![]() |
Originally Posted by kenchan cossie- im impressed with your explanation. most people run 20-25mm spacers so that will reduce wheel rate considerably and lower the extra work load to maybe
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
|
#1 (permalink) | |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: window seat
Posts: 28,940
Drives: Mostly on two wheels
Rep Power: 121 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: N/A
Posts: 76,801
Drives: N/A
Rep Power: 141522 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
basically like attaching a pipe over your breaker bar to get more leverage.
your wheel rate is the spring rate at the wheel instead of at the shell of the strut assembly or spring carrier in the back. the more you push out the wheel, the more leverage you get...easier to compress the springs so softens the ride. for bound it makes it worse for the strut, rebound, makes it easier. there's give and take. usually people notice rebound undulations more, thus a lot of european dampers are only rebound adjustable vs simulateous. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: californee way
Posts: 5,380
Drives: 370, Leaf
Rep Power: 31 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
slow work day for us both....
i am just cheap. even though i have never kept a car more than 3 years, but i really dont want to prematurely kill my struts/shocks unless i am doing other dumb things (like ice racing a prius) |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: californee way
Posts: 5,380
Drives: 370, Leaf
Rep Power: 31 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Technically yes as most hub cracking are caused by wheel bearing failures. I don't think you can change the hub without the bearing on the Z (I just saw a guy changing it on a 350 at the track Sunday).
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: californee way
Posts: 5,380
Drives: 370, Leaf
Rep Power: 31 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It depends on the local club. Our club doesn't allow R comps in stock class, but SCCA and most others will. The street/race tires from Bridgestone/Kumho/Nitto/Hankook/Yokomama are about 1.5-3 sec slower than A6s, but it will be way better than your stock or the stupid V12s or whatever. It's an expensive way to go, but the better tires are better than any stupid spring setup you are going to put in your car. I believe Tirerack tested a full spring kit, the car gained .4 sec on their 30 sec course or something, which is nothing compared to a set of decent tires.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Newport Beach
Posts: 3,900
Drives: 2010 370Z/Saab 900se
Rep Power: 433 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Kenchan, how is the sidewall stiffness on the Polepositions? Same as the RE050s?
__________________
-320whp / 259wftlbs- SP Rays -- RE-11s -- SpecialtyZ Tune -- Swift Springs -- Stillen 25R Oil Cooler -- Stillen G3 Intakes -- Berk HFCs -- F.I. 12" CBE -- Stillen Sway Bars -- Es14 Spring -- INGS+1 lip -- CF Spoiler -- GTR Start Button -- VLED Parking Lights -- PWJDM V2 shift knob |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| ^^^^ swift springs through ark performance inc : Pm for best pricing! | TeamARK | Suspension/Brakes | 39 | 07-25-2011 06:55 PM |
| [WTB] Swift Springs! | 370z owner | Parts for sale (Private Classifieds) | 3 | 06-02-2011 08:16 AM |
| WTB: Swift or H&R Springs | Mr&Mrs | Wanted | 5 | 04-26-2011 10:51 PM |
| Swift Springs | Justin1686 | North East Region | 10 | 02-24-2011 06:58 PM |
| Performance benefits from front dampener? | Cell | Nismo 370Z | 3 | 09-12-2010 12:36 AM |