Ok, I'm done. If the only action you're going to take is to continue taking it to the same dealer who has been completely unable to solve the issue there's nothing I can do to help. Good luck with your future vehicles, and may they bring you more joy than this one.

Thanks. You talk about the dealer like they are one person, though. Lots of different techs have worked on the car over the past 6 months trying to solve this, not just 1 guy. I prefer to stick with 1 dealer because rapport is oh, so important when you have issues like this so you don't get told "Go pound sand, it's a wear item".

If you were local I'd have crawled up under the damn thing for you and checked it out already. What harm would verifying the work youself, or taking it somewhere else for a second opinion cause?

What, exactly, should I look for? Everything has already been looked at by people who do this for a living. Tell me what to look at and I will.

If it were my car, I'd double check every single torque value on the braking system and front suspension against the service manual. Tap on things with a rubber mallet and see if they move. Pull out the pads and see if the pistons move freely and completely retract into the calipers. You may find nothing is out of whack. You might find something the dealer missed. If everything checks out, scuff up the rotors and pads slightly, go get the directions for bedding pads off Stoptech's website and go do it again yourself. If all of that solves your problem, fantastic. If not, you've just eliminated another variable.

Something is wrong with your specific car. Few people have had rotor issues, and those that had them solved it when they went to aftermarket pads and rotors. You've changed out pretty much everything but the calipers, master cylinder and ABS unit, and the problem still occurs. This suggests to me that the root cause is not a braking issue, and the warping of the rotors are a symptom of something else being wrong. That makes me think something gets out of line when the nose dives under braking. You've claimed that the rotors were previously toasted in a single stop. That's not normal at all.

**** car. Done with it. I'm not going to go and bother blowing a whole day to do what Nissan should have done, unless Nissan is going to pay me my standard working hourly rate to do it for them. I work to pay for my toys, and while installing mods is fun and I like it, fixing things that shouldn't need fixing that shouldn't be wrong is just drudgery to me.

The nose doesn't have to dip. If the pads touch rotor, the car starts shaking, now. Previously it was just the wheel, but we are now to the point that I get a bit of that blurry vision when my head touches the headrest and I brake, sometimes. Maybe that sounds worse than it is, but the whole car is shaking and my Dad in the passenger seat who can tool around in a busted down ex police car with no AC and a floor-pan that you can see pavement through, immediately proclaimed "something isn't right".

Everything that you have listed was done by the dealership. They checked the calipers and everything. The service manager suspected some form of hardware issue and made sure it was all inspected. I KNOW they are going to get tired of seeing my car, so I don't think they limp-dicked it, I really don't.

Now you're right, I might come in and find something wrong behind them, but I'm not going to hunt around my Dad's warehouse to find all the tools I would need, and kill an afternoon doing it, when I am pretty sure it's nothing I'm going to detect without specialized items (tq wrench, maybe Nissan specific measuring devices?). I'm really just not keen on spending the money to buy a good tq wrench and burning an afternoon. Further, I sleep during the day, typically, and this isn't something you do at night.

I never loved this car, and I'm not going to go out of my way for it now of all times. I spent my time wrenching under it when the Berk CBE I bought wouldn't fit for **** and I had to off-set it enough that when it sags down and the hanger on the left side slips off the grommet, it's sitting level. That was enough fun for me. Oh, I also installed Z1 smooth intake tubing...without removing the strut brace. At night. With a flashlight. Without breaking anything. It became a struggle of ego.

If you're not going to start troubleshooting the issue yourself, and you're unwilling to let another dealer take a crack at solving the issue then there's nothing that can be done. What's keeping you from cutting your losses and selling the car?

I'd also like to point out that a good torque wrench isn't a specialty item. It's a tool any man should own. ;)

I once took a car to a dealership 3 times and they couldn't find an issue under warranty. At the time I worked for the company at a different location and got in some regional people involved with a plan. I found the problem and then marked the problem at my shop with a giant yellow paint marker arrow. Then I wrote a message "bad ball joint". Then I took it to the service area for the 4th time for the same problem and again they couldn't find the problem. However, I had the contacts and resources to get corporate involved and the service writer and 2 techs were basically told they could no longer service their brand. So the dealership ended up firing them as a result.

Needless to say I would take it to a reputable independent at the very least.

I've suggested another place of service several times. That's a non-starter.

im having the problem right now when i bought the car (i bought it as an off lease) it had the problem they cut the rotors and it fixed the problem five months later i had the problem again so thats where im at now ive been dealing with it for a while and finally broke down and ordered the Z1 motorsports brake upgrade kit which comes with drilled and slotted rotors or slotted (your choice), braided steal brake lines, brake fluid (super blue or motul rbf600 +19$), and you get a choice of brake pads i got the hawks which was an extra 20$ i think? definitely something to look into if you would like to do brakes all around it costs about the same as the OEM parts if not a little cheaper im going to install mine tomorrow since it all just came in today ill let you guys know how they feel

Thanks for the input, but he's already replaced all of that with aftermarket parts. The issue persists, so we're trying to figure out what's really going on.


You forgot these, so I brought extra ................................................ :p

I'm waiting for the BRZ STI and '15 GT.
This whole car just feels fragile to me, and the 'vette guys tried to tell me it was a prettyboy ride. It is what it is. I ignored these facts, believed that magazine paper numbers told the whole story, and now Nissan and their faggy philosophy of compromising performance for looks and paper numbers is biting me in the arse. The Nismo eating the wall due to lack of airflow in the wheel wells during the Lightning Lap was my clue, aside from experienced guys telling me the same thing. When I had my vette. Well, its what I get, I guess. Hey, at least girls like the curves, lol!

Done with this car, and not looking for **** a body shop couldn't find tearing the front end apart, or the gtr service techs prying into the matter. Hate it, but it still gets from a to b, wo ill deal, but **** Nissan.

Just sell the pos. These cars are made for seriously heavy modders (think brake ducting) and pretty boy posers. If you drive it, it won't work out. Airflow is the issue. It just bakes things in the wheel well.

Well, good luck with that. Hopefully the next one works better for you.

Every vette owner I know has put brake ducts on their car and still crack one or two rotors a weekend.