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AP RACING BBK Review!

Originally Posted by djpathfinder Josh or AP-Chris, what's the difference between the AP5700 R /AP3750 R and the AP5700 RS /AP3750 RS parts numbers? The application notes don't specify a

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Old 01-16-2011, 08:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by djpathfinder View Post
Josh or AP-Chris, what's the difference between the AP5700R/AP3750R and the AP5700RS/AP3750RS parts numbers? The application notes don't specify a difference.
:
The R is for Red and the S is for slotted rotors. With just the R the rotors will be cross-drilled where as SR will be slotted.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by djpathfinder View Post
Josh or AP-Chris, what's the difference between the AP5700R/AP3750R and the AP5700RS/AP3750RS parts numbers? The application notes don't specify a difference.

...and what's this you mentioned about a group buy?
I will bug josh tomorrow and get more details out of him for the group buy. Like how many we need to get a nice price. I would imagine maybe around 5 people and if we gt 10 then super savings lol.

I want these brakes so damn bad but I have to wait till the first of the month before i could think about doing it. Spent alot this month already.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:28 AM   #18 (permalink)
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man, if Stillen is really doing a group buy on this set you guys should jump on them immediately.
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:14 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The R is for Red and the S is for slotted rotors. With just the R the rotors will be cross-drilled where as SR will be slotted.
Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2011, 01:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Nice write up. I am glad you like them. The kit looks quite impressive.

Were the piston sizes matched for the master cylinders? What are the piston diameters? What is the calculated impact on f/r brake bias? Assuming same pads f/r. Is there any shift to the bias? Is the pedal travel any deeper (or shallower) to account for more (or less) fluid needed to clamp the pads?

Anti-rattle clips have no impact on pad knock. To fix pad knock, you need springs behind the pistons (track only feature). Or you can prevent hub flex, but that is not a bbk feature.

There are some arguments that monoblocks are just as rigid as 2 piece calipers.

Drilled rotors are not good for track use. Were these drilled? or were they cast with the holes?

Or did you just buy them for bling? I which case they do look really good.
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Old 01-16-2011, 03:04 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Josh@STILLEN View Post
(and if there is interest on a group buy, I'm sure we can accommodate.. )
Hmm, can we get better pricing than what we talked about Josh?
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:39 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Island_370 View Post
Were the piston sizes matched for the master cylinders? What are the piston diameters? What is the calculated impact on f/r brake bias? Assuming same pads f/r. Is there any shift to the bias? Is the pedal travel any deeper (or shallower) to account for more (or less) fluid needed to clamp the pads?
The caliper/rotor combinations chosen work very well with the OE master cylinder. Bias is shifted slightly rearward as OE is too biased too heavily on the front. Most owners lower their cars, often using stiffer springs and better dampers. This decreases weight transfer to the front under braking, allowing the rear brakes to contribute more. Pedal travel is reduced as compared to stock, mostly due to stiffer components and stainless steel brake lines.

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Anti-rattle clips have no impact on pad knock. To fix pad knock, you need springs behind the pistons (track only feature).
True, but there are also other caliper features that can decrease pad knockback than just springs. Knockback is not an issue at all with AP Racing brake kits on the 370Z. Also, there are several AP Racing street calipers that use anti-knockback springs as needed. The setup in question here is not one of them.

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Originally Posted by Island_370 View Post
There are some arguments that monoblocks are just as rigid as 2 piece calipers.
Possibly, in certain cases. There is no blanket answer. The stiffest monoblocks ever made used very expensive and very eco-unfriendly materials that have been banned in most racing series. Kits which cost less than $12k per axle would not have those type of monoblocks. At "normal" BBK prices, many monoblock caliper designs have a very difficult time competing against the better designed and manufactured 2-piece calipers.

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Drilled rotors are not good for track use. Were these drilled? or were they cast with the holes?
The kits are available with slotted-only or cross-drilled AND slotted discs. For heavy track use, slotted-only is recommended. Cast-in holes are a Internet myth.

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Or did you just buy them for bling? I which case they do look really good.
I think weiboi718 should answer that one! But his review highlights some of the benefits he has already enjoyed.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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i chose AP Racing definately not for the looks. they have a history of racing heritage. if i wanted BLING i could've gotten Alliance or Phatboi Brakes.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:56 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The caliper/rotor combinations chosen work very well with the OE master cylinder. Bias is shifted slightly rearward as OE is too biased too heavily on the front. Most owners lower their cars, often using stiffer springs and better dampers. This decreases weight transfer to the front under braking, allowing the rear brakes to contribute more.
How much rearward, would this be a problem with stock suspension/ if someone wasn't planning on lowering the car or changing the springs?
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Chris, regarding the addition of more relative clamping force in the rear - makes a lot of sense with ABS off, but given this car's tendency to go into ABS "ice mode" (IMO typically set off by rear wheels) I wonder if the factory has the right idea? That's why I ended up switching to a more conservative compound on rears... My preference would be to go back to a stronger rear compound so I could use brakes to induce a little rotation, but it's just not worth the hazard of 'ice mode'... another approach that I am considering is to just leave the damned ABS off for good... thoughts?
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:50 AM   #26 (permalink)
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How much rearward, would this be a problem with stock suspension/ if someone wasn't planning on lowering the car or changing the springs?
It's not a huge shift. Again, the OE brakes are slightly bias too much to the front (like all cars are from the factory). It works fine with the OE suspension setup. However, lowering the car helps them work even better.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:55 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Chris, regarding the addition of more relative clamping force in the rear - makes a lot of sense with ABS off, but given this car's tendency to go into ABS "ice mode" (IMO typically set off by rear wheels) I wonder if the factory has the right idea? That's why I ended up switching to a more conservative compound on rears... My preference would be to go back to a stronger rear compound so I could use brakes to induce a little rotation, but it's just not worth the hazard of 'ice mode'... another approach that I am considering is to just leave the damned ABS off for good... thoughts?
I understand your concern. We are attempting to work with Nissan to help understand what is going on with the ABS. We've recorded some interesting data that shows some things they may or may not be aware of. It's not earth-shattering, but there is a little room for improvement. Hopefully, progress can be made, although I have no idea if they will adjust anything or whether they will change vehicles already in the field. That costs money!

If it were my car, I would not track with the ABS on. But you do what is right for you. As I'm sure you know, initial turn-in can be tuned by means other than brakes, such as tire pressures, damper settings, Ackerman, etc.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:19 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by weiboy718 View Post
i chose AP Racing definately not for the looks. they have a history of racing heritage. if i wanted BLING i could've gotten Alliance or Phatboi Brakes.
I agree, every AP kit I have seen is hard core. But I have also seen Alcon B type calipers on a car with spinners. They look sooooo good and the they function well.

No dis-respect intended.

You can do whatever you want with your money and your car. I just get wary of some kits. Stoptech sold a kit for last car I owned that increased braking distance since the piston were mis-matched and moved the bias WAY back. I had an Alcon set.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Island_370 View Post
I agree, every AP kit I have seen is hard core. But I have also seen Alcon B type calipers on a car with spinners. They look sooooo good and the they function well.

No dis-respect intended.

You can do whatever you want with your money and your car. I just get wary of some kits. Stoptech sold a kit for last car I owned that increased braking distance since the piston were mis-matched and moved the bias WAY back. I had an Alcon set.
none taken lol!
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:40 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I want them for the Bling i will never use these to there full capabilities lol
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