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Steering Wheel Vibration while braking

Told you I knew what I was talking about, Nissan rotors suck.

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Old 09-26-2011, 01:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Told you I knew what I was talking about, Nissan rotors suck.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I wouldn't go as far as saying the totally suck. Again, the damage was premature and likely caused during the PDI process at the dealership. However, I do think that rotors could be a bit more robust. What would happen if your rotors heat up and you end up going through water? What about all of the cars that go through the local car wash. Wouldn't those rotors warp also?
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well it could happen to any rotor that's being used then rapidly gets cooled down, simple science really. Another factor being if it's a high quality material (or not) being used when making them.
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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used that on #34
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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sry, back on topic.... at 1500 miles he has warped rotors. is this not the fact? sounds crazy it happened, since i agree the factory rotors are so damn beefy it would take some very aggressive driving to get them hot enough in the first 1500 miles to bend the metal. (im not saying its impossible)
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i agree it is possible, but it is extremely unlikely at that mileage, with no track days. pad deposits get diagnosed as rotor warpage all the time. its no different than people claiming high oil temp robs power when the shop manual shows it doesnt do it directly (unless it messes with the vtc?). he got it replaced, thats all that matters.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I appreciate all the dialogue guys. Again, I want to reiterate that the car has not been tracked or even driven in the canyons. This is basically my drive to work on Fridays and the golf course on the weekends.

The only thing that I can only think of is when I wash the car I use Sonax full effect wheel cleaner. Sometimes the over spray of the cleaner lands on the rotors. Do wheel cleaners damage brake rotors? I know that's a far fetched hypothesis, but that's the only other thing I can come with.

BTW, when they change my rotors, should I push for new pads also?
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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it could, but extremely unlikely. many people have tracked their cars in pouring rain and they dont get warped discs from it. chalk it up as bad luck, nothing you can do now and be glad they fixed it for free!

doubt you will get new pads, but you can ask.....
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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yea, glad your back on the road. and for free!
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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This happened to my2011sportZ also. it had 300~ miles on it.Nissan cut them and it was all gone. I am gonna replace rotors, these should have been Cross drilled/ slotted stock ><
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ages View Post
This happened to my2011sportZ also. it had 300~ miles on it.Nissan cut them and it was all gone. I am gonna replace rotors, these should have been Cross drilled/ slotted stock ><
If you want to have your rotor crack, and one of your wheels completely stop spinning when you're at highway speed, which makes the steering wheel jump out of your hand and possibly break your thumb. Then yes, cross drilled rotors are what you need stock.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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reading all the members comment, most of them prefer resurfacing the rotors for the wrap problem.

are they any other solution in solving the wrap issue, other than resurfacing?

please comment on this.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Resurfacing will solve the problem 99% of the time. The vibration is typically caused by pads leaving deposits on the rotors making them uneven. The only real way to warp these rotors besides them being defective from the start is to hose them down immediately after some spirited driving.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 View Post
Resurfacing will solve the problem 99% of the time. The vibration is typically caused by pads leaving deposits on the rotors making them uneven. The only real way to warp these rotors besides them being defective from the start is to hose them down immediately after some spirited driving.
This is correct. It seems everyone here is arguing over warped v pad deposits. I have never seen a warped rotor. Does it matter? Not really, you treat them both the same way by having them turned or resurfaced or buying new ones.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I am not an engineer, but have 2 friends who are brake engineers and I understand some things. This is a quote taken from me from another thread that no one has read haha.

Quote:
Short rant about brake discs:
1) Heat is the killer of brake systems, especially brake pads. The rotor is the main heat sink of the brake system. The heavier the rotor in general, the more heat it can soak up and keep the total system cooler. This makes brake pads last much longer since heat is what eats up pads. So heavier = better. Lightening rotational mass is nice and all, but being able to use your brake pads because they aren't burned down to the backing plate is better.
2) Slotted rotors are designed to help limit buildup on the rotor. Buildup on the rotor is what causes the steering wheel to shake when you hit the brake, I think it's kind of hard to actually warp a huge hunk of steel (I'm sure at temps as high as brakes get you can though. The vanes in rotors help cool them. Slots do not.
3) Cross drilled rotors make no sense to me. I already said rotors are a heat sink, and the more mass the more heat a rotor can soak up. Why would you drill holes in a rotor to lighten it then? Worse though is that cross drilled rotors crack.
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