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I was thinking of changing the brake fluid but I'm not sure how many quarts I'll need. Anyone? What should I get? I don't track the car and hardly brake
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#1 (permalink) |
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I was thinking of changing the brake fluid but I'm not sure how many quarts I'll need. Anyone?
What should I get? I don't track the car and hardly brake SUPER hard. Motul RBF (?) 600 is what most recommend right? thanks |
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If you're not tracking the car then there is no need for Motul, the standard off the shelf stuff will do. Not sure on the quantity, the owner's manual may have something.
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I had to use just over a quart of AFT Blue BUT I screwed up by not bleeding the inner nipple of the caliper at first. This caused me to overbleed the outer ones since I couldn't get the correct pedal feel. If your careful, one should do. |
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![]() You only need 1 quart(see post 2)
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Wish there was a DIY on this. Anyone have a link for a.brake flush on similar brake system? I got consort brakes.
Last edited by harman.khinda; 05-27-2012 at 12:37 AM. |
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#1 Get a Motive Bleeder and fill master cyl with your favorite brake fluid
#2 Remove master cyl cap and install motive bleeder cap #3 Pump Motive Bleeder to 13psi #4 Get a 10mm wrench and loosen the inner and outer nipple from each wheel, close it up once clear fluid comes out #5 Do two wheels and remove the motive cap and fill the fluids back to the top again. #6 Repeat step #3 and do #4 and #5 on the last two wheel #7 Perform final check on brake fluid and you are done. It's expensive @ $60, but well worth it in my opinion. I used to be able to do it without taking the wheels off before I realized there was a nipple on the back side of the caliper. I can do it in about 45 min taking my time from start to finish. Any DOT4 fluid is fine, no need for the crazy $20 bottle on a street car. I am using $11/bottle brake fluid at the track and I haven't died yet |
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This is unnecessary and a waste off money all you need to do is jack the up take all four wheels off place a catch pan under each wheel fill the M/C to the top and open all 8 bleeders check the M/C to make sure it doesn't run dry ,start with a Quart of new fluid about 10-15 minutes later(after keeping the M/C full) by this time you should have used most of the Quart close all 8 bleeders rinse off the calipers with water to dilute the brake fluid that spilled over top of M/C and your done that's it no one is needed to help bleed the brakes the brake pedal is very firm and at the top.
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You said it yourself ![]()
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let me know how much they charge to do that. ![]()
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^hmmm.. so I don't need a Motive Bleeder? I just had my brakes flushed at the dealer last month - IIRC >$100; well at least they did something I couldn't do at home (flush the abs).
Do the non-sport brakes have both an inner + outer nipple to bleed? or is it just one? Just let the brake fluid drip on its own - no need to attach a tube to direct the flow to keep it off the brake parts? My first time! Last edited by harman.khinda; 05-27-2012 at 11:24 AM. |
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When gravity bleeding just "don't let the m/c run dry" just open all bleeders let them drain into a pan or bucket then keep a eye on the m/c top it off often during the bleed when you have gone thru most of the quart tighten all bleeders top off m/c and I hose off the brake fluid off the calipers just to clean them off.
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I personally have never heard of anyone just opening bleeders and wouldn't really trust this system especially since each caliper has two sets of lines going to it (you'll never get all the old fluid out as it would gravitate to one side of the caliper). Also think of it like a water cooler... when you let water out of the bottom of the tank, air replaces it through the drain spout. I guarantee you are letting air in through the bleeders as the fluid drains. Why shortcut something as important as your brakes when you can bleed them as directed? I have a vaccuum pump from harbor freight that connects to my air compressor. Cost $20-25 and swaps all my fluid in minutes. Just my 2 cents. |
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