustment capabilities. I was okay with .2 of a degree off of the target level because the suspension has not settled yet. I will probably do another alignment after a few weeks.

The rear was what I was worried about. I decided to not get camber adjustment arms for now, even though several people recommended it. Honestly, I prefer to have a little more negative camber dialed in based on my driving style, but I'll monitor tyre wear issues to see if this is a problem.

I have around 14K miles on my car and I picked it up with 8200 miles. I felt it was reasonable to assume that the original tyres were on the car, however I cannot confirm that. My last service at Nissan was a couple of weeks ago and they said all four of my tyres were in excellent health at around 13K miles.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Based off of what I researched, the fronts should have moderate adjustment capabilities. I was okay with .2 of a degree off of the target level because the suspension has not settled yet. I will probably do another alignment after a few weeks.

The front has zero (0) adjustment for camber from the factory.

Without adjustable aftermarket arms, you get what you get.

And generally, having more camber on one side usually means that side sits lower on the suspension for one reason or another (weight imbalance, spring inconsistency, etc).

Did they put ballast weight in the car during the alignment? Was there a human sitting in the driver's seat during it? If not, that may explain why you have a little less on the driver's side without any weight in the car. Maybe Nissan engineered it to level out with a driver in the car. (dunno, just a guess)
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Did they put ballast weight in the car during the alignment? Was there a human sitting in the driver's seat during it? If not, that may explain why you have a little less on the driver's side without any weight in the car. Maybe Nissan engineered it to level out with a driver in the car. (dunno, just a guess)
There was no driver in the car and no ballast attached from what I could see.

However, your point about Nissan intentionally using those settings could be valid. They intentionally don't use a 50/50 static weight balance in this car and the GTR because it will shift towards the rear when the car is in motion.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sh0velMan View Post
The front has zero (0) adjustment for camber from the factory.

Without adjustable aftermarket arms, you get what you get.

And generally, having more camber on one side usually means that side sits lower on the suspension for one reason or another (weight imbalance, spring inconsistency, etc).

Did they put ballast weight in the car during the alignment? Was there a human sitting in the driver's seat during it? If not, that may explain why you have a little less on the driver's side without any weight in the car. Maybe Nissan engineered it to level out with a driver in the car. (dunno, just a guess)
If one has fun on the street with maybe a track day or autox sometime, what numbers are good? I can't remember if the front or rear should be double one another. Like -2F, -1R or the opposite of that?

What are the minimum parts you need to buy for a proper alignment?



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There was no driver in the car and no ballast attached from what I could see.

However, your point about Nissan intentionally using those settings could be valid. They intentionally don't use a 50/50 static weight balance in this car and the GTR because it will shift towards the rear when the car is in motion.
With no driver your battery and windshield washer bottle I believe make the passenger side heavier. Probably why they are both on that side when a driver is in the car.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What are the minimum parts you need to buy for a proper alignment?
I was just a little out of spec F & R with my Eibachs. I ended up with SPC front and rear camber arms and toe bolts. Z1 has a pretty good package deal on them.
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