Swift springs review!!!!!

ZForce · 05-20-2011, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

I just want more camber up front to match the rear. Couldn't grip enough up front.

That means installing an Upper Control Arm. I also wonder if the 18's contribute to the non grip?

CFZ · 05-20-2011, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

Jon and I just ran the dragon with the swifts. Have to say that I was very pleased with how planted the Z felt, and how well they held up.

I ran into some alignment issues, as well as issues with the base front tires, but the springs were flawless as far as I could tell. Jon might be able to chime in more since his setup seemed to be working well.

Whenever I get home, I have video of his car on the dragon, so you can see how planted it stays.

POST VIDS!!!

I will post up a few actions shots I have at the track and autocross events as well.

ZForce · 05-20-2011, 08:46 PM

I know you have already gone for 2 alignments...but you may want to try my set up to give you more front tire grip. That is to back off the rear camber to a difference of 0.3 more postive from what you are running up front.

If I recall you are runnming:

Driver Front:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.4*

Pass Front:
Camber:-1.5
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.7*

I would suggest running the Rear camber at -1.1 drivers side and -1.2 passenger side.

Red__Zed · 05-20-2011, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce

I know you have already gone for 2 alignments...but you may want to try my set up to give you more front tire grip. That is to back off the rear camber to a difference of 0.3 more postive from what you are running up front.

If I recall you are runnming:

Driver Front:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.4*

Pass Front:
Camber:-1.5
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.7*

I would suggest running the Rear camber at -1.1 drivers side and -1.2 passenger side.

I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber?

My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and I think I'm going to try to run around 2.5* of camber up front. I'm also looking to go with a square setup, which should help dial out understeer as well.

Why do you suggest different camber on each side?

Volcom370Z · 05-20-2011, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber?

My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and I think I'm going to try to run around 2.5* of camber up front. I'm also looking to go with a square setup, which should help dial out understeer as well.

Why do you suggest different camber on each side?

Less on the drivers side because with you in the car, it evens out

Red__Zed · 05-20-2011, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volcom370Z

Less on the drivers side because with you in the car, it evens out

I do alignment with me in the car...it's the only way to do it right.

ZForce · 05-21-2011, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce

I know you have already gone for 2 alignments...but you may want to try my set up to give you more front tire grip. That is to back off the rear camber to a difference of 0.3 more postive from what you are running up front.

If I recall you are runnming:

Driver Front:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.4*

Pass Front:
Camber:-1.5
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.7*

I would suggest running the Rear camber at -1.1 drivers side and -1.2 passenger side.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber?

My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and I think I'm going to try to run around 2.5* of camber up front. I'm also looking to go with a square setup, which should help dial out understeer as well.

Why do you suggest different camber on each side?

No not the front camber but the rear. Different camber on rears based on non adjustable control arms up front. It makes the rear the 0.3 difference from the front.

So if you have up front (drivers side) -1.4 then the drivers side rear should be 0.3 difference which places it at -1.1. Same would go for the passenger side, whatever the non adjustable front is then minus 0.3 and you get your setting for the rear camber. Therefore no matter what the fronts are reading on camber the rears would be 0.3 difference on both sides on the rear.

As far as the 0.3 degrees difference goes, thats about normal for a front engine rear drive street car. The reason you need more negative camber up front....that's because the car has a front biased weight distribution (as front engine cars usually do). That means that in corners, the front is going to have more inertia than the rear, so it will fight you a bit when you are turning. That means that it will want to understeer slightly. To fight that tendency, we add a little more camber up front than in the rear.

It's only a suggestion as it appears you have a grip on the issue and a sound plan of attack to resolve it. Don't mind my yammering, I am still learning this stuff and I know you have more knowledge and experience.
So as to not throw a monkey wrench into it, I will gracefiully bow out and listen and learn.

Red__Zed · 05-30-2011, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce

No not the front camber but the rear. Different camber on rears based on non adjustable control arms up front. It makes the rear the 0.3 difference from the front.

So if you have up front (drivers side) -1.4 then the drivers side rear should be 0.3 difference which places it at -1.1. Same would go for the passenger side, whatever the non adjustable front is then minus 0.3 and you get your setting for the rear camber. Therefore no matter what the fronts are reading on camber the rears would be 0.3 difference on both sides on the rear.

As far as the 0.3 degrees difference goes, thats about normal for a front engine rear drive street car. The reason you need more negative camber up front....that's because the car has a front biased weight distribution (as front engine cars usually do). That means that in corners, the front is going to have more inertia than the rear, so it will fight you a bit when you are turning. That means that it will want to understeer slightly. To fight that tendency, we add a little more camber up front than in the rear.

It's only a suggestion as it appears you have a grip on the issue and a sound plan of attack to resolve it. Don't mind my yammering, I am still learning this stuff and I know you have more knowledge and experience.
So as to not throw a monkey wrench into it, I will gracefiully bow out and listen and learn.

That's far too upright for the front, and especially the rears. I'm thinking about running 2.1-5 out back and 2.8+ up front. I'm probably running a more aggressive setup than most though.

ZForce · 05-30-2011, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

That's far too upright for the front, and especially the rears. I'm thinking about running 2.1-5 out back and 2.8+ up front. I'm probably running a more aggressive setup than most though.

Control arms here we come! Sounds good on the camber setup, front and back. Let us know how it performs.

I am going to get another alignment done before the run on June 18. I wish I had upper control arms...but the piggy bank was busted after new springs and tires.

vpn2001 · 05-25-2011, 11:22 AM

Anyone have creaking from the rear springs?

cheshirecat · 05-26-2011, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vpn2001

Anyone have creaking from the rear springs?

Yep. For me, it's from the lower spring mount being a bit loose and moving, not from the spring itself. I'll be working on it when I install my rear camber/toe kit in the next week or so.

wheee! · 05-25-2011, 01:14 PM

Did you reuse the rubber from the OEM springs?

FricFrac · 05-26-2011, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee!

Did you reuse the rubber from the OEM springs?

I don't think the rear springs have stock rubbers - its just for the McPherson struts in the front...

ArtK · 05-26-2011, 11:18 AM

Now that I have read several posts I would like to thank all of you guinea pigs (I mean that politely = P) because I was going to buy the h&r springs n now I'm placing an order for the swift springs, so much props for your posts!! One other thought for all of you that have the swift springs, which camber and toe kit do you recommend?....

cheshirecat · 05-26-2011, 12:44 PM

I purchased the Ichiba one from ebay. FYI- from what I've seen the 370 takes the same rear kit as the 350. Strangely enough, people charge more for the "370" arms than the 350.

Whatever, I guess.

As far as the front, you should be fine. I was in spec for both camber and toe post-install. My rear camber was out too far by about a degree. The rear toe is in alignment but the bolts come with the kit, so I guess I'll go ahead and install those while I'm down there (just in case).

05-25-2011, 01:14 PM	#12 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 58 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40183	Did you reuse the rubber from the OEM springs? __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal

05-26-2011, 11:18 AM	#14 (permalink)
ArtK Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Tampa Posts: 36 Drives: 2010 370Z Black 7AT Rep Power: 15	Now that I have read several posts I would like to thank all of you guinea pigs (I mean that politely = P) because I was going to buy the h&r springs n now I'm placing an order for the swift springs, so much props for your posts!! One other thought for all of you that have the swift springs, which camber and toe kit do you recommend?.... __________________ 2010 MB Tour\|Sport\|7AT\|Ill. Kick Plates\|Coming Soon:Work Gnosis GS2 20x9.5, 20x11\|Swift Springs

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05-20-2011, 08:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
ZForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,359 Drives: 09 370Z Tour + Sport Rep Power: 22	I know you have already gone for 2 alignments...but you may want to try my set up to give you more front tire grip. That is to back off the rear camber to a difference of 0.3 more postive from what you are running up front. If I recall you are runnming: Driver Front: Camber: -1.4 Toe: xx Caster: 5.4* Pass Front: Camber:-1.5 Toe: xx Caster: 5.7* I would suggest running the Rear camber at -1.1 drivers side and -1.2 passenger side.

05-25-2011, 11:22 AM	#10 (permalink)
vpn2001 Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: PA Posts: 31 Drives: MY09PWM6 Rep Power: 17	Anyone have creaking from the rear springs?

05-26-2011, 12:44 PM	#15 (permalink)
cheshirecat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,428 Drives: N54 135i Rep Power: 293	I purchased the Ichiba one from ebay. FYI- from what I've seen the 370 takes the same rear kit as the 350. Strangely enough, people charge more for the "370" arms than the 350. Whatever, I guess. As far as the front, you should be fine. I was in spec for both camber and toe post-install. My rear camber was out too far by about a degree. The rear toe is in alignment but the bolts come with the kit, so I guess I'll go ahead and install those while I'm down there (just in case).